Matt M.

iTrader: (26)

ok...here are the setups...

todd hodge

front:

0 toe high roll center
ride hight 5mm droop 3
camber -1 pivot f-0
o kick one way
4 caster 3 washers under spindle ball stud
no sway bar shock location 2
shocks, camber hole2
80wt oil
56 pistons
blue spring
.100 limiter out side

rear:
2.5 rear toe per side(half deg carriers on the right way)
5mm ride hight
camber -1
shocks:
80 wt oil
54 piston
spring silver
low roll center
droop 5mm
pivot 2r
arm spacing fwd
shock pos 2-outside
camber 3-b

gearing, stock gm3-128-33
mod 10-2 128-25

Matt M.

iTrader: (26)

bks setup
front
toe in 1 deg
rde hight 5 mm
o kick
4 caster
shocks
70 wt oil
56 piston
purple spring
.100 limiter outside
arm spacing middle
one way
low roll center
droop 9mm
shock location 1 on tower
camber link 2
.o6 under spindle ball stud

rear
stock toe
5mm ride hight
camber -.5
nosway bar
rear shocks
50wt
56 piston
silver springs
.120 spacer outside
low roll center
droop 9mm down
pivot 2-r
shoc location 2-outside
camber link 3-b

Matt M.

iTrader: (26)

pauls setup...

no toe
5mm ride hight
0 kick
4 caster
sway bar .072
oneway
front shocks
70 wt oil
54 piston
green sprng
1mm inside, 2mm outide

droop, no spring play at ride hight
pivot 0f

camber link
2
shock location 3

rear

toe 1/2 deg on the right sides
5mm ride hight
camber -2
rear shocks
70 wt oil
54 piston
blue spring
1mm inside, 2mm outside
droop no spring play t ride hight
pivot 0r
arm middle
shock placement
2-inside
camber link 1-b

futureal

YokGuy: Yea, I thought about modding the pieces myself but even though I'm somewhat handy with a Dremel, I still figured I would just wait for the real stuff to come. Nothing quite like precision.

In addition to the low-roll blocks, you can add washers under the kingpin (like Hodge did, see the setup above) to further lower the roll center (by changing the angle that the upper pivot meets the chassis; a steeper angle means a lower roll center). I have a single washer under mine, along with the low roll blocks.

mr.losi: Was Paul not running the one-way? I figured he would be for sure. His car was having major problems though, I still can't believe he did as well as he did with it. If he had been driving Kinwald's car, I bet he wins mod. He needs to get on a regimen of less Golden Tee and more pit work.

Matt M.

iTrader: (26)

like i said before....pauls car was fine...he needed the yok tires.....paul was the fastest guy on sorex....the two before him had the yoks....kinwalds car looked smooth like that cause kinwald was driving it....i am actually going to put pauls setup in my mod car, cause it was the fastest.....

newracer

I have graphite low roll center blocks

BHenderson

iTrader: (3)

Mr Losi

what do you mean on paul's set up

How do you measure that? Just Curious what you meant by that

ChadK

Porsche-It means that after you have the ride height set you just tighten the droop screw enough to take out the free play inbetweenthe spring and the spring coller. I usually make sure that both sides of the car are equal. Hope this helps.

Chad

JitsuGuy

Dang, I just got a Losi XXX-S... Am I going to need all these parts to be competitive at my local track? Also, what tools do you all use to measure toe in and toe out and ride height?

Also, I'm assuming the Eclipse body that came with the XXX-S is legal even though it's not a sedan?

Thanks,
Jits

Trips

iTrader: (16)

The body that comes in the XXX-S kit isn't an Eclipse, it's called a "Stratus-Fear", it's a two door Stratus Coupe. It's not ROAR legal, but most club races don't seem to care.

As far as what you'll need to be competitive, the car can win races right out of the box. It's a lot more convenient having threaded body shocks tho, much easier than those collars.

I use a Yokomo combination ride-height/droop gauge for ride height and droop, and an RPM camber gauge for camber. I set toe in by eyeball (not the most precise method, but it seems to work for me)

Speaking of toe-in, I've noticed that every XXX-S I've looked at appears to have about a half degree more toe in on the left rear than the right. I put my car on a HUDY setup system which confirmed that mine does indeed have about a half degree more toe in on the left rear.

Has anyone else noticed this? When I called Losi they told me it was jsut an optical illusion, but if that's true, why do the HUDY setup gauges also show it?

Trips

chownr

Hey guys a quick question. A few weeks ago when I was in the middle of a c-block and hub carrier breaking frenzy (I now have the BRP wide bumper and breakages are a thing of the past!!) I bent the standard CVDs that came with the kit. I then bought the Losi Aluminium CVDs because they are larger in diameter which I thought would reduce the chance of buckling. However this week at my local track the joining pin between the dog-bone and the axle literally pulled out of the dog bone and I didnt even hit anything. On closer inspection I took the other one out to see if that was showing signs of wear and sure enough it was starting to show early signs of local fatigue. Looking closely I would say that the distance between the pin hole and the end of the dog bone is too slender and that Losi have made a design error for this type of CVD. I am going to return my dog bones to my LHS because Ive only been running these CVDs for two to three weeks. Has any one else experienced this type of failure?

futureal

Trips: I have noticed the same thing on my car, though I've never put it on a setup board to check. Right now I'm running the 1 degree blocks reversed (for 2 degrees total, 1 on each side) of rear toe-in. The problem is less pronounced but it's definitely still there. Very strange.

TeeJay

Trips:
I've noticed it too. I broke the left rear hub after a couple of weeks(why do race organizers put a hairpin after the mainstraight facing a concreet wall???), after I replaced it I noticed that left rear appeared to have a different toe angle. But I couldn't feel anything funny on the track though, so I thought it had to be an optical illusion(as Losi said).

Do anyone know how to drop som weight from the chassis???? Except for exchange it with the Graphite upgrades???? The graphite things are quite expensive where I live(Sweden, the prices are aprox 2x the US prices) so I was looking for a way to get rid of some weight without byuing more parts. Have a look at Kindwals XXX-S, they took away A LOT of material on that baby car..... I wonder if the stock parts starts to flex if I take out my Dremel and starts grinding on the chassis.

Trips

iTrader: (16)

That's the funny thing, as wrong as the rear toe looks to me, the car runs great, it drives as if it's perfectly the same from side to side.

Trips

Darkseid

iTrader: (9)

Trips: I have noticed that in the past when I have run cars that are supposed to have fixed rear toe-in. When I had my Yokomo TCPro, it never seemed to have the same rear toe on both sides. I always figured it was just an illusion, until now. Its good to know you put your Losi on the Hudy to see for sure. So now I don't feel like I was crazy when I looked at my Yokomo. But, just as with you guys' Losi, the apparent difference in rear toe, never effected the car on the track. Go figure!

Now I have a Corally and a Schumacher. Two cars that I am certain have the same rear toe.