68 mph micro

Old 06-21-2004, 05:14 PM
  #91  
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ajg my buddy

If your brushes have come in contact with your comm and that comm has been rotated at length against the brushes, there is no way that it will appear as new. If you want to keep your motors running up to par you MUST cut the commutator and replace the brushes.
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Old 06-21-2004, 05:15 PM
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My lhs said they were ok, and they know what they're talking about.
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Old 06-21-2004, 05:16 PM
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I'll make a new video when i get the new front diff. It shipped today, but I don't know what method he shipped it.
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Old 06-21-2004, 05:20 PM
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Obviously they don't know what they were talking about if after many runs on a 10 turn mod motor they tell you that you do not need to skim your comm or replace your brushes.
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Old 06-21-2004, 05:20 PM
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Also, I did say it had a bunch of runs on it, but all those runs were under 2 minutes, some less then a minute, and some only a few seconds. (bad battery pack, but I have a new one now).
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Old 06-21-2004, 05:22 PM
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The manual that comes with the motor says, to cut the comm and replace the brushes every 20 to 30 runs (for bashing, for racing it's every few times). About 10 of my runs is about as long as one run for a 1/10 scale car, which the motor is mostly made for.
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Old 06-21-2004, 05:24 PM
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just out of curiosity, did you use a hand held stopwatch to get the time between the cones?


if so, the gage R&R of your measurement would be awful. No human has a reaction time low enough to get a good reading. You need to increase the distance to approximately 60' to get any kind of accurate reading.

Not saying your car isn't fast, just that if you want to record as accurate a reading as possible by hand, you need to increase the sample time.
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Old 06-21-2004, 05:27 PM
  #98  
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I timed it probably close to 50 times at 10 and 20 feet with an average of .07, if I remember correctly, and I can get down to .04 seconds with my reflexes. I'll try 50' to 60' when I get my new front diff.
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Old 06-21-2004, 05:28 PM
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It's not the color that is the deciding factor, it's the shape of the comm... and wear is not always easy to detect with the human eye.....Trust me it's worn...it's unavoidable given the RPM a ten turn is capable of, especially over the course of many runs as you said are on it......cut it, put new brushes,properly seat them in...and see if its not twice as fast as it is now......then put it on a dyno to find out the rpm it pulls and then re-calculate your figures.....what im getting at is you cant factor in how many rpm's your motor pulled when it was new....or for that matter trust the little printout it came with......it changes constantly
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Old 06-21-2004, 05:29 PM
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I'll do that just for you guys, when I get my new diff.
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Old 06-21-2004, 05:32 PM
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PS dont have your hobby shop do it
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Old 06-21-2004, 05:34 PM
  #102  
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They can do it better than anyone else in town. It's part of their job.

Last edited by ajg; 06-21-2004 at 05:52 PM.
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Old 06-21-2004, 05:41 PM
  #103  
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Question: Should I adjust the timing? I have it a 20 degrees now.
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Old 06-21-2004, 07:03 PM
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Its still 68 MPH of junk!!!!
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Old 06-22-2004, 02:17 AM
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We'll since it's part of their job they must be good at it .....on the timing , since your going for top end and it's a light car, try to go up a few degrees at a time until it slows down........Not sure what brushes and springs your running but try to run the highest silver content brushes you can get your hands on.....
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