G-rem

iTrader: (2)

Thanks WTCC!

wtcc

iTrader: (2)

No, I haven't thought about it weight wise. Just prefered shorter cables and tried to avoid soldering a longer one to the servo.

@G-rem: I hope you read the PN as I made a mistake regarding the part numbers. Sorry for that.


Now the final mod for this season:
Rear anti-roll-bar



The angle front to rear could be more horizontal, but there is not enough space and I couldn't build shorter links. Nevertheless it works good and the suspension lift is equal side to side. I can be seen lucky, because I thought the upper arb holder were K-parts. They were not, it is J-5. What saved this mod were the rockerarms from the TA06. These N-parts came with two arb holder which fit fine with only a little material removal

wtcc

iTrader: (2)

I had another good day with the car.

The day started slow. I had 50000cst in the front diff and it was not good. The car was not agile and had no pull out of the corner.
During the day I switched to the 10.5t motor and tried different settings with the roll bars.
The front arb made the car stay flatter and better from corner middle and out of the corner. Unfortunately the corner entry suffered so much, that the laptimes dropped around 1 tenth. In the end I stayed with a 1.3 wire in the rear. It took a little roll out of the car without harming or bettering the laptime. What made the car a real threat for the 4wd chassis today was the 500000cst front diff oil. The car was an agile beast from there on. The front was in charge and pulled awesome through every corner. Traction for 4wd is still better, but the flowing less tight corners were my territory. Also a tight chicane was impressive fast to drive. I could pull out one meter in the last corner on to the straight. That was enough not to be catched until the corners started again.





Today I could close the gap to the fastest 4wd from 1 second down to 5 tenth. Unfortunately there is still an 11 in front. There are still two things that cost time:
1. I need a spool. 500000 is good, but not good enough,
2. the motor performance. The 13.5t 4wd always took at least one meter or more away on the straight. The motor seems to lack of performance while still becoming hot. Around 75*C after 5 minutes, before the conversion it came at 45*C with the same gearing of course. I need to check the timing again. Maybe I put the insert in a wrong position or with too much timing... These things corrected should be worth 2-3 tenth.

Other than that I am extremely happy with the car. The traction and cornering of a fwd is impressive, in some cases superior to 4wd (at least at my skill level). Overall 4wd will be always faster, but 2wd kicks a**

Papi

I like this build. I always thought that RC motor is too heavy to sit in front of axle - even on low grip surfaces I've seen people moving batteries as far back as possible to ballance it.

I like your solution of front shocks,I didn't think of this - it makes me want FF03

Only one think looks weird - on rear rocker arms, their axles should be perpendicular to pushrods, shouldn't they?

wtcc

iTrader: (2)

Thanks for the flowers.

You are right with the rocker-arm-angle, but didn't propose a solution
I for myself didn't find one that fit into the concept with a reasonable price.
If you know how I could achieve the right position with an easy build or nice price part it would make me happy

OSherman

iTrader: (3)

I agree with the rear RockerArm 'orientation'... unfortunately I think it may require the entire assembly to shift forward of chassis. Separating BodyPost mount from RockerArm if you want to keep bodyposts where they are. (New TopDeck)

Not to say that you cant get this configuration to work.. will just need to play with spring/oils. But you will also have more room to 'preload' the coils if you move the assembly forward to 'correct' the Rocker/PushRod angles.

$0.02

OSherman

iTrader: (3)

or... you can try Short(er)Springs and then increase the length of your PushRods using your current layout.

Good thing about Tamiya Springs is that their 'Short' versions are typically a similar rate to their 'Long' version.. Not exact, but close enough to get away with.

you can also play with the 1mm-down spring retainers and such as well..

wtcc

iTrader: (2)

Thanks for the suggestions

Not sure what you mean by "I can get it to work."
The rear works very well. It can do everything I want like increasing grip or taking it away. The angle of the rocker arms is not that important if you shim them correctly and use ball bearings. In fact it works smooth and the rear is not that important on a FF No, it really works fine.

Phew, I had a hard time finding, adjusting and installing the timing and timing insert. It was also my first time to disassemble a brushlessmotor completly. My impression from last time was that the timing was zero or even negative. The motor got hot without delivering good output.
To change that I had to add circular movement for the timing insert. Therefore I grind away the material from the endbell (the bases that connect inner and outer bell). The endbell had to come off to do it right. Then I reassembled everything just to realize it won't move more than before It took around fifteen minutes before I discovered little plates sticking out beneath of the windings which prevent the insert from turning into my wanted position. So I had to do it all over again. Fortunately these plates were made of plastic and not iron. Now the motor turns faster and stronger. The insert has a position 90* in rotation direction in comparison to the original position. Which is something I do not understand as the theory suggests an anti rotation direction... My theory would have been to turn the insert 60* clockwise to get the wanted 30* of timing for the changed rotation, but this and other positions just do not work. The motor does not turn or sounds terrible or turns in the wrong direction if the timing insert is in any other than the above mentioned position... So that is why it took so long (three evenings)

Unfortunately the indoor season is history as the weather is sunny and warm (18*C today ). Not sure when I will drive this car the next time as my Superbike begs for a ride everytime I walk into the garage. You know me... I will let you know

Papi

Cheapest way I can think of are N-parts from TB03 or TA05IFS and cut it into desired shape... But mounting requies further mods to top deck - too much work, if it already works great

wtcc

iTrader: (2)

You are right. That will be difficult and maybe ugly afterwards. I thought of FF03 evo parts (blue aluminium), but they were very expensive.

IAmGreatDane

Curious, did you spray the windows using Tamiya Smoke multiple times?

Thanks.

wtcc

iTrader: (2)

Tamiya PS-31, 4-5 coats

IAmGreatDane

Thanks

wtcc

iTrader: (2)

I just came back from my first outdoor training with my FF-03 conversion...
Still not sure what I did right, but this thing just flys. It is a little twitchy on the rear. Apart from that corner speed is sick. Then again into and out of the corner it is a bomb. Easy to drive and then it pulls itself around and out of a corner... I trained with two ETS-regulars and had no problem to keep up with them. Ok I cheated by having the stronger motor which made up for the lower traction on acceleration on the straight, but cornerspeed was partly better. Then I pulled out my T4'17 and thought that I could drive these guys away. No chance. We had the same speed. So this FF is insane. Difficult in the corner middle, but awesome everywhere else. I am extremely happy.
Unfortunately I made no pictures. My friend Gregor promised to make another video of it soon.

fyrstormer

iTrader: (1)

That mid-front-motor FF-03 is the craziest FF-03 mod I've ever seen. (not that I've seen very many, but it's still damned impressive.) I disagree that a full-front-motor position makes the front too heavy, but if it works for you then I'm not going to argue.

I have a FF-03R kit sitting in a box, waiting for the day I have the time and energy to build it into a MWB Peugeot 306.