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Old 05-12-2010, 08:26 PM   #16
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See if your local club/track has a mini class. then get yourself an M05.
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Old 05-12-2010, 09:01 PM   #17
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Originally Posted by skiptomylou6 View Post
I assume you're talking about WCRC as far as your local track? . Take a look at the Hot Bodies Cyclone S, parts are abundant, there's like a million Hot Bodies Sponsored guys in SoCal that are willing to help with your setup or questions, and the car is pretty affordable. You can easily get a used one for diiiiiirt cheap. You don't even need any hop-ups for it, it's a very straight forward car that is durable and the stock setup works at West Coast.
I too would suggest the Cyclone S--it was my first touring car getting back into on road RC since 94--and it was cheap and easy to setup. It's competitive with anything out there--and LOT'S of them out there to help you with setup per above. You can find NIB kits for $130--and used ones here on RC Tech for good deals. Plenty of hopup parts if you want--but mine in bone STOCK form runs very well with 17.5 or 13.5 motors. I haven't tried to run it in open yet---but 13.5 is fast enough for me!!! Can't go wrong with one of these.
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Old 05-13-2010, 01:16 AM   #18
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WCRC is my local track, they guys I ran into race Tamiya and X-ray. I know both are fairly expensive and are not at all supported at the track. I dont know how much they have in terms of TC parts, but they definitely do have HPI and HB parts around. I'll probably start off with a 13.5 timed down just to get a feel for it at first, but it is a nice track and I am definitely looking foward to getting into on road. Thanks guys.
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Old 05-14-2010, 01:38 AM   #19
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I am also thinking about getting into onroad. I am not sure what class I want to run at all lol. I race dirt oval with buggy based cars, and have been fairly sucessful. But I am looking to try something different. I know I would like to stick to oval atleast at first. There are two different ovals around here that I can run, one carpet and one asphalt parking lot. The asphalt track runs a 13.5 nascar cot class that is appealing to me. The main question I have is belt or shaft drive? A few people I have talked to say to stay away from shaft because they have bad torque steer. And others say belts are bad because they need constant adjustment from the stretch. So I am just about stumped. But something about the tc4 and the tt01 catch my eye, I'm not sure what it is but they do. Something else I want to keep in mind is drifting if I don't like the racing. A friend of mine had a drift car (not sure what it was) and that was a real blast!
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Old 05-14-2010, 03:33 AM   #20
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Well, if you want to get into onroad oval then get an oval car. They are direct drive pan cars. No torque steer, no belt adjustments. But you might want to ask them what tires you're allowed to use. If you can use caped tires, go with those. No truning necessary.
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Old 05-14-2010, 06:27 AM   #21
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I am also thinking about getting into onroad. I am not sure what class I want to run at all lol. I race dirt oval with buggy based cars, and have been fairly sucessful. But I am looking to try something different. I know I would like to stick to oval atleast at first. There are two different ovals around here that I can run, one carpet and one asphalt parking lot. The asphalt track runs a 13.5 nascar cot class that is appealing to me. The main question I have is belt or shaft drive? A few people I have talked to say to stay away from shaft because they have bad torque steer. And others say belts are bad because they need constant adjustment from the stretch. So I am just about stumped. But something about the tc4 and the tt01 catch my eye, I'm not sure what it is but they do. Something else I want to keep in mind is drifting if I don't like the racing. A friend of mine had a drift car (not sure what it was) and that was a real blast!

get a TB03 instead of a TT01, cuz if you decide on racing touring TB is alot better than the TT. BTW TB is also a shaft car. OK C U SOON. (LOL)
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Old 05-14-2010, 11:34 AM   #22
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Originally Posted by Foxxrocket View Post
Well, if you want to get into onroad oval then get an oval car. They are direct drive pan cars. No torque steer, no belt adjustments. But you might want to ask them what tires you're allowed to use. If you can use caped tires, go with those. No truning necessary.
The classes around here are just about all touring car based not pan car based. Plus the pan cars look a little confusing but simple at the same time lol.

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get a TB03 instead of a TT01, cuz if you decide on racing touring TB is alot better than the TT. BTW TB is also a shaft car. OK C U SOON. (LOL)
I'll check out the TB series, thanks.

I was looking around a little more last night and I ran across the hot bodies cyclobe s. The price is what caught my eye. But what is up with the plastic shocks on almost all of the touring cars out there? It seems like unless you spend $400 you don't get aluminum shocks. Do the plastic shocks hold up to the stresses of racing? I know on a rough dirt oval or offroad plastic shocks fail within a couple laps.
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Old 05-16-2010, 04:55 AM   #23
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Post Newbie Question

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Associated still supplies parts for cars that they've had out for over ten years. Also some of the easiest cars I've worked on have been associated cars. I can change just about any part on a TC3/4 in a few minutes. Parts are cheap, but the car is tough enough that you won't have to use them right away.
I too am looking for a place to jump in to RC racing. This will be my first car and I am leaning towards the Associated TC4. My local hobby shop echo'ed what has been said here - choose a car with a good availability of parts.

I would like to hear more about Associated from those racing those cars. Also, what about the charger, batteries, etc. As a new person, I am guessing I will end up with a basic set of batteries and a decent charger. Recommendations on a good charger and what capacity should I purchase on the batteries? 1800 mA or other?

Thanks and I look forward to getting started!
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Old 05-16-2010, 05:28 AM   #24
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Xray T2R Pro
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Old 05-16-2010, 05:28 AM   #25
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cyclone s is really good to
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Old 05-16-2010, 05:46 AM   #26
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Lightbulb Belt versus Shaft

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Thanks Chase - I see the Xray is belt driven. Should I be concerned about belt versus shaft initially? Logic tells me shaft is more durable...

Appreciate the response!
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Old 05-16-2010, 05:55 AM   #27
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Thanks Chase - I see the Xray is belt driven. Should I be concerned about belt versus shaft initially? Logic tells me shaft is more durable...

Appreciate the response!
i never have a problem with the belt its really smooth and great take off. One thing belt dosnt have that shaft does is spools up a lil quicker but that dosnt matter what matters is the driving
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