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Old 07-15-2010, 06:48 PM   #436
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Originally Posted by JamesReilly View Post
Whilst that sounds like a reasonable explanation, I seriously doubt it.
The European market has shown a lot of interest in the tamiya version of the EVO conversion. I would think that it was in his best interest to run it there.

OVA: I have been running one of each EVO Top, EVO Tamiya. Both cars are tremendous and I really can't say which I like better. LOL. The EVO has so much more steering and forward bite over the std top chassis I have a hard time believing that chassis was the only change. Once Josh gets the setup sheets done I'll post it. I can't comment on the tamiya std car as i never drove it, however I can say that both cars are within a 0.1 of each other on any given layout so far.

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ygpm

Thanks James

Last edited by OVA; 07-15-2010 at 08:30 PM.
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Old 07-16-2010, 08:40 AM   #437
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RC Market - The gear diff will fit (did they fix it?) but that battery mount I do not think will. I didn't design that thing and had/have no intentions on making it fit in an Evolution.

OVA - Honestly, it's a tought decision for me... Run the parts that I worked hard on and designed for a company that hung me out to dry or use Tamiya's?? I decided to use the Tamiya car because I knew the color in combination with my parts would catch more people's eyes and interest at the event. I had both the red and blue cars on the table during the practice day and hardly anyone picked up the red car - All went for the blue. I checked the pits.... Not a Photon at the track... Also, the Tamiya presented new geometry and a fresh look on some things (I ran the old Tamiya suspension with long arms). Let's be real, I was not going to go there and give Marc or any of the top runners a challenge being the only person there with the car, no previous testing time there, no experience with those tires let alone that I only run rubber tires on asphalt maybe 2-3 times a year anyway (besides if I am even good enough). That's a huge pile of "no chance" before it even gets started..lol.. The better plan was to use the race to learn, observe and show the folks in Europe what our Evolution looks like rather that having my head down thrashing for a result.

I will admit that the WC trip took a lot out of me. I worked really hard on inventory here before I left, then the race then back home working again to get parts done for Angel. I've been a bit MIA just trying to take a little break and regroup before I have to head to Houston for the Nitro WC. The last few days, I've started to get back up to speed here and I will get on the set-up sheet and my set-ups from the Reedy and WC plus what I would consider decient starting set-ups for carpet and asphalt.
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Old 07-16-2010, 09:17 AM   #438
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Originally Posted by Josh Cyrul View Post
RC Market - The gear diff will fit (did they fix it?) but that battery mount I do not think will. I didn't design that thing and had/have no intentions on making it fit in an Evolution.

OVA - Honestly, it's a tought decision for me... Run the parts that I worked hard on and designed for a company that hung me out to dry or use Tamiya's?? I decided to use the Tamiya car because I knew the color in combination with my parts would catch more people's eyes and interest at the event. I had both the red and blue cars on the table during the practice day and hardly anyone picked up the red car - All went for the blue. I checked the pits.... Not a Photon at the track... Also, the Tamiya presented new geometry and a fresh look on some things (I ran the old Tamiya suspension with long arms). Let's be real, I was not going to go there and give Marc or any of the top runners a challenge being the only person there with the car, no previous testing time there, no experience with those tires let alone that I only run rubber tires on asphalt maybe 2-3 times a year anyway (besides if I am even good enough). That's a huge pile of "no chance" before it even gets started..lol.. The better plan was to use the race to learn, observe and show the folks in Europe what our Evolution looks like rather that having my head down thrashing for a result.

I will admit that the WC trip took a lot out of me. I worked really hard on inventory here before I left, then the race then back home working again to get parts done for Angel. I've been a bit MIA just trying to take a little break and regroup before I have to head to Houston for the Nitro WC. The last few days, I've started to get back up to speed here and I will get on the set-up sheet and my set-ups from the Reedy and WC plus what I would consider decient starting set-ups for carpet and asphalt.
understood clearly Josh....I thought the Tamiya version would be the best, but I perfer the photon version...but again i like the ideal Tamiya rear hub that come with different degree toe in...
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Old 07-16-2010, 11:23 AM   #439
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I watched the results roll in from the worlds with interest and was pleased to see yourself and the car in the top 10 for both classes Josh, c'mon the the little guy (independent)
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Old 07-20-2010, 12:44 AM   #440
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Still waiting on that set-up sheet for asphault....my car push like a truck when in on throttle....any help would be great fellas???
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Old 07-20-2010, 07:10 PM   #441
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Has anyone tried the Top gear diff yet? I am trying to figure out what oil to start with for a 17.5 on asphalt
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Old 07-21-2010, 11:00 AM   #442
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bigbank - Can you post your set-up?? Then I could give you a few suggestions and go from there....

