T spec Racer
#1

Since I had my trailer stollen and stripped, I lost so much that I don't want to spend all that money agian so I was thinking about getting into the T-Spec racing class. Anybody have any input on this? What would be the best ESC to get and other than that, that is about all that I could think of.
#2

umm how about a gt7? reliable and decent priced
lazy
lazy
#4
Tech Master

Dually sucks IMO...If you get any ESC around the $100 I'd say the LRP IPC Pro Sport is the best deal at $86...puts out a beef 390 amps & no "dual profile crap" to deal with....Just set for max punch, preferred brake and learn to thorrtle the car.
#5

THE ESC FOR T-SPEC CLASS HAVE A MAXIMUM SUGGESTED RETAIL PRICE......
CHECK OUT THE TRINITY FORUMS...
CHECK OUT THE TRINITY FORUMS...
#6
Tech Master

That doesn't change the fact that a Dually cost about the same as an IPC PS and the IPC is STILL better than the Dually
I'd then suggest one of the lower-end GM models....Good for the $50 spent
I'd then suggest one of the lower-end GM models....Good for the $50 spent
#7
Tech Master

No there's a rule that keeps racers in the class from buying the most expensive ESC, that way no racer has the advantage of the deeper pockets.
#9

thank you for the input and I have to say that I havn't seen the rules yet, so I will go into that and check them out. Knowing that, what would the best speed control for this class be? I have access to a Novak C2 for $90.
#10

Ok. anybody have a link to the rules?
#11

We ran a class similar to the T-spec class at my LHS. basically battery packs have to be less than 1800mah stick packs, unmatched, street spec motor, and esc's couldn't cost more or have less resistance than a novak fusion.
this class actually worked pretty well, the motor choice though was alittle suspect as those Ex-Specs from the factory are kind of crappy, but we were allowed to tune them with brushes and springs which helped alot .
You probably have knowledge on setting up a motor so I won't state the usually newbie stuff.
this class actually worked pretty well, the motor choice though was alittle suspect as those Ex-Specs from the factory are kind of crappy, but we were allowed to tune them with brushes and springs which helped alot .
You probably have knowledge on setting up a motor so I won't state the usually newbie stuff.
#12
#13

This may be easier:
1. You may run any 32 or 48 pitch pinion & spur gear combination, (72 is biggest that fits).
2. When racing with T-Spec Foams you may use the T-Spec foam tires in any combination of compounds to tune your car (TRI90805, 06,07, 08). You may also use track approved tire traction. You may retrue the tires for longer tire life.
3. When racing with T-Spec pre-mounted rubber tires, (TRI90803) you may use track approved tire traction.
4. You may use any shock oil, shock springs or pistons, you may drill pistons if so desired.
4. You may polish or replace differential rings and balls.
5. You may remove the rear sway bar.
6. You may mount your radio gear any where on the chassis.
7. You may add a lexan or kydex transponder mount to the chassis. Its sole purpose must be to hold the transponder.
8. You may only replace original parts with T-Spec original parts.
9. You may rebuild your T-Spec motor by cutting comm, replacing brushes with unmodified Spec brushes (SS2229) and you may use any springs.
10. You may cut off excess body mount length, use any body clips and foam body washers.
11. You may trim front bumper to clear body.
12. You may use any unmodified in any form speed control up to a MSRP of not more then $140.00
13. You must trim, spoiler, paint and mount body to ROAR specifications, (117mm, 6.6” high) (A-Machine REF1003, S-Machine REF1002).
Any modifications other than those list above will be considered illegal and will result in 1 lap lost off your final qualifying time if found during the heats and total disqualification if found after the Main.
All T-Spec races will be 4 minutes in length and will follow the procedures of the local track. (i.e. number of qualifying heats, ground clearance, placement of transponders, legal tire traction compounds, etc.).
I like it all, except for the 4 minute race deal. I would like to see 5, but that's a track by track decision too. The Street Spec series was soooo much fun, but it suffered when all of oval racing declined in the mid to late 90's.
1. You may run any 32 or 48 pitch pinion & spur gear combination, (72 is biggest that fits).
2. When racing with T-Spec Foams you may use the T-Spec foam tires in any combination of compounds to tune your car (TRI90805, 06,07, 08). You may also use track approved tire traction. You may retrue the tires for longer tire life.
3. When racing with T-Spec pre-mounted rubber tires, (TRI90803) you may use track approved tire traction.
4. You may use any shock oil, shock springs or pistons, you may drill pistons if so desired.
4. You may polish or replace differential rings and balls.
5. You may remove the rear sway bar.
6. You may mount your radio gear any where on the chassis.
7. You may add a lexan or kydex transponder mount to the chassis. Its sole purpose must be to hold the transponder.
8. You may only replace original parts with T-Spec original parts.
9. You may rebuild your T-Spec motor by cutting comm, replacing brushes with unmodified Spec brushes (SS2229) and you may use any springs.
10. You may cut off excess body mount length, use any body clips and foam body washers.
11. You may trim front bumper to clear body.
12. You may use any unmodified in any form speed control up to a MSRP of not more then $140.00
13. You must trim, spoiler, paint and mount body to ROAR specifications, (117mm, 6.6” high) (A-Machine REF1003, S-Machine REF1002).
Any modifications other than those list above will be considered illegal and will result in 1 lap lost off your final qualifying time if found during the heats and total disqualification if found after the Main.
All T-Spec races will be 4 minutes in length and will follow the procedures of the local track. (i.e. number of qualifying heats, ground clearance, placement of transponders, legal tire traction compounds, etc.).
I like it all, except for the 4 minute race deal. I would like to see 5, but that's a track by track decision too. The Street Spec series was soooo much fun, but it suffered when all of oval racing declined in the mid to late 90's.
#14
Tech Addict

Originally posted by rcfoolz
Since I had my trailer stollen and stripped, I lost so much that I don't want to spend all that money agian so I was thinking about getting into the T-Spec racing class. Anybody have any input on this? What would be the best ESC to get and other than that, that is about all that I could think of.
Since I had my trailer stollen and stripped, I lost so much that I don't want to spend all that money agian so I was thinking about getting into the T-Spec racing class. Anybody have any input on this? What would be the best ESC to get and other than that, that is about all that I could think of.
Duratrax 8 turn limit and only 75 usd.
If you're ok with buying used stuff E-bay could help.
#15

I run a GM V8 in our 19 turn class, i think that is under the retail and is a powerful yet small ESC. You even get 6V BEC , alot of the cheaper ESCs don't have that.
If that won't work, look into the Futaba MC330CR ESC, it is small and does 6V BEC as well.
As for the time for races, you can easily make 5 minutes with the trinity spec packs, most of them were charging in the 2000 mah range, the cells are actually pretty good for sport cells.
Since you can use different brushes, some tribo would work well.
If that won't work, look into the Futaba MC330CR ESC, it is small and does 6V BEC as well.
As for the time for races, you can easily make 5 minutes with the trinity spec packs, most of them were charging in the 2000 mah range, the cells are actually pretty good for sport cells.
Since you can use different brushes, some tribo would work well.