jmackani

iTrader: (14)

I only run boosted 17.5 and they are fine.

Dog Bone

iTrader: (4)

A pro driver at a recent race I participated in switched to the pro-d steel drive shafts simply because the aluminum ones were just not up to the task. And he didn't hit *anything*.

This was after he replaced one aluminum drive shaft as the ball-end was starting to deform, and two quallies later, one of them broke. The aluminum drive shafts just aren't strong enough.

This was in the 13.5 Boosted class....

mangoman

iTrader: (11)

You will probably find even clipping a dome/kerb and jumping in the air/landing will put a lot of stress on the unis with a spool in there.

jmackani

iTrader: (14)

I must have the special ones that have no issues yet then. Then again, I am not a pro either.

jmackani

iTrader: (14)

No disagreement on the spool part.

k_bojar

iTrader: (30)

ok - got a crazy question...

i thought I saw this in the thread, but can't search and find to save my life

did I see someone say that they use TOP pivot balls because they are longer then the HB ones?? this would be to help take out some of the slack in the suspension arms???

am i going nuts?!?!?!??

thanks

olhipster1

iTrader: (102)

I've been using the Top Links and pivot ball system on the car...removed 90% of the slop...
Used the short Top Photon ball ends and Lunsford TI rods.

Steering rack - file about .25 mil from the inner links, each one, other wise may bind.
* make sure to locktite the screws let dry then place the capture ball and torq down.
Can't put the Top pivot ball on the inner camber links...(or at least I didn't want to take the chance of it becoming loose). I will try to use a low profile 3mm screw from the bottom of the camber plate, just needs to clear the spool.

only thing left is to buy the shim kit for the steering rack and all slop will removed.
All together spent about $35 bucks....2 pack of links 2 packs of pivot balls and 3mm screws and TI Rods

bukil

iTrader: (39)

We use the tc5 lunsford titanium turnbuckle kit w/ losi jrxs type r islets. No slop.
HB ballstuds work with this combo.

k_bojar

iTrader: (30)

I'm sorry, I didn't make myself clear But I like some of those suggestions

I meant in the lower suspension arm pivot blocks - the ones that attach to the chassis, the ones that hold the suspension arms to the chassis

Yokomo_Ant3

iTrader: (29)

Found this photo from the DHI cup, someone got crafty Lots of yokomo parts there

olhipster1

iTrader: (102)

just use .25 shims....and all arm front to back slop will be gone.
I wouldn't want to remove the ability to adjust the arm so I would keep that to original specs.
I think you're probably talking about the TOP parts for the old car "Scythe", but thought most the suspension parts for that car were the PRO4, Cyclone parts.

Marcel

Yep, that's my car, i fitted a yokomo gear diff during the DHI CUP.
I'm also using the yokomo steering arms, just to get more steering in thight corners. The car worked very well in the finals...just missed a better result because of my bad driving in the qualifing
regards
Marcel

Hugh Jazz

iTrader: (4)

What belts did you use?

Stephen_102

I have been trying to get a 416 Spec R Gear Diff but cant seem to find one. I know there is a post detailing exactly what you need when fitting the 416 version, can someone please advise what is needed when fitting a BD5 Spec R Gear diff as these seem easier to get.
Thanks in advance

dawgmeat

iTrader: (9)

Is that a custom chassis