At the Reedy Race, I basically ran the same front end set-up from the ROAR Carpet Nats but the rear end I changed around a lot that really helped the car steer better for Sunday. If you have a chance, take a look at that carpet Nats set-up - From there, take out 1mm on the rear suspension mounts to narrow up the rear end and take out another .4-.8mm for less rear toe. Next, add that 1mm back at the wheel (I ran 4mm hex on carpet, 5mm on asphalt sometimes with extra .5mm spacer). This for sure will give the car a lot more steering - especially center/off the corner. I also ran a longer camber link which did actually take away responce and steering but raising the outer ball stud did help get a little back but kept the rear end more consistant and stable through the different sections of the track. Last, I also lowered the rear roll center to the M suspension mounts with the insert with the line down. This is a .5mm lower rear RC which also gave the car more steering. For the front end - You can go 1 spring stiffer than I ran but then lay the front shocks in 1 hole and this will also help. I didn't do that at the Reedy but I did at the WC and it worked pretty well.
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Old 07-21-2010, 11:59 PM   #443
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Josh...thanks...im tring to get ready for the nats.....as u know im going into photon city an i want to have a good outing...got to rep the car..can u pm me your reeedy set up...i will be testing all next week at nor cal..i want to get the car as hooked as i can. if i have a set up sheet to go off of it would do wounders...thanks for all your help..
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Old 07-24-2010, 06:13 AM   #444
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thanks, josh,
and how did you treat the 30x tyres?
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Old 07-25-2010, 09:06 PM   #445
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bigbank66 View Post
Still waiting on that set-up sheet for asphault....my car push like a truck when in on throttle....any help would be great fellas???
Same problem here as well. Some set-up sheets would make things alot easier.
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Old 07-26-2010, 08:58 AM   #446
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Hello please post up your current set ups that are pushing I would be interested to know how they differ to mine

I drive carpet, rubber, and have experienced awesome on power steering, yet stable, car is so well balanced and brilliant in direction changes
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Old 07-27-2010, 12:24 AM   #447
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Here it is

FRONT Track Cond: low Motor:4.5

Caster:4deg
Spool
Toe: .5
Ride Height: 5
Camber: 1.5
Droop: 6
Oil: 45wt
Spring: 324
Piston: 1.2 3hole
FF: 1
FR: 2.5
Shock:3
Camber plate: 2
Outter camber link: 1mm
Inner camber link: 0
Roll center FF:0
Roll center FR:0
Arm angle FF: M 2
FR: M 1
Steering Knuckle: inner

REAR

RideHeight:5
Camber:1.5
Droop:.5
Oil:45wt
Piston: 1.2 3hole
Spring:306
RF:2.5
RR:1
Shock Pos:3
Shock Pos Lower: outter
Camber link Outter:2.5
inner: .5
Roll center RF: M 2
RR: M 1
Toe:F 1mm
R 3mm
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Old 07-27-2010, 04:17 AM   #448
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Obviously this is Josh's domain, I'm not sure my opinion is relevant, but here is my amateur experience so far..

I bought my donor photon used from an outdoor driver, it had a similar set up and had no steering at all. And I guess push might be a problem with such a powerful motor as a 4.5.

I had been using an Mi4LP for some time and recently changed over to Xray T3 and CEFX. Photon/CEFX have more rear grip than Xray in general I found

First thing I did was remove the arm angle from the front by using the M rollcenter block with the notch pointed down all over the car and removed the the arm sweep.

Its too complicated for me because the arm sweep increases weight transfer (more off power steering) but changes the wheelbase/weight distribution more to the front (less off power steering) the anti dive takes weight transfer away from the front (less off power steering) and most important of all it reduces the caster angle (more off power steering, less on power steering)

Now, I cannot make sense of all those variables, and the settings seem to be contradictory.. I'm not an expert driver, there's no way for me to know what's doing what exactly, I'm not experienced enough. So I use the arms flat and keep it simple

I reckon the steering came back because there is more weight transfer with the lowish RC and no anti dive, and the caster angle is restored back to the original 4 deg, helping on power steering

The front camber links, I made them quite horizontal, 2.5 inner, 0 outer, this almost always gives more front end response. I used Josh's option plate with extreme inner position..very good

Most of the other settings are pretty much the same as yours, my rear camber links are default, 2.5 outer, 1.5 inner but your more angled setting should give more rotation

Rear shock angle is a big change to play with, layed down in gives lots of rotation and steering. I only ever move one hole either way from default though, its too easy (for me) to get lost with the setup

Generally I mess with the shock angles depending on available traction now I'm happy with the overall balance
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Old 07-28-2010, 11:22 PM   #449
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what parts would i need to buy to build a cefx car?
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Old 07-29-2010, 12:21 AM   #450
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Here's the link to the parts needed:

http://www.rctech.net/forum/7313673-post151.html
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