R/C Tech Forums

Go Back   R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric On-Road

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 09-16-2010, 08:56 PM   #406
Tech Regular
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Posts: 351
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by js058515 View Post
EPA adjustments is definitely needed to fine tune brakes as the esc is set for 10% increments up to 100%.
Thanks alot for your help.Did I read it right on the manual that it says I would have to recalibrate everytime I make an atv or epa adj on my transmitter,does this really need to be done to be safe or can I just set it up and forget about it and make epa adjustments on my radio.Also with the programmer I'll be getting soon will the settings I choose get wiped out and go to default if I ever had to raclibrate the esc.
airwoods is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-16-2010, 10:05 PM   #407
Tech Addict
 
js058515's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: SoCal
Posts: 574
Trader Rating: 6 (100%+)
Default

Last week when I made esc adjustment via the controller, I didn't do any recalibrating. I must have missed that part in the manual. I didn't seem to have any radio or esc issues. Maybe this is just a safety precaution and probably the first thing to be done with have issues after changes.

The programming unit comes with a decal that will show you the setting range for the 3 options (Drag Brake, Brake, and Temp cutoff). You will need to confirm the selection before it makes the change. Best thing to do is write down your current settings before making your changes.

Quote:
Originally Posted by airwoods View Post
Thanks alot for your help.Did I read it right on the manual that it says I would have to recalibrate everytime I make an atv or epa adj on my transmitter,does this really need to be done to be safe or can I just set it up and forget about it and make epa adjustments on my radio.Also with the programmer I'll be getting soon will the settings I choose get wiped out and go to default if I ever had to raclibrate the esc.
js058515 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-16-2010, 10:37 PM   #408
Tech Regular
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Posts: 351
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by js058515 View Post
Last week when I made esc adjustment via the controller, I didn't do any recalibrating. I must have missed that part in the manual. I didn't seem to have any radio or esc issues. Maybe this is just a safety precaution and probably the first thing to be done with have issues after changes.

The programming unit comes with a decal that will show you the setting range for the 3 options (Drag Brake, Brake, and Temp cutoff). You will need to confirm the selection before it makes the change. Best thing to do is write down your current settings before making your changes.
Thanks again for your help.looks like this will be a pretty good unit and the fan seems to blow like a hover craft,good for hot summer night racing here in vegas.
airwoods is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-17-2010, 01:27 AM   #409
Tech Adept
 
jackdani's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2010
Posts: 198
Default

but did someone of you changed or adjust the cut off for the lipo??

think this is unadjastable right? reading the manual they say it will cut at 3.5!

is right?
jackdani is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-17-2010, 08:08 AM   #410
Tech Regular
 
jhwnissan's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Hockeytown, MI
Posts: 407
Trader Rating: 13 (100%+)
Default

I have a question. I just got a combo and run Ni-MH batteries, but I didn't get the program card. Am I screwed? Will I be able to run a 4 minute heat? I hate to shell out the money for a lipo if I dont have to yet. I still have some good packs I'm not interested in retiring.
__________________
Josh Howard on RCNEWB.COM
Drawing rc car body madness in a Bunker....
Rare Losi R/C Belt Maker Extraordinaire
Need belts or parts? I can help.
SWs, RWs, XX-4s, XXX-S
jhwnissan is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-17-2010, 08:44 AM   #411
Tech Champion
 
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Chicago Illinois USA
Posts: 9,107
Trader Rating: 16 (100%+)
Send a message via ICQ to Solara Send a message via AIM to Solara
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by airwoods View Post
Thanks alot for your help.Did I read it right on the manual that it says I would have to recalibrate everytime I make an atv or epa adj on my transmitter,does this really need to be done to be safe or can I just set it up and forget about it and make epa adjustments on my radio.Also with the programmer I'll be getting soon will the settings I choose get wiped out and go to default if I ever had to raclibrate the esc.
Best way to do is.........set your radio EPA for throttle and brake @ 100% or whatever number that is default for your radio. Then calibrate the club spec and the radio. After that...adjust your EPA for throttle or brake to your prefer level....HOWEVER, I personal don't see it is necessary especially this is a Club Spec ESC, not the supercharger, turbo software high end ESC.

After the first initial calibration, all the adjustment on EPA after the calibration should not required another calibration. SP manual is more like a precaution or like a double checking reminder. Nothing major.....
Solara is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-17-2010, 08:47 AM   #412
Tech Champion
 
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Chicago Illinois USA
Posts: 9,107
Trader Rating: 16 (100%+)
Send a message via ICQ to Solara Send a message via AIM to Solara
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by jackdani View Post
but did someone of you changed or adjust the cut off for the lipo??

think this is unadjastable right? reading the manual they say it will cut at 3.5!

is right?
Yes...it is not adjustable.
Solara is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-17-2010, 08:50 AM   #413
Tech Adept
 
jackdani's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2010
Posts: 198
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Solara View Post
Yes...it is not adjustable.


are you sure?
so i just install it and run?

is possible? and when lipo will stop? 3.5? is not too early?
jackdani is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-17-2010, 08:50 AM   #414
Tech Champion
 
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Chicago Illinois USA
Posts: 9,107
Trader Rating: 16 (100%+)
Send a message via ICQ to Solara Send a message via AIM to Solara
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by jhwnissan View Post
I have a question. I just got a combo and run Ni-MH batteries, but I didn't get the program card. Am I screwed? Will I be able to run a 4 minute heat? I hate to shell out the money for a lipo if I dont have to yet. I still have some good packs I'm not interested in retiring.
Non of the club spec came with the programmer card to keep the cost down. Like someone mentioned, it is about $15 shipped. It is well worth to invest.
If your NIMH are in good shape...it should do a 4 minutes race without any problem. The best part is...you don't need to worry about ballooning any LIPO cause you are running Nimh.

