Hot Bodies TCX

Old 06-08-2011, 03:10 PM
  #2986  
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Originally Posted by k_bojar
not sure if you really need the aluminum bearing holders - the plastic ones work just fine and the notch is significantly more noticable on the plastic then any of my other cyclones...

you have a belt tensioner - again, not really sure an aluminum one will get you much more performance

the kit bearings are actually very good - in my opinion - i'd say unless you run on a really dusty dirty track, just use the kit ones and replace with avid bearings when needed avid's can't be beat for $1/bearing for non-ceramic...really don't think a $200 set of bocca ceramic ones will improve the car all that much - but again, that's my opinion (and I'm kinda cheap )
The kit bearings were fine until they got worn out, i have had a set of dynamite rubber sealed in for a few months now and thye have held up well. I would def keep plastic diff holders, no need to have metal its just a waste. The kit belt tensions is fine. The cars really downside is the stock driveshafts and fragile plastic for suspension, a big bumper is a good idea and just replace stuff as it wears out or breaks.
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Old 06-08-2011, 03:14 PM
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Originally Posted by Mike Haynes
The kit bearings were fine until they got worn out, i have had a set of dynamite rubber sealed in for a few months now and thye have held up well. I would def keep plastic diff holders, no need to have metal its just a waste. The kit belt tensions is fine. The cars really downside is the stock driveshafts and fragile plastic for suspension, a big bumper is a good idea and just replace stuff as it wears out or breaks.
I just wouldn't replace the kit ones right off the bat - you should be able to get a few race days/months out of them

I normally replace all my bearings with rubber sealed - no matter what the 'fast guys' say about rubber sealed being slower
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Old 06-08-2011, 03:34 PM
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Exactly just replace as needed
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Old 06-08-2011, 04:44 PM
  #2989  
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Hi guys,
Here are the setup sheets from the Reedy race 2011.
Attached Files
File Type: pdf
Atsushi Hara Reedy 2011.pdf (370.0 KB, 479 views)
File Type: pdf
Ty Tessmann Reedy 2011.pdf (370.3 KB, 431 views)
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Old 06-08-2011, 05:25 PM
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cool, thanks
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Old 06-08-2011, 05:49 PM
  #2991  
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You guys are right about not needing alot of the things that I stated that the kit came without,but like some of you guys that have to have everything purple and and all the wires black,I like precision components,as far as waiting for poorly made bearings to go out during a club main. Isn't worth the chance,I ordered Acer ceramic Moore speed kit for 89$ and they came in 1 day!I never ordered a tc but I got the 1st cyclone when it came out then ordered the Hara when ot first came out.so both those early cars just seem to come with a few more fancy parts,and since I'm old and not fast anymore I have more fun building than racing because I'm slow.
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Old 06-08-2011, 06:01 PM
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Originally Posted by hi-tech-redneck
You guys are right about not needing alot of the things that I stated that the kit came without,but like some of you guys that have to have everything purple and and all the wires black,I like precision components,as far as waiting for poorly made bearings to go out during a club main. Isn't worth the chance,I ordered Acer ceramic Moore speed kit for 89$ and they came in 1 day!I never ordered a tc but I got the 1st cyclone when it came out then ordered the Hara when ot first came out.so both those early cars just seem to come with a few more fancy parts,and since I'm old and not fast anymore I have more fun building than racing because I'm slow.
The stock ones aren't crap and they will last a while - but more power to you for spending $90 for a set of 12 bearings... That's way too much for me to spend on bearings that are expendable, but to each his own

Personally, I like avid - cheap and very dependable... The last set of them I had in my cyclone tc lasted me about 4 months and would have lasted longer if I didn't take it on a carpet that shedded like I haven't seen in years and carpet was inside the bearings...I am glad the were only a $1 bearing instead of that $90 set
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Old 06-08-2011, 07:16 PM
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Originally Posted by bigz
what's the geardiff?
A Modded Capricorn diff
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Old 06-08-2011, 07:36 PM
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yea it was 22 bearings not 12, check acers web site there on sale normally 119.00bucks! the last set i bought from acer back before the 2006 reedy race, and there still in my cyclone , without the pinion it freeking free spinns for about 20 plus seconds,still butterly smooth,my older black car i never put aftermarket bearing and it held up pretty good but i have blown out a few from that set,but they were of better quality than the ones in this kit,but i guess there trying to keep the kit cost down as wellover all still the best kit out there!
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Old 06-08-2011, 08:07 PM
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Talking about bearings, i'm still on my set of bearings that came stock almost a year ago and only one broke just then. And all that time they had to put up with the 3.5T and my abusive driving for about 12 hours a week, 3 weeks a month. Personally that's pretty awesome and I have my doubts that ceramic ones will give you any noticeable difference in performance. I just take my time, maintain them properly and they lasted ages.
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Old 06-08-2011, 08:57 PM
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Originally Posted by G4ZZ4
Nice man thort id share mine too also ive dyed some spurs
I try again , why is steering tuurned up side down ??
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Old 06-08-2011, 09:15 PM
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Originally Posted by HB-forever
I try again , why is steering tuurned up side down ??
what do you mean turned upside down?

the pivot balls go on the underside of the knuckles
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Old 06-08-2011, 09:39 PM
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The HPI/HB bearings are actually a very high quality steel, metal shielded bearing. I notice they have pretty tight tolerances and don't get as sloppy as some other bearings I've used.
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Old 06-08-2011, 09:44 PM
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Heee's baaaack???? Is it true??
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Old 06-08-2011, 10:33 PM
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Originally Posted by k_bojar
what do you mean turned upside down?

the pivot balls go on the underside of the knuckles
If you look at the 2 arms on the chassis , they are close to the chassis , but in the manual they schould be close to the top plate

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