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Tamiya FF03

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Old 12-23-2017, 08:01 AM
  #3016  
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Originally Posted by fyrstormer View Post
I don't glue the thrust washers to the outdrives at all. If the thrust washers are not keyed, then I use a bit of black grease to lubricate the interface between the thrust washer and the outdrive, so it *can* rotate when the diff is overloaded. I'd rather have the thrust washer slip against the outdrive, instead of having the diff balls gouge the thrust washer.
Interesting. I always kind of thought of the thrust washer and diff balls as a consumable part. If you let the thrust washer slip against the outdrive how do you adjust the diff tension? I'm asking to learn something I'm not being wise.
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Old 12-23-2017, 10:40 AM
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Our FF-03 group welcomed a new member today:




We introduced him right away to our driving manners

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Old 12-23-2017, 11:00 AM
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Originally Posted by wtcc View Post
The normal FF03 has wonderful plastic outdrives
Ewwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwww

Well there's TRF upgrade #1 right there. Install the lightweight aluminum ball diff right out of the box. Or get the TA-06 gear diff, the TA-06 aluminum rear diff cover, the TA-06 aluminum rear diff outdrives, and the FF-03 gear-diff gearbox.
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Old 12-23-2017, 11:02 AM
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Originally Posted by 76jimmy View Post
Interesting. I always kind of thought of the thrust washer and diff balls as a consumable part. If you let the thrust washer slip against the outdrive how do you adjust the diff tension? I'm asking to learn something I'm not being wise.
The thrust washers are definitely a consumable part, no avoiding that, but there's no reason to consume them faster than absolutely necessary. Hence letting the washers slip against the outdrives if the diff is overloaded.

The pressure that keeps the diff balls clamped between the thrust washers also keeps the thrust washers clamped to the outdrives. You still adjust the diff tension the same way as normal, by tightening or loosening the pressure screw. The only difference is, if the diff is overloaded to the point that the balls might slip against the thrust washers, the thrust washers slip against the outdrives first.
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Old 12-23-2017, 05:23 PM
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Originally Posted by fyrstormer View Post
The thrust washers are definitely a consumable part, no avoiding that, but there's no reason to consume them faster than absolutely necessary. Hence letting the washers slip against the outdrives if the diff is overloaded.

The pressure that keeps the diff balls clamped between the thrust washers also keeps the thrust washers clamped to the outdrives. You still adjust the diff tension the same way as normal, by tightening or loosening the pressure screw. The only difference is, if the diff is overloaded to the point that the balls might slip against the thrust washers, the thrust washers slip against the outdrives first.
I use Tamiya ball diffs in my DB01 13.5 4wd buggy. I think when I build the next set I'll give it a try.
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Old 12-24-2017, 01:44 PM
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Originally Posted by fyrstormer View Post
The thrust washers are definitely a consumable part, no avoiding that, but there's no reason to consume them faster than absolutely necessary. Hence letting the washers slip against the outdrives if the diff is overloaded.

The pressure that keeps the diff balls clamped between the thrust washers also keeps the thrust washers clamped to the outdrives. You still adjust the diff tension the same way as normal, by tightening or loosening the pressure screw. The only difference is, if the diff is overloaded to the point that the balls might slip against the thrust washers, the thrust washers slip against the outdrives first.
If the outdrives are plastic, letting the plates slip against them is likely to lead to melted outdrives. When that happens you need to replace everything in the diff.
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Old 12-25-2017, 12:23 AM
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Originally Posted by gigaplex View Post
If the outdrives are plastic, letting the plates slip against them is likely to lead to melted outdrives. When that happens you need to replace everything in the diff.
Depends on whether they slip enough to actually generate that much heat, but yes, I agree. I've never had to deal with plastic outdrives before, so potentially melting them hasn't been an issue for me.
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Old 01-28-2018, 05:27 AM
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Not many FF03 drivers are sharing their experience here in the last weeks...
let me jump in
Beside my own car, my friends and I still race our normal FF03s. Mine is a blast to drive. It carries a lot of speed through the corner, allows late dive bombing and very early acceleration. Also it got a new Scirocco body, based on Simon Larssons car, that I want to show off







I finally wrote down the setup for all who are interested. To save money I used parts from my old AE TCs like the springs and dampers...

Datei von filehorst.de laden
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Old 01-28-2018, 06:39 AM
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Your car looks great!
I love that body and wing especially, paint is on point.

