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Old 05-02-2004, 07:18 AM   #16
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BMI chassis is stiffer than the one xray gives you. (T1R) I have the T1R myself and love it. I will probably upgrade to a bmi chassis soon, but i am looking into some other TC.
If you do get the T1R, get some aluminium hex's because sometimes they like to break/strip when you turn too much. Or you can go to pivot balls, supposed to be very durable.
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Old 05-02-2004, 07:27 AM   #17
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Yokomo are about to release new wishbones : diferent front to rear, and beefier. They should be way stronger than the previous ones, so if I were you I wouldn't forget that car.

The X-Ray is good, but I only see them breaking C-Hubs.
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Old 05-02-2004, 07:28 AM   #18
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yup, c-hubs do break, thats why you upgrade to pivot balls.
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Old 05-02-2004, 07:29 AM   #19
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Quote:
Originally posted by JDXray
BMI chassis is stiffer than the one xray gives you. (T1R) I have the T1R myself and love it. I will probably upgrade to a bmi chassis soon, but i am looking into some other TC.
If you do get the T1R, get some aluminium hex's because sometimes they like to break/strip when you turn too much. Or you can go to pivot balls, supposed to be very durable.
Any carbon chassis is stiffer than the T1R chassis ! The stock FK chassis is quite stiff, and I think the FK is a much better choice than the T1R for a racer.
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Old 05-02-2004, 07:31 AM   #20
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but for starters i think t1r is a good start, then the Factory Kit.
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Old 05-02-2004, 07:55 AM   #21
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both cars have potential to be the fastest cars on the track...its the driver,setup, etc. that makes them do that....i opt for the TC3 because of parts support but the Yok sure does look fast too
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Old 05-02-2004, 08:14 AM   #22
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Quote:
Originally posted by JDXray
but for starters i think t1r is a good start, then the Factory Kit.
Yeah, but i don't think he's a starter..............
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Old 05-02-2004, 08:18 AM   #23
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They are all capable of being great cars. I have run the SSG Yokomo and now the CGM SD this past year. I have not had the parts issues that some claim. I run weekly in Mod sedan and still have the kit arms on the car! I have ran the Tc3, Schumacher and Losi cars. The Yok is my favorite of the group. I agree with the suggestion that the CGM is the Yok to get. All graphite molded parts and current shock towers. It is a nice kit.

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Old 05-02-2004, 11:18 AM   #24
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Does the belt drive, of lets say the Xray, need a lot more to maintain than the shaft drive of a Pro 4 or TC3?

This will be my first TC and belts kinda scare me for some reason. But from another thread it seems the Xray is pretty damn tough. What is everyones thoughts?

I want to know strictly from a maintenance point of view how much harder a belt drive is to maintain than a shaft drive.
Thanks!
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Old 05-02-2004, 11:25 AM   #25
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i have never had to clean my belts, only the diffs because they get that carpet stuff in it.
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Old 05-02-2004, 11:37 AM   #26
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Ok, I've been using a 414M (belt) and a SD (shaft).

On the 414, the pulleys wears rather fast, even the alloy ones. But replacing them is a 2 minutes job. Working on the diff is a bit long, but once you get used to it, you can do it fast (I've changed a one way to a front diff + center fixed pulley in 5 minutes ). The X-Ray should be almost the same, as the conception is very similar from this point of view.

On the SD, I have never had to change any bevel gear. Access to the diff is supposed to be easier (only 2 screws), but it's without counting on the fact that the driveshafts are a bit difficult to snap (because of the diff rings). I had to grind the pins on my dogbones to make this easier.

Another point you have to consider is changing the spur gear : it's way easier on a belt driven car, and even the nice design on the SD concerning this feature cannot match it.

Also, the shaft driven cars are way harder on the dogbones and bearings from what I've seen. The SD bearings dies pretty quick, whereas on my 414 the bearings lasted more than 1 year. The supersized bearings on the X-Ray seems to be good too. The rear dogbones on the SD can be upgraded to the alloy ones, but they'll wear pretty fast, unlike on any belt driven car.

Apart from that, I don't ee anything, I'm still yet to destroy a belt on my 414, and if you take care of them (changing them every 6 months or so), they should not pose any problem. And don't forget, a driveshaft can get bent...

At the end, I think it's a question of tastes, having tried both, I must say I like the feeling on a belt driven car, it's so smooth and easier to drive. Besides, there's no torque steer with a belt driven car...
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Old 05-02-2004, 01:40 PM   #27
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Yokomo or TC3

YOKOMO ALL THE WAY

Just when you order the car, order a few extra sets of arms/c-hubs/knuckles for backup

Get the CGM & if you want the CF later get the Rayspeed kit. THe SSG is real flexy and you might as well have a battery eject button on the right door of your body
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Old 05-02-2004, 06:25 PM   #28
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Cobra81li200 - Thanks for the answer1!

I think I will go with the Xray...but now which to get...hmmmm??


I know the topic of this thread is Yoke or TC3 and I'm a little off point but we're all here to learn right!
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Old 05-03-2004, 12:48 AM   #29
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same here NKript, there are so many to chose from!! regardless of what i get it will be from the u.s. and then shipped over, the price they ask here is extortionate, xray t1r: $220? here it is 220!!
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Old 05-03-2004, 03:28 AM   #30
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Quote:
Originally posted by sparky123
same here NKript, there are so many to chose from!! regardless of what i get it will be from the u.s. and then shipped over, the price they ask here is extortionate, xray t1r: $220? here it is 220!!
Lol, get some spares then mate, C-Hubs... as centre point is really crap at getting parts in stock.

If it's your first touring, you can't go wrong with a raycer, if you're an average (or better) driver, then the FK is the way to go IMO.
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