However...LIPO is the way to go. 1 lipo = 2-3 packs of NIMH. But cost of 1 Lipo is far less then 2-3 packs of Nimh.
Solara is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-17-2010, 08:54 AM   #415
Tech Champion
 
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Chicago Illinois USA
Posts: 9,107
Trader Rating: 16 (100%+)
Send a message via ICQ to Solara Send a message via AIM to Solara
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by jackdani View Post
are you sure?
so i just install it and run?

is possible? and when lipo will stop? 3.5? is not too early?
I myself ran the club spec with a 3 years old CORE RC 20C 5000mah lipo JUST to test and see how it handle with some bad old LIPO....still gave me 6+ minutes of running with the 17.5. I have to stop cause I don't like to stand on the driver stand more then 5 minutes...

I never encourage anyone run any RC car for more then 6-7 minutes....no reason to do it, the motor will get hot, tires lose traction, car handle like crap...why run it until the batteries go down to zero..? No point...
Solara is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-17-2010, 09:44 AM   #416
Tech Adept
 
jackdani's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2010
Posts: 198
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Solara View Post
I myself ran the club spec with a 3 years old CORE RC 20C 5000mah lipo JUST to test and see how it handle with some bad old LIPO....still gave me 6+ minutes of running with the 17.5. I have to stop cause I don't like to stand on the driver stand more then 5 minutes...

I never encourage anyone run any RC car for more then 6-7 minutes....no reason to do it, the motor will get hot, tires lose traction, car handle like crap...why run it until the batteries go down to zero..? No point...
u r right...
i m worryng only because this is my first car and my first lipo and my first brushless!!!
so in the case my lipo is not well charged or i miss something i dont want theme to be ruined.
this is what i was asking....u r a big help!!
so the car will stop anyway befor 10 minutes because the esc will cut around 3.5 right?

may i ask u another question because u seems to know well the club race combo.
i adjusted the throttle range the first time i switch on the esc ad told in the manual, BUT i forgot to put throttle on REV before doing it. anyway it worked and the motor seems to rum properly BUT the lights are strange:
red light flashing even in neutral and yellow light always on....is this a problem?

thanks
jackdani is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-17-2010, 10:10 AM   #417
Tech Elite
 
M-Technic's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Palm Beach, FL
Posts: 2,562
Trader Rating: 15 (100%+)
Default

Your lipo would blow up before it reached 3.5v. Lipos should never go below 3.0v per cell, or 6.0v for your typical 2 cell lipo pack.
__________________
RCAmerica | Xray | Hudy | Radiopost | Speed Passion USA | Trinity | P3 Graphics
M-Technic is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-17-2010, 10:38 AM   #418
Tech Adept
 
jackdani's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2010
Posts: 198
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by M-Technic View Post
Your lipo would blow up before it reached 3.5v. Lipos should never go below 3.0v per cell, or 6.0v for your typical 2 cell lipo pack.


i dont understand.
i measured my lipo 5 minutes ago, (never used, brand new from shop) it was 3,8 per cell....is this charged or not?
so u r saying that 3,5 as a limit of the esc refers to the sum of the 2 cells?

im getting confused
jackdani is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-17-2010, 10:53 AM   #419
Tech Elite
 
M-Technic's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Palm Beach, FL
Posts: 2,562
Trader Rating: 15 (100%+)
Default

If it's 3.5v per cell then ignore my post. I thought you meant it was 3.5v total.
__________________
RCAmerica | Xray | Hudy | Radiopost | Speed Passion USA | Trinity | P3 Graphics
M-Technic is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-17-2010, 11:02 AM   #420
Tech Adept
 
jackdani's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2010
Posts: 198
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by M-Technic View Post
If it's 3.5v per cell then ignore my post. I thought you meant it was 3.5v total.

i really hope is per cell!!......
jackdani is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
World GT Club Racing - To spec or not to spec is the question???? Mr. McGoo Electric On-Road 722 11-01-2014 07:05 AM
Real Stock On Road Racing... Me_MrTyson Australian Racing 214 05-19-2010 06:06 AM



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -7. It is currently 03:45 PM.


We are a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for us to earn fees by linking to Amazon.com and affiliated sites.
Powered By: vBulletin v3.9.2.1
Privacy Policy | Terms of Use | Advertise Content © 2001-2011 RCTech.net