Losi XXX-S

Old 01-20-2002, 11:39 PM
  #1666  
Tech Master
 
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: Norman AR.
Posts: 1,954
Default

RacerTex, shorting the front camber link will increase the steering reaction. A shorter link is like running the low roll center plates. The car isn't gonna roll as much as it will with longer links. Also try putting enough washers under the front ball stud in the spindle carrier while making enough clearance for your wheel. Angling the camber link will also take away body roll in the front which in turn will increase the steering reaction or make the car more aggressive.
ZER01 is offline  
Old 01-21-2002, 12:15 AM
  #1667  
Tech Master
 
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: Norman AR.
Posts: 1,954
Default

Originally posted by littledog
My buddy proud tells me that there is a post in here bout how much shock shaft to cut off,but I really don't feel like going though all 56 pages of this forum to find it.If any one knows what I'm talking bout,give me a shout or post please. AIGHT!!

Littledog, cut .080" off the stock shock shaft. You can determine that by measuring the length of the shaft before you cut it, subtract .080" from it and thats the length you want them to be. After that, taper the sides of the threads on the end of the shaft and thread that shock ball end all the way onto the shaft untill it stops. Make sure you're in the original threads on the shock ball end. Now assemble the shock together just like they were but with no oil in it. Put the shock on the car and measure your droop. It'll probally say -1 to 0 on the droop gauge. You want to run 2 to 3 for our track. Now take the shock back off, disassemble it and add some inside limiters inbetween the piston and the shock cartridge. I added a .126" limiter. This modification gives me a droop setting of 2 and I have ride height adjustment anywhere from 3mm to 8mm. Be sure both shafts are the same size before you thread the shock ball ends onto the shafts after you cut them.
ZER01 is offline  
Old 01-21-2002, 12:23 AM
  #1668  
Tech Master
 
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: Norman AR.
Posts: 1,954
Default

RacerTex, also try experimenting with the new green springs(inbetween the blue and purple) and the purple's.
ZER01 is offline  
Old 01-21-2002, 12:53 AM
  #1669  
Tech Master
 
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: Norman AR.
Posts: 1,954
Default

RacerTex, you might want to make a sway bar for the front also. This is a simple step you can make to the car without destabilising the car's current setup. Try this first.
ZER01 is offline  
Old 01-21-2002, 07:03 AM
  #1670  
Tech Apprentice
 
RacerTex's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Austin, Texas
Posts: 77
Default

Hey proudwinner, Thanks for all the tips. I'll be experimenting with camber links and angles in my next testing session. I'll also get the shop to make some sway bars for me. I'll have to order the green springs though. Oh well, I have enough settings to test already. Thanks again.
RacerTex is offline  
Old 01-21-2002, 11:54 AM
  #1671  
Tech Rookie
 
ncrego's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: Melbourne, FL
Posts: 10
Wink Parts interchange?

I've read a couple of messages in various places that have said that TC3 arms and hubs are interchangable between TC3 and the XXX-S. Well, I'm selling my TC3 and getting a XXX-s, and I have a good stock of TC3 parts, and I'm wondering what parts I should hold on to for Emergency spares.
ncrego is offline  
Old 01-21-2002, 12:52 PM
  #1672  
Tech Apprentice
 
RacerTex's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Austin, Texas
Posts: 77
Default

ncrego, I've only found the caster blocks to be interchangeable. To be honest, I haven't tried to run with the front hubs. The rear hubs won't work. I've looked into that. If you get the BRP front bumber, you won't have to worry too much about the front end so for spares, just buy a pack or two of rear hubs and you're set.
RacerTex is offline  
Old 01-21-2002, 04:28 PM
  #1673  
Tech Master
 
newracer's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: Timnath, Colorado
Posts: 1,523
Default

proudwinner

what shock collars are those? part#? do they move at all while running?
newracer is offline  
Old 01-21-2002, 04:41 PM
  #1674  
Tech Master
 
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: Norman AR.
Posts: 1,954
Default

Newracer, those are the Team Trinity shock collars; Part Number: TTK3048
LOSI THREADED SHOCK COLLARS, blue aluminum (4)/$6.95. As far as them moving, these baddaddys will not move once set. They carry an o-ring inside the collar which gives superior holding power to the shock body. They will not move, but be sure to lube the o-ring before installation. I used team associated's green slime since it's a lube formulated for rubber and plastic parts. Stormer hobbies has those collars in-stock as we speak. They are listed in the Kinwald listings. Good luck and happy racing!
ZER01 is offline  
Old 01-21-2002, 10:13 PM
  #1675  
Tech Master
 
newracer's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: Timnath, Colorado
Posts: 1,523
Default

thanks I picked up some tonight at my LHS.
newracer is offline  
Old 01-22-2002, 09:22 PM
  #1676  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (8)
 
yodace's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: Caleb
Posts: 2,577
Trader Rating: 8 (100%+)
Default

Does the graphite chassis handle any different then the stock chassis?
yodace is offline  
Old 01-23-2002, 09:23 AM
  #1677  
Tech Apprentice
 
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Austin, TX
Posts: 71
Default Losi PN#9650

All, I just got the full graphite kit for my Losi XXX-S and noticed that the kit only has the graphite 0 degree castor blocks while the pictures on Losi's site show two sets of blocks, I guess 0 and 4. Does it come with one set or two?

Also, who has a carpet setup for rubber tires with HRC?
YokGuy is offline  
Old 01-23-2002, 09:27 AM
  #1678  
Tech Apprentice
 
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: Buffalo, NY
Posts: 81
Default

Originally posted by yodace
Does the graphite chassis handle any different then the stock chassis?
I ran the stock chassis for a few weeks. Then I added the Graphite chassis, I didn't notice any handling difference. But my experience is limited compared to most on this site.
WHITESTER is offline  
Old 01-23-2002, 12:51 PM
  #1679  
Tech Adept
iTrader: (11)
 
XER987's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: Loxahatchee, FL
Posts: 247
Trader Rating: 11 (100%+)
Default

DOES ANYBODY ELSE HEAR THE CLICKING OR "CHATTERING" COME FROM THE FRONT END OF THEIR CAR? I KNOW THE BELT SKIPS UNDER HARD BRAKING, THAT'S NOT WHAT IT IS. I MOSTLY HEAR IT AS THE CAR EXITS TURNS. IS IT THE DIFFS OR IS IT THE MIP'S RATTLING AROUND? IS THERE SOMETHING WRONG OR IS IT NORMAL?
XER987 is offline  
Old 01-23-2002, 03:45 PM
  #1680  
Company Representative
iTrader: (14)
 
Tres's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: WWW.TNT-FX.COM
Posts: 3,403
Trader Rating: 14 (100%+)
Default

XER987: yes, it's from the CVD's......

If you take and limit the steering throw a little, that will go away...

Put the car on a stand, move the wheels while giving a little throtle....

You will need to set your end points if your radio has them...

Hope this helps......
Tres is offline  

Thread Tools
Search this Thread

Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service - Do Not Sell My Personal Information -

Copyright 2018 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.