I just looked at your setup sheet, I am amazed at how much camber your are running, 2.5 degrees is heavy in my mind, but then again you are running on high grip carpet.

I run on tarmac, tennis courts or basketball courts all of which are super dusty, just for fun. I am not sure how a lot of camber will effect corner traction. I usually run 0 camber primarily to save my tires from the ring of death.

Any thoughts on that? I'd love to be able to pin a corner. You are definitely right about late turning with these cars, even in semi stock form I find late turning is allowed by the chassis, even on crappy surfaces.

I am running mine with a 17t brushed motor because all of my brushless motors have solder tabs on the top of the can which get in the way of the transmission stiffener.

I also did some minor tweaks for a little rally conversation. Yes this is an on road car, but actually it handles surprisingly well as a fwd car for rally too!











Originally Posted by wtcc View Post
Not many FF03 drivers are sharing their experience here in the last weeks...
let me jump in
Beside my own car, my friends and I still race our normal FF03s. Mine is a blast to drive. It carries a lot of speed through the corner, allows late dive bombing and very early acceleration. Also it got a new Scirocco body, based on Simon Larssons car, that I want to show off







I finally wrote down the setup for all who are interested. To save money I used parts from my old AE TCs like the springs and dampers...

Datei von filehorst.de laden

Last edited by 4roller; 01-28-2018 at 07:02 AM.
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Old 01-28-2018, 06:52 PM
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Default Fwd push

Hi all,

I just drove the ff03 today, and found that the car pushes through corners quite a bit.

I am using Ride semi slick tires, the ones for USGT spec racing.

I am running 0 degree camber up front and 1 degree in the rear.

I can't seem to get the car to turn in like my 4wd cars. The surface I am running on is dusty concrete parking lot. On the same surface my TA05 turns in just right with HPI x-patterns.

My guess is that the 4wd car is able to rotate better because the rear wheels are propelling and slipping. Whereas the fwd car has good rear end traction with no real slip until the slip angle is reached. Even with the heavy front end, the car just pushes corners at high speed even with braking before a corner.


Any ideas on tuning for increasing turn in on the ff03?
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Old 01-28-2018, 09:10 PM
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Stiffening the rear a bit, either with stiffer springs or a rear swaybar, should help. Since the front wheels are doing all the work, you need to make sure the front suspension is compliant enough to keep the front wheels planted at all times, and part of that is encouraging the rear wheels to break-free first. If the chassis is cornering harder than the tires' traction can allow, then physics demands that the chassis move into a wider line to reduce the lateral load on the tires enough that they can stick to the ground again. It's better for the chassis to move into a wider line by having the rear wheels lose traction, because that way the front wheels can stay planted and continue doing their job. Also, when the rear swings out, the rear wheels get to help steer the car into the corner too, whereas when the rear wheels stay planted, they just drag along behind the chassis doing nothing useful.

If you watch real touring-car racing (popular in the UK), you'll see the FWD cars "lifting a leg" by raising one of the rear wheels off the ground on a regular basis. This is because the rear suspension is stiffer (relative to the weight it's carrying) than the front suspension is, so when the inside rear wheel comes off the ground, the outside rear wheel is overloaded and starts to slide. Oversteer is much less dangerous for a FWD car than a 4WD or RWD car, because the unpowered rear wheels will regain traction the instant you ease off the throttle and the chassis is allowed to rebalance itself.

But it will always handle differently from a 4WD car no matter what you do. FWD's main benefit is laser-precise cornering when *not* accelerating hard, like when clearing chicanes.
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Old 01-29-2018, 08:04 AM
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@4roller: How much offset are those wheels on your Honda? The car looks great.

Thanks.

(The 3 Scirocco's also looks great).
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Old 01-30-2018, 01:22 PM
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@wtcc

Nice car and body.I build a FF03 a few month ago and tuned it up. Today I locked the diff with tamiya diff putty after the 200k oil came out of the diff when it gets some temperature while driving.
I also use the ride tires, with which the car drives like a train


I hope,that Tamiya will release an new FF chassis in the future.
I really like the FF feeling.
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Old 01-30-2018, 01:30 PM
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Some pics from today.





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Old 01-30-2018, 08:12 PM
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Here is my ff03r
Attached Thumbnails Tamiya FF03-3388c6d6-84d4-458e-a39c-70a3b0579389.jpeg  
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