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Old 04-22-2004, 01:57 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally posted by lee82gx
torque steer is not much of a problem.The bad balance is.
damn,it's very frustrating.

On the same note,the batteries are almost always going to be heavier than the motor+electronics.

I don't understand why there are still cars with batteries on 1 side and everything else on the other.
Interesting...
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Old 04-22-2004, 03:15 AM   #17
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Budget is not an issue. I want to buy one car and be happy with it reguardless of what I choose. I want to make the right choice.

I appriciate all your input so far and keep them coming.

Cheers
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Old 04-22-2004, 03:49 AM   #18
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I think you need to narrow the search. Which cars is supported well, where you're located?

As far as I understand, XRay is one of the most durable. And it got easy access to the adjustment, like externally adjustable dampening on the shocks, adjustable diffs, without tearing apart the car, clips for wheel base, easy access to droop screws. This easy access, makes it easier to experiment with the setup, which is quite important.
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Old 04-22-2004, 04:46 AM   #19
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I have an EVO3 and a TRF415. Both great cars. I like the 415 better as there is no problem with stripping gears. I also like the fact belt cars seem more planted in the corners whereas I alway feel like I am on the edge with the shaft car.

Other than those, I would consider the XRay or wait for the EVO4. Tamiya and XRay has the best fit and finish in my opinion. It may not matter on the track so much but it's a pleasure to build and maintain.
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Old 04-22-2004, 05:13 AM   #20
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Quote:
Originally posted by Java1970
...shaft drive is way better than belt...
Why ?
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Old 04-22-2004, 06:13 AM   #21
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Xray is my choice....well balanced and very durabe.I have no local part support at all and I'm not affriad because the car has proven to be almost unbreakable in my case.I bought $125 in spares a year ago and I've gone though one c-hub and one universal shaft.The car(T1R) is starting its second on-road season and is still three times tighter than a brand new TC3.T1R's can be had as low as $185 online.HTH
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Old 04-22-2004, 06:53 AM   #22
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Default Best budget car

I would go for the Yokomo CGM kit. For $330.00 you have a new one sent to you via HK. If your LHS does not have the parts for it you can always get them through Hobby Habbit in SA. Or buy the parts you need from OS. I can recommend an OS supplier for all your Yokomo spares and i can also give you a rough idea on what spares you will need just in case.

TC3's are like assholes everyone has one.

Be original
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Old 04-22-2004, 06:57 AM   #23
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Default Re: Best budget car

Quote:
Originally posted by Yokomo Aust
TC3's are like assholes everyone has one.

Be original
You just made me laugh...

And well guessed, personally, I dont like the TC3 (not offending anyone, just my opinion)
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Old 04-22-2004, 07:13 AM   #24
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Quote:
Originally posted by Lowrance
Xray is my choice....well balanced and very durabe.I have no local part support at all and I'm not affriad because the car has proven to be almost unbreakable in my case.I bought $125 in spares a year ago and I've gone though one c-hub and one universal shaft.The car(T1R) is starting its second on-road season and is still three times tighter than a brand new TC3.T1R's can be had as low as $185 online.HTH
Im with Lowrance on this one
i run 2 Xray T1R,s in my local club both Stock and Mod class and in the last 10 months have only replaced a from Hub ( hit a car head on ) other then that , i replaced the laysharft bearings as they are prone to lock up
otherwise no problems
my 2 Cents worth
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Old 04-22-2004, 08:10 AM   #25
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Quote:
Originally posted by Lowrance
Xray is my choice....well balanced and very durabe.I have no local part support at all and I'm not affriad because the car has proven to be almost unbreakable in my case.I bought $125 in spares a year ago and I've gone though one c-hub and one universal shaft.The car(T1R) is starting its second on-road season and is still three times tighter than a brand new TC3.T1R's can be had as low as $185 online.HTH
Xray is my second choice for no other reason than the fact I will need to convert all my batteries to saddle packs LOL.
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Old 04-22-2004, 08:42 AM   #26
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i "prefer" shaft driven cars. not so much for thier performance but because ure diffs housings are sealed, not as many pulleys to wear out. more efficient (on paper) ona belt car you have to be careeful of stones gettin in ure diff housings, belts stripping, pulleys wearing. and also unless you have your belt tension perfect there is alot more vibration just my opinion.
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Old 04-22-2004, 09:40 AM   #27
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I've driven all types of popular TC, but I keep coming back to a belt drive car, which is the XXX-S. It's drivetrain is sealed for the most part, so it keeps out the big stuff, like stones. It still allows a little dust, unless you take the time to seal the lexan gear guard and bottom belt cover with some silicon sealant or something like that. Also, the chassis is tweak free, and doesn't seem to want to tweak itself when abused/crashed hard. I purchased one of the first losi's to hit the LHS shelves, along with the first run of graphite chassis. To this day I'm still driving with the same chassis, and the thing is perfectly true and tweak free after years of use/abuse. (I just checked it last night!) Although I do have a G+ chassis waiting in the wings.

Plus and this is just my opinion and my own unique driving style, but the Losi just works for me. I've never driven a car that just flowed with my driving style like the losi does. It's why, no matter how many TCs I own , trade, or sell, the losi never leaves my stable.

But I do agree that the belt tension/skipping thing is a bit of an annoyance. But hey, it's worth it IMO.

About the only difference I notice between belt and shaft is that initial snap from a shaft car when you hit the gas off a corner. A belt car kind of "hesitates" as the belt tensions back up. But as far as hurting your lap, I don't really think it has an effect....again, IMO.
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Old 04-22-2004, 11:19 AM   #28
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At my LHS touring is the main class. At one time the vehicle battle of choice was between the XXX-S and TC3. now the X-Ray is the rage among the pro guys.

The X-Ray is a great vehicle, you get what you pay for there I will admit. I am not a big belt fan but if I had to get a belt drive vehicle, the X-Ray would be on my list.

As for the XXX-S, guys are able to get it to work, but if you get one, make sure you get a GP+ model. When I got my XXX-S I couldn't get it to work for me no matter what I did. it wouldn't turn at all well until I got some PRP shock towers.

The TC3 is my car of choice right now. I have upgraded mine with BMI Chassis, but even without it, I was better driving it than my XXX-S ever.

As for the Pro-4, word I have heard is to dump the one-way and get a standard diff right away and the car is awesome. Something to consider.

No experience with the Yok.

For you, even thought I run a TC3 and love it, I would say go with the X-Ray or Pro-4 since you will feel that wow of hey this is a new car. My TC3 only gives me that wow when I look at the BMI chassis
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Old 04-22-2004, 01:20 PM   #29
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my .02 cents worth. just make sure you buy a kit. so you learn how to build the car. if you start with an RTR..if something breaks you might not know how to fix it. plus building is all part of the fun and learning with this hobby.

most of the cars mentioned here come in kit form, so just try to avoid the temptation to buy an rtr.
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Old 04-22-2004, 01:30 PM   #30
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Three letters, three numbers: T R F 4 1 5
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