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Old 04-19-2017, 01:45 PM   #2926
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This Peugeot for sure will look awesome! I hope you will find the time to build it soon and post the result here.

Meanwhile I made a very important tune. Not sure how much power this adds, but it must be a lot

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Old 10-09-2017, 10:38 AM   #2927
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Ff03 with a crZ body on Tamiya.com for 99$
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Old 10-09-2017, 10:50 AM   #2928
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wtcc View Post
This Peugeot for sure will look awesome! I hope you will find the time to build it soon and post the result here.

Meanwhile I made a very important tune. Not sure how much power this adds, but it must be a lot

Twin tips...? Make it un-driveable.
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Old 10-09-2017, 01:21 PM   #2929
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 4roller View Post
Ff03 with a crZ body on Tamiya.com for 99$
I paid $100.83 for mine last week.

While we're on the subject. What does a person need to know when building the FF03?
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Old 10-10-2017, 02:56 AM   #2930
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How to operate a screwdriver, and how to install shims to reduce play.
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Old 10-10-2017, 07:43 AM   #2931
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Insert screwdriver in left ear? Apply pinky to plastic and pray?

Shims.. I've got. On the subject of shims, I need to see if it's cheaper to have my own laser cut...
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Old 10-10-2017, 03:54 PM   #2932
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If you have access to a laser cutter *and* you don't have to pay the electric bill, it will almost certainly be cheaper.
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Old 10-11-2017, 12:19 AM   #2933
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it takes a special laser cutter to do stainless steel. We almost ordered one at the hackerspace..... That said, our 100w might be able to make a dent. I think I'll need to contract the job out, really. The prices for thin shims is pretty hilarious on mcmaster.
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Old 10-11-2017, 02:54 AM   #2934
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Don't forget about the awful fumes that come from vaporizing chromium.

Shims do cost way more than they're worth in time and materials, but there's something to be said for knowing they're all cut to the exact same size and shape, and are properly flat.
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Old 10-11-2017, 07:06 AM   #2935
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nerobro View Post
I paid $100.83 for mine last week.

While we're on the subject. What does a person need to know when building the FF03?
I have a build thread I started on the Tamiyaclub forums.
https://www.tamiyaclub.com/forum/ind...3-stock-build/
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Old 10-11-2017, 09:35 AM   #2936
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I have a build thread I started on the Tamiyaclub forums.
https://www.tamiyaclub.com/forum/ind...3-stock-build/
That's exactly what I was looking for. Thank you.
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Old 10-12-2017, 09:43 AM   #2937
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And it was darned useful.

I built my car last night. I left off the radio and servo tray. I used a short servo, and taped my ESC and reciever tot he side of the tub.

Speaking of the tub, my goodness that tub is soft. And the stock springs are hilariously stiff.

The ultimate goal of this car, for me, is to be a USGT car. As it stands, it's 100+ grams under the 4wd car weight. I'd like to take it a lot further.

I'm looking at aluminum, and titanium screws. And replacing all the steel turnbuckes with aluminum.

Is the 3 racing carbon chassis heavier? I'd like "stiffer" so the suspension can do it's job, but I also don't want to make this thing heavier.

I was just about to ask what a good body was. But there is a Mazda 6 body. FWD, good looking.. I think that's what I"ll go with.
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Old 10-12-2017, 03:07 PM   #2938
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Get the carbon-reinforced tub. It makes a big difference. I didn't find the stock springs to be too stiff, but I suppose it depends on whether you run on pavement that has actual bumps in it or not.
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Old 10-12-2017, 03:31 PM   #2939
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If I go to lift any corner of the chassis, the chassis flexes instead of the suspension moving. It's like when I had the "road - hard" springs in my mini. Both my M07 and TC4 are sprung much softer than this.

The chassis doesn't "settle down" on the suspension at all when loaded down. So there's no down travel at all. It just kinda sits on the limit screws.

The hard chassis is $44, the carbon, $63.. I wish I knew the weights, I'd definitely buy the lighter of the two.
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Old 10-13-2017, 08:40 AM   #2940
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Loosen the limit screws so the suspension can do its job.
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