Darkseid

iTrader: (9)

kansasracer: Man, I'm still picking lint out of my cars from the first visit! The lint even destroyed one of the hub bearings on my Schumacher! So with the warm weather approaching, I doubt that I will make it out there again. I guess I'm just an outdoors type of racer.

Jared Kirkwood

Once I pulled out a 2 inch long thread from a bearing after a weekend of racing. That's not fast. LOL

JitsuGuy

Does anyone have a problem with their stock shocks leaking? Mine are very slightly.

Also, what's a good standard droop to run at? I'm currently at 2mm in the front and 3mm in the back.

Thanks!
Jits

over gear

iTrader: (16)

Who makes light weight screw set for XXX-S ?

MDawson

iTrader: (27)

Jits,

Use the RPM Shock wrench for the shocks. The shocks need to be snug.

As for the droop, depends on what the setup is, but start with the droop of 2 front and 4 rear.

MDawson

iTrader: (27)

You can check with Fastener Express or Niftech.

JimmyMac

iTrader: (2)

I've read that Niftech has some aluminum CVD's for the XXX-S. But I can't seem to find them. Is this true, or does anyone else know of an online supplier for aluminum CVD's. I need them for Stock class. I also heard Yokomo CVD's might work. Any experience with this? Thanks..

Jimmy Mac

JimmyMac

iTrader: (2)

Also I want to post about the MF rear hubs I bought. Seemed okay but very weak. I got hacked on the rearend and paid no mind to it. When I got back to the pits after my marshalling duties, I noticed my right rear end suddenly had -8° camber! Yikes, I think they made them alittle weak. I noticed the "Blue" rear hubs sold in UK are a bit beefier. I dunno, it was my first MF upgrade, and more than likely my last. But just wanted to give my 2¢ for those who might be interested in them.

Jimmy Mac

MDawson

iTrader: (27)

I would stick to the Losi AluminumCVDs.

nitrorcfan

All,

Yes Niftech does have aluminum CVD's. I saw them at Snowbirds and talked with Ray and Julie. The CVD's are very smooth and will not bind. Unfortunitly, I wanted to purchase the pair the next day and my wife called and was in labor, so I had to fly home. Once home I called from BWI and the doctor sent her home, false labor.

Once Ray and Julie get back I will have a set.

STLNLST

iTrader: (30)

That could pretty much happen with any aluminum part. Sterring knuckles, rear hub carriers, and arms are a no no in aluminum. It's better to break than to bend.

XER987

iTrader: (11)

KILRUF,

I WAS THERE AT THE SNOWBIRD'S TOO. I SAW NIFTECH'S PRODUCTS, AND THEY ARE VERY, VERY NICE. BUT THEY ARE ALSO VERY, VERY, VERY EXPENSIVE. I ALMOST FELL OVER WHEN HE TOLD ME THE PRICE FOR THE COMPLETE SET. IF PRICE IS NOT AN ISSUE THEN GET NIFTECH'S. ANOTHER DOWN FALL IS THEY DON'T HAVE A ONE-WAY DIFF. THE GUY TOLD ME IF I RUN THEIR COMPLETE SET, THEN I WON'T NEED A ONE-WAY. BUT, WHEN I PUT MY ONE-WAY IN MY CAR, I FELT A BIG IMPROVEMENT IN CORNERSPEED. I WILL NOT GO BACK TO RUNNING A STANDARD DIFF ON CARPET. IF YOU'RE LOOKING FOR SPEED, I WOULD INVEST IN BATTERIES, MOTORS, AND TIRES.

littledog

I think it's better to bend than break.At least you can finish the race.I rather finish the race rather than spend my time working on something I just worked on the nite before.

Tres

iTrader: (14)

You will bend it and not know it...Then you'll spend hours on setup only to find out that was the issue....


Plus the Alum. wears out in strange ways a lot of the time...

littledog

I still rather say"I placed 4th,5th,or 6th in the A main".Rather than say "Ahh,I was in the A main".Then I could go home and deal wit set up on my car to get ready for the next spanking I'll be giving.