niznai

Ha-ha! For once good advice found a good home. Your car and electronics are indeed top of the tops. Perhaps the radio will need upgrading but that's in the distant future for now.

About the servo, everybody has their own preference again.

The KO servo recommended above is probably a good one to start with. There are others of better specs but have their own downsides.

I personally use only the JR 9100 series which is faster than the KO (it's actually the fastest servo on the market), has more torque (the highest torque for the speed) and is all metal geared, ball raced, coreless motor. It really has all the bells and whistles.

Downside is that is a hairwidth wider than a standard servo. This is not a problem as most cars have some adjustment allowed for different size servos.

Another downside is that the JR servo is quite heavy and right now I can say I would like a little less weight in my car as regulations allow a lower race-ready car weight than in the past. If I balance my car left to right for instance, I need to add weight to the battery side until I am above the legal weight by a little margin, because of the heavy servo. With a smaller, ligther servo, I would be spot on, but then again, I like it's reaction speed and categorically positive control of my steering.

Talk about servo speed, when choosing the servo, make sure your radio can handle it. I have discovered to my surprise some time ago that the radio I was using (a first gen DX3, DSM1) was too slow to make use ofsuch a fast servo. Not sure about the DX3R, but I don't think you need to worry about it with a .1s servo. If you do decide for a faster servo, ask around. I switched to a KO Helios radio and only then realised how capable my servo was.

All this comes at a price though (in Australia, these servos cost half the price of your car).

However, it is very likely that you'll never need to buy another servo. My oldest is pushing five years of racing, crashes and all with no issues at all. Over that timespan, the price becomes more than acceptable.

niznai

How do you get rid of a double post?

Way2Evl

iTrader: (9)

Thanks for all the great advice. I really appreciate it. I will look into the servos you guys have suggested.

Niznai - Are you talking about the JR 9100s servo?There are so many different JR series servos that I didn't know which one to do research on.

How do you guys like the SMC LiPo's? All I ever hear anyone talk about is Thunder Power.

mild seven

iTrader: (63)

Futaba 9551 low profile servo is another good one for u to look at. solid, reliable and fast.

i havnt used SMC lipos but have read the quality isnt the best. IP and Thunderpower are probably the best in the business.

have fun.

niznai

This is the one:

http://www.waldorfrc.com/servlet/the...S-Servo/Detail

Way2Evl

iTrader: (9)

So I decided to go with the Kopro 2413 servo. The other one just seemed a little complicated and I figure it would be something to upgrade to in the future.

Trying to find my LiPo now. What does it mean if it has a Traxxas connector? Is that a problem? Someone told me I'd have to change it. What kind of connector should I be looking for? I know my charger comes with Deans connector. It that the type I should be looking for? Will the deans connect to my ESC or whatever it needs to connect to. Thanks in advance for the reply(s).

F1fletch

iTrader: (10)

For starters I would use a deans connector. You are getting great advice on here just keep up the smart decisions and take your time building the kit and don't forget to CA the chassis and holes. A Main Hobbies is a great place to get lots of stuff and their Protek batteries are pretty reputable. I use a Team Orion digital servo and could not be happier so far and the DX3R radio is perfect.

Most of the batteries out now are 5000+ milliamp hrs which is the capacity of the battery (how long a run you will get). The 2s means it is two cell and they are all 7.4 volt which is a standard spec for touring cars. The "C" rating has to do with discharge capability how many amps it will discharge in a given time (seconds). Again most are going 50c now.
My Xray T3 was fast and handled well out of the box with all baseline settings, now its down to gearing, speedo settings (get the tekin interface) and most of all my lame driving...lol

hope this helps

stitchy

iTrader: (13)

Deans is one of the most widely used connectors for RC. The Traxxas connector is simply a different brand. They both claim zero loss. IMO the Traxxas easier to solder and a bit easier to disconnect than a Deans because it's a little bit bigger. The other advantage is that no heat shrink tubing is necessary with the Traxxas. The disadvantage to the Traxxas might be that not a lot of people use them, and if you had to borrow a battery or a charger, you might have to use an adapter or simply be outta luck.

Personally, if all my stuff weren't Deans already, I'd think about going Traxxas, just easier to use in general.

Hope that helps!

Way2Evl

iTrader: (9)

Thanks for the advice, very helpful. Any one second the Protek batteries? Someone once told me the lead in batteries were Thunder Power, SMC & Acorn???

lightfoot

iTrader: (2)

I've only been in this hobby 3 years but my advice would be to learn how to set your car up with neutral settings and leave them there for 6 months... If your new to this, then trust me, you will never notice a 2 degree change to camber or how your shocks are positioned... neutral settings would be something like:

2 degree toe out front
3 degree toe in rear
5mm ride height front and rear
1 degree camber all around
use a stiffer spring in the front then the rear
don't use a sway bar
Sorex 36 all around

this is basic , but I'm sure many other people here will tell you, learn to drive first... worry about the set up later... Oh yeah, and have fun

Cpt.America

iTrader: (52)

You have made a blisteringly good set of choices. Everything you have listed here is top shelf, will work exceedingly well, and will last you a long while.

The Servo is the ONE piece of the car that you DONT want to skimp on. You want a servo with a lot of torque. I personally run a Futaba 9551 lopro on my Xray009, and its perfect in all regards. Small, fast, strong, and pretty affordable.

Sorex are fantastic (buy premounts). 28s for cold weather, 32s for cool/warm weather, 36s for warm/hot weather. At my outdoor asphault track, we normally switch to 36s when the track temp hits ~105 degrees F, give or take.

Also, make sure you buy a decent little temp gun, so you can temp your motor as you begin working on gearing and timing. You dont want to blow up your new 17.5.

In my opinion, the best lipo on the market is the IP 5600mah 50c battery. I just got one a few weeks ago, and it is flawless. You can buy it with bullet plugs, or a deans plug right from the factory.

Way2Evl

iTrader: (9)

Would this be the battery you are referring to (EPIC Trinity IP 5600mAh 7.4V 2 Cell 50C Lipo)

Evoracer

iTrader: (24)

I'd be curious to know how much you've spent so far ?? Were you serious...you have no experience with rc cars and have yet to race one ??

Cpt.America

iTrader: (52)

Yep that's it. You can get them on ebay, amainhobbies.com under their protek label (same battery, same price, different label), and nexusracing.com

Micro-E

iTrader: (4)

^^^^^ Here is some golden advice. I did not go this route - I have been just chasing setups and getting frustrated. Do the above, learn to drive (and thus what to change) and just enjoy the hobby !!