Losi XXX-S

Old 02-13-2002, 07:50 AM
  #1891  
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kansasracer: Man, I'm still picking lint out of my cars from the first visit! The lint even destroyed one of the hub bearings on my Schumacher! So with the warm weather approaching, I doubt that I will make it out there again. I guess I'm just an outdoors type of racer.
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Old 02-13-2002, 09:57 AM
  #1892  
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Once I pulled out a 2 inch long thread from a bearing after a weekend of racing. That's not fast. LOL
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Old 02-13-2002, 08:36 PM
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Does anyone have a problem with their stock shocks leaking? Mine are very slightly.

Also, what's a good standard droop to run at? I'm currently at 2mm in the front and 3mm in the back.

Thanks!
Jits
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Old 02-13-2002, 08:50 PM
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Who makes light weight screw set for XXX-S ?
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Old 02-13-2002, 09:02 PM
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Originally posted by JitsuGuy
Does anyone have a problem with their stock shocks leaking? Mine are very slightly.

Also, what's a good standard droop to run at? I'm currently at 2mm in the front and 3mm in the back.

Thanks!
Jits
Jits,

Use the RPM Shock wrench for the shocks. The shocks need to be snug.

As for the droop, depends on what the setup is, but start with the droop of 2 front and 4 rear.
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Old 02-13-2002, 09:03 PM
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Originally posted by over gear
Who makes light weight screw set for XXX-S ?
You can check with Fastener Express or Niftech.
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Old 02-14-2002, 05:28 PM
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I've read that Niftech has some aluminum CVD's for the XXX-S. But I can't seem to find them. Is this true, or does anyone else know of an online supplier for aluminum CVD's. I need them for Stock class. I also heard Yokomo CVD's might work. Any experience with this? Thanks..

Jimmy Mac
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Old 02-14-2002, 05:44 PM
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Also I want to post about the MF rear hubs I bought. Seemed okay but very weak. I got hacked on the rearend and paid no mind to it. When I got back to the pits after my marshalling duties, I noticed my right rear end suddenly had -8 camber! Yikes, I think they made them alittle weak. I noticed the "Blue" rear hubs sold in UK are a bit beefier. I dunno, it was my first MF upgrade, and more than likely my last. But just wanted to give my 2 for those who might be interested in them.

Jimmy Mac
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Old 02-14-2002, 05:49 PM
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Originally posted by KilRuf
I've read that Niftech has some aluminum CVD's for the XXX-S. But I can't seem to find them. Is this true, or does anyone else know of an online supplier for aluminum CVD's. I need them for Stock class. I also heard Yokomo CVD's might work. Any experience with this? Thanks..

Jimmy Mac
I would stick to the Losi AluminumCVDs.
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Old 02-14-2002, 06:01 PM
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All,

Yes Niftech does have aluminum CVD's. I saw them at Snowbirds and talked with Ray and Julie. The CVD's are very smooth and will not bind. Unfortunitly, I wanted to purchase the pair the next day and my wife called and was in labor, so I had to fly home. Once home I called from BWI and the doctor sent her home, false labor.

Once Ray and Julie get back I will have a set.





Originally posted by KilRuf
I've read that Niftech has some aluminum CVD's for the XXX-S. But I can't seem to find them. Is this true, or does anyone else know of an online supplier for aluminum CVD's. I need them for Stock class. I also heard Yokomo CVD's might work. Any experience with this? Thanks..

Jimmy Mac
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Old 02-14-2002, 06:19 PM
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Originally posted by KilRuf
Also I want to post about the MF rear hubs I bought. Seemed okay but very weak. I got hacked on the rearend and paid no mind to it. When I got back to the pits after my marshalling duties, I noticed my right rear end suddenly had -8 camber! Yikes, I think they made them alittle weak. I noticed the "Blue" rear hubs sold in UK are a bit beefier. I dunno, it was my first MF upgrade, and more than likely my last. But just wanted to give my 2 for those who might be interested in them.

Jimmy Mac
That could pretty much happen with any aluminum part. Sterring knuckles, rear hub carriers, and arms are a no no in aluminum. It's better to break than to bend.
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Old 02-15-2002, 04:22 AM
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KILRUF,

I WAS THERE AT THE SNOWBIRD'S TOO. I SAW NIFTECH'S PRODUCTS, AND THEY ARE VERY, VERY NICE. BUT THEY ARE ALSO VERY, VERY, VERY EXPENSIVE. I ALMOST FELL OVER WHEN HE TOLD ME THE PRICE FOR THE COMPLETE SET. IF PRICE IS NOT AN ISSUE THEN GET NIFTECH'S. ANOTHER DOWN FALL IS THEY DON'T HAVE A ONE-WAY DIFF. THE GUY TOLD ME IF I RUN THEIR COMPLETE SET, THEN I WON'T NEED A ONE-WAY. BUT, WHEN I PUT MY ONE-WAY IN MY CAR, I FELT A BIG IMPROVEMENT IN CORNERSPEED. I WILL NOT GO BACK TO RUNNING A STANDARD DIFF ON CARPET. IF YOU'RE LOOKING FOR SPEED, I WOULD INVEST IN BATTERIES, MOTORS, AND TIRES.
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Old 02-15-2002, 05:45 AM
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Originally posted by STLNLST

That could pretty much happen with any aluminum part. Sterring knuckles, rear hub carriers, and arms are a no no in aluminum. It
's better to break than to bend.

I think it's better to bend than break.At least you can finish the race.I rather finish the race rather than spend my time working on something I just worked on the nite before.
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Old 02-15-2002, 06:37 AM
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You will bend it and not know it...Then you'll spend hours on setup only to find out that was the issue....


Plus the Alum. wears out in strange ways a lot of the time...
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Old 02-15-2002, 07:40 AM
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I still rather say"I placed 4th,5th,or 6th in the A main".Rather than say "Ahh,I was in the A main".Then I could go home and deal wit set up on my car to get ready for the next spanking I'll be giving.
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