220LikesTamiya FF03
07-22-2010, 07:38 PM
#736
The idea is for the rings to slip on the outdrives, rather than slipping on the balls, generating a flat spot, making the diff crunchy sooner.
If you want notched rings, get the 3Racing diff rings for the 416, they have the D ring.
Cannon is correct, in the past Tammy rings barely needed sanding, nowadays they are like rusted old plates of pitted steel.
If you want notched rings, get the 3Racing diff rings for the 416, they have the D ring.
Cannon is correct, in the past Tammy rings barely needed sanding, nowadays they are like rusted old plates of pitted steel.
07-22-2010, 07:53 PM
#737
if i remember correctly, these are not direct fit to 416 outdrives, useable but too much tolerance, it will still slip against the outdrives. not sure how they go against FF03 outdrives
07-22-2010, 07:59 PM
#738
07-23-2010, 02:43 AM
#739
darn these japanese manual writers!
WHAT? we actually have to READ our manuals? preposterous!
teehee... first Tamiya manual that requires actually and careful reading... IMHO.
very farnie Tamiya guy! bet chu laughing your skinny japanese butt off, yes prease?
-Alexander
teehee... first Tamiya manual that requires actually and careful reading... IMHO.
very farnie Tamiya guy! bet chu laughing your skinny japanese butt off, yes prease?
-Alexander
07-23-2010, 06:06 AM
#740
I've seen the steering "note direction" and the subtle "diff flip" in several other Tamiya manuals...it's just the way they like to do it I suppose. People get it wrong every time too and are on here asking about it! 
Makes you wonder how many messed-up Tamiya cars are out there with owners who don't happen to use the forums.
Makes you wonder how many messed-up Tamiya cars are out there with owners who don't happen to use the forums.
07-23-2010, 06:22 AM
#741
Finally got mine up and running and got some practice in yesterday afternoon. It was quick and fun to drive with a 540J in it geared 85/50.
I need to find more steering, but I can work on that. It had a pronounced push at higher speeds.
It came off a little hot, but I ran it at least 10 minutes non-stop. I'll be racing it this Sunday and will check temps regularly.
I'm going to open up a few cooling holes in the area between the body's upper and lower grille areas to help cooling -- they'll blow directly on the can. With the body fitting snug against the bumper there is basically zero airflow to the motor. I'm going to get the heat sink bars as well.
I need to find more steering, but I can work on that. It had a pronounced push at higher speeds.
It came off a little hot, but I ran it at least 10 minutes non-stop. I'll be racing it this Sunday and will check temps regularly.
I'm going to open up a few cooling holes in the area between the body's upper and lower grille areas to help cooling -- they'll blow directly on the can. With the body fitting snug against the bumper there is basically zero airflow to the motor. I'm going to get the heat sink bars as well.
07-23-2010, 08:55 AM
#743
Bah...just build it. The stock ones are fine until you need to replace them, then use the good stuff 
Just remember to glue the diff rings with whatever you think works. I used a super microscopic thin coat of shoe goo applied with an exacto, then put the rings on and spun them to evenly distribute the glue, then built the diff with loose tension to put atleast some pressure on the rings until the glue dried. Finally adjustments were done in car.
Just remember to glue the diff rings with whatever you think works. I used a super microscopic thin coat of shoe goo applied with an exacto, then put the rings on and spun them to evenly distribute the glue, then built the diff with loose tension to put atleast some pressure on the rings until the glue dried. Finally adjustments were done in car.
[RANT] Why do spur gears cost more than pinion gears? Is it because they can strip and then be considered a consumable item? Thanks to the "gear cover" rule, my little $35 collection of ginormous pinions and tiny spurs will now grow with additional sets of quarters and silver dollars...hmm might actually be cheaper to machine coins with teeth. [/RANT] 
In all seriousness, thanks for posting the actual spur/pinion combo that will work with the gear cover as that saves guess work/money. There is a video some pages back that shows an FF-03 geared at 88/59 for FDR of 3.88
In all seriousness, thanks for posting the actual spur/pinion combo that will work with the gear cover as that saves guess work/money. There is a video some pages back that shows an FF-03 geared at 88/59 for FDR of 3.88
bring em out..
