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Old 07-11-2011, 12:23 PM   #721
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Thankyou
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Old 07-12-2011, 05:26 AM   #722
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For your info, in ETS with Cyrtris and SP 13.5, the gear ratio are limit to 4.0 in Apeldoorn and Andernach, the ESC and motors work very good and fast, without temp problems.

Greetings, Luis C.
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Old 07-12-2011, 06:39 AM   #723
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Thanks Luis C, I wouldn't of thought you would of been geared at 4.0 ! as Andernach looked quite a tight track ? but looks like quite a long straight.
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Old 07-13-2011, 10:42 AM   #724
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Quote:
Originally Posted by luic View Post
For your info, in ETS with Cyrtris and SP 13.5, the gear ratio are limit to 4.0 in Apeldoorn and Andernach, the ESC and motors work very good and fast, without temp problems.

Greetings, Luis C.
Do they allow timing advanced on motor...? Like the sensor go all the way to 10?
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Old 07-13-2011, 03:28 PM   #725
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Normally with the registration, they let you a special rear tap, with this tap the timming adjust is just in midle, are not possible to move it.
I can see, some motors with normal tap at +10, but honestly at the track was not much difference at least in Andernach.

Greetings, Luis C.
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Old 07-14-2011, 08:50 AM   #726
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I just bought a used combo with a v2 17.5 motor. I was surprised how notchy and noisy the motor was when spinning the motor in my hand. It almost feels like an old brushed motor. Is this normal for this motor or is the motor shot? There very little play in the shaft so I'm assuming it's fine but just thought I should ask.
I'm just getting back into rc and have very little experience with the bl motors. The novak SS and tacon motors I have aren't like this.
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Old 07-14-2011, 09:29 AM   #727
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Originally Posted by rcgerber View Post
I just bought a used combo with a v2 17.5 motor. I was surprised how notchy and noisy the motor was when spinning the motor in my hand. It almost feels like an old brushed motor. Is this normal for this motor or is the motor shot? There very little play in the shaft so I'm assuming it's fine but just thought I should ask.
I'm just getting back into rc and have very little experience with the bl motors. The novak SS and tacon motors I have aren't like this.
You may be running in sensorless mode based on what you describe. Does it smooth out once additional throttle is applied?
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Old 07-14-2011, 10:40 AM   #728
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Quote:
Originally Posted by luic View Post
Normally with the registration, they let you a special rear tap, with this tap the timming adjust is just in midle, are not possible to move it.
I can see, some motors with normal tap at +10, but honestly at the track was not much difference at least in Andernach.

Greetings, Luis C.
Awesome...good to know that. We are already working on the 2011-2012 ETS season, and we might try something new....
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Old 07-14-2011, 10:43 AM   #729
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Originally Posted by rcgerber View Post
I just bought a used combo with a v2 17.5 motor. I was surprised how notchy and noisy the motor was when spinning the motor in my hand. It almost feels like an old brushed motor. Is this normal for this motor or is the motor shot? There very little play in the shaft so I'm assuming it's fine but just thought I should ask.
I'm just getting back into rc and have very little experience with the bl motors. The novak SS and tacon motors I have aren't like this.
are you sure you solered A wire on esc to A wire to motor? B to B and C to C...? I have seen customer soldered the B wire correctly but not the A and C and causing that kinda sound...the motor will run but very noisy. Just to make sure...

And no...if everything is wired correctly in sensor mode, this motor should work as good as the PRO version without any weird noise.
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Old 07-14-2011, 11:04 AM   #730
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Thanks for the replies G123 and Solara.
Actually I haven't hooked it up yet I was just talking about spinning it with my fingers. I've been under the impression that the bl motors are way smoother that the brushed counter parts of yesteryear. The few bl motors I have had in my hand are really smooth just spinning the shaft using my fingers; this one almost feels like my old brushed motors when I spin it. I'm just trying to figure if I need to replace something before installing it and somehow fry the esc in the process.
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Old 07-14-2011, 12:06 PM   #731
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Default Thermal-ing

I have a Cirtix SC ESC that keeps thermaling.... I used the programmer box and turned the Thermal Sensor to Off, however, it "still" is cutting out.... (lol ...no punn intended)

I am running a XRay T3 '09, in VTA, with a Ballistic 25.5, geared at 3.92 (approx).

Anyone have any ideas?
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Old 07-14-2011, 12:48 PM   #732
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I have a Cirtix SC ESC that keeps thermaling.... I used the programmer box and turned the Thermal Sensor to Off, however, it "still" is cutting out.... (lol ...no punn intended)

I am running a XRay T3 '09, in VTA, with a Ballistic 25.5, geared at 3.92 (approx).

Anyone have any ideas?
Sure, run a legal VTA ESC .... Kidding aside, myself and Howard will be at Leisure on Sunday so we can try to see what the problem is then as something is very odd when a 25.5 can thermal an ESC.

Jimmy
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Old 07-14-2011, 12:58 PM   #733
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Sure, run a legal VTA ESC .... Kidding aside, myself and Howard will be at Leisure on Sunday so we can try to see what the problem is then as something is very odd when a 25.5 can thermal an ESC.

Jimmy
Well, my quickest and current fix is I am driving to Strictly RC at 3 p.m. today and buying a GTB2..... I have tried everything I can think of, and it "really" gave me problems (Cost Me Points) at the Asphalt Assault at Al's last weekend.!.!.!.!
For now I am going to just pull it and go Novak. Thanks!!!
See you at Leisure....
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Old 07-17-2011, 10:35 PM   #734
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Originally Posted by koval View Post
i bought this esc used from ebay but i have a problem!
i read carefuly the instr manual so to calibrate with the motor(sp competition 3)!
but after calibrating red led is blinking(manual says that red led bliking when detects low voltage)and nothing work exept fan !i tested several times with other 2s battery that was fully charged even test the motor with other esc and it runs great!that means that motor and batterys are ok !i even checked with other transmitter but after many hours calibrating many times and testing still the same thing!what can cause this problem??the esc seems to be new and seller said that he just calibrate that to see if it is ok and didnt even run it in his car!
any opion will be helpful!!!
THANKS!!
Sad to say, but the wiring is pretty poor quality. I have 2 of these and the solder joints on both were shipped frayed and shorting, preventing the switch from operating properly. When I unsoldered the wire from the terminals, cleaned the contacts, and resoldered, the both worked ok and could calibrate.

Take a close look at the switches solder points.
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Old 07-18-2011, 10:06 AM   #735
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The 2011 version of club spec no longer using the soldering design, they are all plugs now...
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