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Tamiya FF03

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Old 06-27-2010, 09:30 PM
  #511  
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Originally Posted by OSherman View Post
Fresh from shakedown today... me-like-alot!!
Now a front drive V-dub that's more original......
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Old 06-27-2010, 10:13 PM
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i want this so bad but im in tacoma washington so no TCS here anyway

and i dont want to spend 200 dollars on a kit to bash
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Old 06-27-2010, 10:36 PM
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Originally Posted by daytona squared View Post
i want this so bad but im in tacoma washington so no TCS here anyway

and i dont want to spend 200 dollars on a kit to bash
Well I'm in Auburn WA, and I think we will find a place to run. I'm sure we can find a class @ FW to race it in, and I know that the Hanger will let the FF03 run in scale spec.
And I think there will be a TCS back up here soon enough. I know quite a few people are trying to figure out how to get one back up here
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Old 06-28-2010, 12:12 AM
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Did my first race with the FF03 today. Tried some different things through out the day.

I ran it with a SP V3 17.5 in a no-timing class using a KO BMC(finally found a use for it) I ended up with a FDR of 3.1 using a 74spur and 62T pinion, temped around 150F.

Had some hard time keeping up with the 4WD out of the turns, but was able to make up on the straight. There is huge potential for corner speed if you can find the correct tire/insert combination for the front and rear. Using the same tires F/R is ok, but does not feel optimal. You will need to warm up the rear prior to the race or you will be doing donuts for the first 5 laps.

Zero front droop is mandatory, and some rear anti-squat helped too.

I also tried widening up the front track width using 1B blocks, and felt really stable. I think the 1XD fronts make the car too nervous imo. I think whatever lightening parts you can use on this car (w/o sacrificing strength) is key to battle against 4wd. I'd like to try a much harder spring/shock setup next time as there still is a lot of body roll.
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Old 06-28-2010, 03:20 AM
  #515  
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Originally Posted by inpuressa View Post
Did my first race with the FF03 today. Tried some different things through out the day.

I ran it with a SP V3 17.5 in a no-timing class using a KO BMC(finally found a use for it) I ended up with a FDR of 3.1 using a 74spur and 62T pinion, temped around 150F.

Had some hard time keeping up with the 4WD out of the turns, but was able to make up on the straight. There is huge potential for corner speed if you can find the correct tire/insert combination for the front and rear. Using the same tires F/R is ok, but does not feel optimal. You will need to warm up the rear prior to the race or you will be doing donuts for the first 5 laps.

Zero front droop is mandatory, and some rear anti-squat helped too.

I also tried widening up the front track width using 1B blocks, and felt really stable. I think the 1XD fronts make the car too nervous imo. I think whatever lightening parts you can use on this car (w/o sacrificing strength) is key to battle against 4wd. I'd like to try a much harder spring/shock setup next time as there still is a lot of body roll.
Hihi, is the zero front droop meaning to create the MAXIMUM downstop? Meaning when lifting the front bumper(alot), the wheel will still touch the ground? Thank you if you could share & explain more to me.
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Old 06-28-2010, 08:10 AM
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Hi guys need some adivce...

I got my ff03 pro kits ..during the installation i found that with the stock dog bone and wheel axles ..it doesn't work....

When i turn at certain angle the dog bone just stop the wheel from turning
Look like i need to ugrade to universal axles?
CAn help anyone? could it be my installation is wrong???

Thanks
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Old 06-28-2010, 08:47 AM
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Looking for a scale or scale-ish rear wing to fit on the tamiya Golf GTi shell if anyone can suggest one ? carn't find the suzuki swift one anywhere.
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Old 06-28-2010, 08:54 AM
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Originally Posted by Gasaraki View Post
Hi guys need some adivce...

I got my ff03 pro kits ..during the installation i found that with the stock dog bone and wheel axles ..it doesn't work....

When i turn at certain angle the dog bone just stop the wheel from turning
Look like i need to ugrade to universal axles?
CAn help anyone? could it be my installation is wrong???

Thanks
i had same problem.. someone said he used these parts to make his own universal

Tamiya Cross Joints For Universal Shaft Set 4pcs. 53500
Tamiya 46mm Swing Shaft Hard 51092
Tamiya TB-03 Wheel Axles 54076
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Old 06-28-2010, 10:33 AM
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Originally Posted by M03Racer View Post
A front drive Porsche OUCH.......
Tell me about it...yesh! Blame FMW
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Old 06-28-2010, 10:51 AM
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Originally Posted by tpsolid View Post
i had same problem.. someone said he used these parts to make his own universal

Tamiya Cross Joints For Universal Shaft Set 4pcs. 53500
Tamiya 46mm Swing Shaft Hard 51092
Tamiya TB-03 Wheel Axles 54076
46mm axels are to long had the same problem too.
I used the axel for a ta04 kit fit perfect!!!
ther 42mm shafts
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Old 06-28-2010, 11:04 AM
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Originally Posted by SilverShelby View Post
46mm axels are to long had the same problem too.
I used the axel for a ta04 kit fit perfect!!!
ther 42mm shafts
thank you sir for clarification!

I will update my to buy list
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Old 06-28-2010, 11:13 AM
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Originally Posted by SilverShelby View Post
46mm axels are to long had the same problem too.
I used the axel for a ta04 kit fit perfect!!!
ther 42mm shafts
I used 46 and had no problems...
did you guys "flip" the diff over as it stated on the manual before inserting the diff screw assembly?
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Old 06-28-2010, 11:18 AM
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Originally Posted by colt1402 View Post
Hihi, is the zero front droop meaning to create the MAXIMUM downstop? Meaning when lifting the front bumper(alot), the wheel will still touch the ground? Thank you if you could share & explain more to me.
When I say zero droop, the tires do not come down at all meaning no down travel. This way, the front does not jack up upon accel which will keep the weight on the front to reduce wheel spin. The rear anti squat also helps with this process.

The front tires temp was waaaay hotter than the rear. I guess I can try 40R with standard inserts and maybe a 28 with soft inserts in the rear. Also might take the 5000mah batt to a lighter 4000. Too bad you can't move the batt like the short courses.

On another note, the plastic susblock on the front cracked upon a hit to the boards. Alum upgrade is recommended.
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Old 06-28-2010, 12:39 PM
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Originally Posted by redbones View Post
I used 46 and had no problems...
did you guys "flip" the diff over as it stated on the manual before inserting the diff screw assembly?
I used 46mm as well and they fit perfectly, just as they do on every other car with 1D/1XD and the short arms.

As redbones suggested, if you didn't flip the diff during assembly (an easy mistake, as the "twisted arrow" is a little subtle) the inner screw assembly will be really wide, affecting the driveshaft fit. Come to think of it, this may be the problem for the binding dogbone guy above.
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Old 06-28-2010, 12:46 PM
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Originally Posted by reenmachine View Post
I used 46mm as well and they fit perfectly, just as they do on every other car with 1D/1XD and the short arms.

As redbones suggested, if you didn't flip the diff during assembly (an easy mistake, as the "twisted arrow" is a little subtle) the inner screw assembly will be really wide, affecting the driveshaft fit. Come to think of it, this may be the problem for the binding dogbone guy above.
I need to doublecheck that when I get home tonight.
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