KeNelson03

Hey has anyone notice the new bevel washers in the diff that comes with the graphite plus. I've been running my car for 2 months and haven't rebuilt my diffs once. They still feel perfect and are almost like a 1/12th scale diff. They don't slip at all either. Almost everyone else at my track is running tc3's and are rebuilding their diffs every run. And that might have something to do with why i am the track record holder aswell.

ChadK

Kenny-Those are the bevel washers that were originally for the monster diff in the gas truck. I have been using them for quite awhile, the other thing that makes a diff last a long time is to use a better thrust bearing.

Chad

taybelZ

just wondering, how do you find the chassis.
I"m thinking of buying one (graphite +)... and to be honest i'm not the best of drivers... the chassis looks weak esp with the holes which make it look more fragile. SHould i just get the xxx-s regular instead.

Also if a FT tc3 and xxx-s g+ was the same price which one would you be opting' for.

petzl

I just bought a used xxxs with a graphite chassis. I am new to the sport and this car was a HUGE improvement over the HPI Sprint I was driving. The chassis seem strong enough. I did find a hairline crack about halfway up the chassis on the batt side. There was CA glue on it so it was there from the prior owner. I get marshalled pretty regularly though and it seems to stand up to the abuse.

JeffC

iTrader: (5)

taybelz, I don't see how you'd ever break the chassis itself. I've been running the car for about 6 weeks now, I've cracked 1 front and 1 rear arm (didn't actually break off, just cracked) but that can't be blamed on the car. I'd assume the graphite + is at least as strong as the 'old' car. It's not quite as bulletproof as my XRays, but the Losi is much much faster

Kraig

iTrader: (81)

Looking at the chassis the new one is cut out differently in areas where the other one was prone to break. I bought mine used and it was cracked in the right rear corner of the battery slot. I eventually replaced it and the new one that I used had a different mold in the battery slots. It has held up well with my trips to the walls.

Simon K

John told me they were shipped 2 weeks ago today(thursday). I was hoping to have mine by the weekend but that's looking doubtful.

Didn't know you had an SP, I sold mine up there a while back(you may have seen a white 300M Chrysler shell on it). Guys name was Hayden I think, who bought it.

rayhuang

iTrader: (5)

The G+ builds beautifully. I took my time and did it right-polished everything, trimmed this and that, ran drill bits through every hole-used a tap and the cutting screw in every threaded hole, removed some bearing seals, made sure nothing binding and still had it built in under 5 hours!!! Nice Kit!!!

I did have tow issue and thats defective ballstuds that will need to be replaced-but thats pretty normal to find some bad hardware in a kit. SO not upset about that at all.

And I also had the problem with the balls on the shocks being so tight!! I ran a drill bit through them and one I simply had to hold the ball with a pair of pliers and thread the screw into it-then snap it into the ballcup.

harris

I have found in a local shop from Team losi the thrust balls not seperate with the plates as it is in the kit but, they are connected to each other through a metallic nest (from XX). With this you dont have to worry for the balls from the thrust to fall when your are trying to put the screw with the thrust in the halve.
The problem is that its an old part from losi and i cannot find it anywhere. The Part no. is A-3071.

Cain

iTrader: (294)

I have seen this at my LHS, would this be ok to use?

harris

I am using it Cain and it is very easy to install.... but the problem is that i cannot find it anywhere...

dw

The reason for using a thrust race without a cage is that it can take more load. This is because this type of thrust race uses bigger or more balls (not sure which in losis case) than the equivalent caged thrust race so the load is carried over a larger area.
If you use a thrust race with a cage it will wear out quicker.
However a thrust race with a cage should be freer as the frictional losses between balls and cage are less than when the balls rub against each other.

tufferwilde

Rayhuang -
I have noticed that every set of aluminum balls that I buy for my Losi's has the exact same problem - there is one redeeming factor to this problem - when you take the screws off to remove the shocks - you never have to look for them!!

Regarding the caged thrust bearing -
Yes, this can be used on our kits... but as DW stated, the bearing cannot take as great of a load in comparison to the standard thrust compliment. In an answer to dw's comment on the number of balls, the "build yourself" thrust set does in fact include more balls than that of the caged bearing. In my opinion, the caged bearing isn't as smooth and more prone to failure than that standard style.

tufferwilde

Ok, so I am planning to try out the spool this weekend on carpet - running mod TC (9x2 Sonic2) In any case, has anyone tried the spool setup yet? As I understand it, there should be more steering, but the lack of a diff action should mean that the car will need to be "muscled" through the corner!

Are you guys building the spool with the plactic or steel outdrives??

Any setup changes that should be made to the car while running the spool??

OUT!

Wilde

ChristopherKee

iTrader: (28)

I purchased a handfull a while ago from Horizon. Figure I'll just go back to old school thrust when they run out.