Go Back  R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric On-Road
Thoughts on the Yokomo SD vehicles >

Thoughts on the Yokomo SD vehicles

Thoughts on the Yokomo SD vehicles

Old 05-05-2004, 05:49 AM
  #1  
Tech Legend
Thread Starter
iTrader: (268)
 
Cain's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2002
Location: West Fargo, North Dakota
Posts: 32,637
Trader Rating: 268 (100%+)
Default Thoughts on the Yokomo SD vehicles

I am looking into trying one of these out and see how it runs as I like some of the features it has for ease of access to the differentials ( I do like my BMI TC3 however )

What are you guys finding as far as durability of this vehicle?

Also, I heard that it doesn't use standard allen head screws, is this true?

Finally, is the primary diference between the graphite chassis SD and the CGM just the chassis or is there more than that?
Cain is offline  
Old 05-05-2004, 06:07 AM
  #2  
Tech Master
 
johnbull's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Malta. G.C.
Posts: 1,762
Default

Cain.

You will find all the info you need, and alotmore in hundreds of pages in the Yoke SD thread.

All screws on the SD are 3mm. All heads are the same 2mm hex.

Regards

Joe from sunny Malta.
johnbull is offline  
Old 05-05-2004, 06:36 AM
  #3  
Tech Fanatic
 
kt racing's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: va
Posts: 848
Default

cain,
The yoko uses metric screws instead of standard. The car is very smooth. The are very durable. I don't break that much on the car. The a arms are interchangeable on all 4 corners too. so that is a plus. The cgm is a stiffer chassis and the servo and shock towers and motor mount is different. Hope that helps
kt racing is offline  
Old 05-05-2004, 06:36 AM
  #4  
Tech Legend
Thread Starter
iTrader: (268)
 
Cain's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2002
Location: West Fargo, North Dakota
Posts: 32,637
Trader Rating: 268 (100%+)
Default

thats the problem, don't want to traverse hundreds of pages to get three questions answered.

So, I got one question answered, just need two more:

1. Durability of the vehicle

2. Primary difference between CGM and SD?

Thanks.
Cain is offline  
Old 05-05-2004, 06:53 AM
  #5  
Tech Fanatic
 
SalvadoriRacing's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Brazil, Sao Paulo
Posts: 928
Default

i think the cgm is a stiffer chassi......better on carpet racing.....
SalvadoriRacing is offline  
Old 05-05-2004, 07:02 AM
  #6  
Tech Legend
Thread Starter
iTrader: (268)
 
Cain's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2002
Location: West Fargo, North Dakota
Posts: 32,637
Trader Rating: 268 (100%+)
Default

thanks! Was curious as I saw that the CGM chassis is more than the SD, figured it would be the other way around.
Cain is offline  
Old 05-05-2004, 07:21 AM
  #7  
Tech Fanatic
 
Tommy Bergfeldt's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Sweden
Posts: 979
Default

Metric screws not regular?
It's used everywhere in he owrld besides the USA so don't complain about the metric being "unnormal"
My thoughts about the SD is that it's wonderful! Easy to wrench on a very durable for it's price. The only things i've broken is Diff gears and some A-Arms, in one winter season...
Tommy Bergfeldt is offline  
Old 05-05-2004, 07:25 AM
  #8  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (18)
 
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: OC
Posts: 2,143
Trader Rating: 18 (100%+)
Default

I've been hammering on mine during testing and I've broken only one arm - my fault. Everything is holding up well.
Sorcerer001 is offline  
Old 05-05-2004, 08:52 AM
  #9  
Tech Master
iTrader: (35)
 
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: MD
Posts: 1,499
Trader Rating: 35 (100%+)
Default

I've been running the SD-Black for the past 4 weeks since the season began. After gettting it adjusted for my driving style, I love the way that it handles. I have broken 2 arms, bent one inner front hinge pin and broke the front shock tower.

I find it very easy to work on. Removing the diffs is a breeze. Someone else mentioned the fact that the A arms are all the same.

I considered the CGM, but honestly I don't think that having that chassis will make me any faster, besides it wasn't available when I bought my SD.
Geppetto is offline  
Old 05-05-2004, 12:36 PM
  #10  
Tech Addict
iTrader: (1)
 
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: princeton, NJ and wall street, NYC
Posts: 514
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

the Durability of yoke are good .
but there are few thing you have to look out for.
tweak chassis, and weak arms. i broke the 2 front
a-arms and shock tower last weeken when i clip
the side walk on the street.
so keep your a-arm stocks up.

or like me. try to become a better driver and avoid the crash when showing off your toys.
aoizip is offline  
Old 05-05-2004, 08:51 PM
  #11  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (2)
 
JimmyMac's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: NC
Posts: 4,447
Trader Rating: 2 (100%+)
Default

CGM is a SD, just different chassis. Maybe you are refering to SSG or Black. Anyways CGM is $10 cheaper than the SSG and/or Black chassis at SpeedtechRC. Plus the CGM is all graphite while the SSG and Black is plastic composite with a graphite "deck" chassis.

The car is durable like every other car out there. Mainly worry about A-arms. Yokomo is coming out with new arms that are not interchangable from front to rear. Basically the rears are more beefier.

Steering setup/ackermann is different from the SSG/Black vs the CGM (I believe).

The CGM is suppose to have less or no tweak problems that some say they have with the SSG/Black.
JimmyMac is offline  
Old 05-05-2004, 09:02 PM
  #12  
Tech Master
 
Tek Nickal's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Earth
Posts: 1,301
Default

Once installing a large bumper I've had no problems with breaking. Very easy to work on, I like the way that with just one pin you can take out the spur.
Tek Nickal is offline  
Old 05-05-2004, 10:56 PM
  #13  
Registered User
 
ritchie's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2001
Posts: 2,044
Default

maybe i'm doing something wrong, but i have to take out more then one pin to change the spur. please send me directions for doing it.
ritchie is offline  
Old 05-06-2004, 05:56 AM
  #14  
Tech Champion
iTrader: (6)
 
Matt Howard's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Abilene TX
Posts: 5,952
Trader Rating: 6 (100%+)
Default

Originally posted by ritchie
maybe i'm doing something wrong, but i have to take out more then one pin to change the spur. please send me directions for doing it.
well technically it is just one pin, then you take out the rear diff and slide the rear input shaft out the back
Matt Howard is offline  
Old 05-06-2004, 02:50 PM
  #15  
Tech Master
 
pheyhoe's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: UK
Posts: 1,337
Default

yeah you just take out the diff, slide the input shaft forward, let the pin fall out, then pull the input shaft out the diff housing, and hey preston, the spur is out.
pheyhoe is offline  

Thread Tools
Search this Thread

Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service - Do Not Sell My Personal Information

Copyright 2018 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.