Losi XXX-S

Old 06-04-2002, 02:13 AM
  #2881  
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Originally posted by STLNLST
This topic took a turn for the worse. I'll check back in on this thread in a couple of days. I'm staying out of this one. Sorry I couldn't have been more help
Why are you staying out MR. R? Of all people I would expect to read some sound suggestions from you.
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Old 06-04-2002, 04:03 AM
  #2882  
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I think that Ausracer has got the right idea on the wheell nuts and axle.
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Old 06-04-2002, 05:04 AM
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Originally posted by Sydewynder


Why are you staying out MR. R? Of all people I would expect to read some sound suggestions from you.
Anything that I would suggest has already been said and to be honest....I don't have a clue as to what could be the problem in this case. No one out here has had that problem.
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Old 06-04-2002, 05:05 AM
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Originally posted by Doug Gaut
STLNLST, thanks for the setup. It worked well this weekend. TQ'd stock class and qualified 2nd in mod. I appreciate your help!!
Congrats on both of your runs. I'm going back to my oneway this weekend.
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Old 06-04-2002, 07:45 AM
  #2885  
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Cain,

less droop would mean tightening the screws and more droop loosening them ....
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Old 06-04-2002, 01:25 PM
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Thanks for the advice. I am running losi's fear body that comes with the kit and I am looking into picking up maybe a wider firmer body, say 200mm. Any suggestions on a body like that with a good amount of rear down force?
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Old 06-04-2002, 01:38 PM
  #2887  
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Cain-I would stick with a standard 190mm body, a 200mm one will be too wide and may look goofy. For bodies you should stay with the tried and proven Stratus, ant one from Protoform, Trinity(Andys),HPI, or Fewer all work great. Since you are starting out with the car run one of these as it is what most people run and it takes out 1 variable when comparing performance.

On the front C-block and rear carrier breakage issue. The axle extending out past the wheel nut and tire may be 1 reason some people are having problems and others are not. I run my car with ASC wheel hexes which brings the car out to 190mm and makes it so there is little or no extra axle sticking out to catch on the lane barriers. Just a thought.

Chad
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Old 06-04-2002, 01:55 PM
  #2888  
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Chad has a valid point on the axle theory. The stock axles are actually quite long and prone to snaging on pipe joins or wood barriers. I've been using the Mip Aluminum CVDs, that have slightly shorter axles, combined with the ASC hex adapters(The threads don't stick out pass the wheel nut as much). The shorter axles and associated hex adapters may explain why I haven't broken as much as some people.

Stick with the protoform status, that body is suppose to be very well balanced handling wise. I tend to stay away from Andy's and HPI bodies because of their lexan mix. The HPI and Andy's bodies tend to be brittle and crack very easy. I have a few protoform bodies that have lasted 6+ months. Oh yeah, stick with 190mm, the 200mm will look odd on an electric touring chassis. I should know, when I first started out in R/C I bought a 200mm McLaren body.
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Old 06-04-2002, 02:14 PM
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Ok, So what are the part numbers that I need for the hex adapters by team Associated? Should I stick with stock material or get something metal based? About how much do they run? Do I need them for the front and rear?

I know dumb questions I just want to make sure I have all the info when I go to the hobby shop and just say give me A, B, and C. I figure with the nerf wings I am going to pick up and the new bumper I have, matched with this hex trick i should be A-ok!

Thanks all.
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Old 06-04-2002, 02:27 PM
  #2890  
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Cain

You're not trying to use the droop screws to adjust your ride height, are you? When you mention that it makes it lower in the rear, it makes me think that is what you are doing. That is bad since it doesn't allow the suspension to operate correctly. Maybe I misunderstood you.
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Old 06-04-2002, 02:28 PM
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Nerf wings? The XXX-S chassis is pretty wide, not sure where those nerf wings will go. Chances are, those nerf wings will push the chassis width passed legal dimensions.

You can use either the graphite ASC hex adapters or be like David Spashett and use the ASC aluminum versions. I really don't think aluminum is needed, plus it would probably be heavier than the graphite. I think the graphite versions are 6-10 bucks. Oh yeah, run the adpters front and back.
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Old 06-04-2002, 02:53 PM
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Originally posted by STLNLST


Anything that I would suggest has already been said and to be honest....I don't have a clue as to what could be the problem in this case. No one out here has had that problem.
Maybe I should drive up to Sac and run with you guys.
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Old 06-04-2002, 03:04 PM
  #2893  
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Here in Europe not all racers use the Stratus body. Most racers fine tune the handling with the body selection. We like the Protoform body Vauxhall, BMW, Volvo, M300 and Alfa. For technical tight tracks the Alfa is the best, gives a bit more steering. The BMW works well on medium tracks, it stabilizes the rear, and for the very high speed open tracks the M300 gives more top speed. The Vauxhall and the Volvo works the same like the Stratus but provides a bit more downforce. Anyway you can tune the body by changing the height of the wing. For slower tracks put spacers below the wing to rise it until it is level with the top of the body.
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Old 06-04-2002, 03:15 PM
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The PF Vauxhall body tends to push a bit, so it is great with a front one-way.
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Old 06-04-2002, 05:37 PM
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Had the car for 3 months or so and have broken only one hub carrier because of driver error. I bought the Bud's bumper, but have yet to install it because I don't find myself breaking parts. I've actually went stiffer by installing the MF foam bumper and a RatZas carbon fiber brace. This car is now very solid up front and feels great. I use the red wheel nuts on backwards and the axles do not extend out past the nuts. I've yet to break anything by brushing up against the barriers...even at full speed.

I ran the Kinwald high bite set-up listed in the recent RC CAR magazine the other night, and it was dialed. The only exception was the I ran high roll center in the front and no sway bars. Everything else was exactly as called out.

Anyone looking for some nice carbon fiber parts including shock towers which will allow for twice as many camber locations, go to www.ratzas.net
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