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Old 03-30-2010, 03:14 PM   #1
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Default Newbie getting into 1/10 or 1/12 PAN car

I would like to give electric racing a try, I have been running ( not racing ) nitro for several year, but I still consider myself a newbie in the RC sport. , anyway I would like to get into 1/12 pan car racing because it is clean and indoors. I would like any suggestion on a motor ( brushed/brushless ) and ESC for a newbie ( I dont need alot of power for now).
also any suggestion on website with info on Motors, esc and such, thanks
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Old 03-30-2010, 03:58 PM   #2
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I am building a 12 scale right now. I am somewhat new to racing too. For an ESC get yourself a Tekin RS. There is so many things that ESC can do. Motor wise I am doing a 21.5. 12 scale is fast no matter what motor is in there. As you get better go with a faster motor.
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Old 03-30-2010, 09:33 PM   #3
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yes get a Tekin RS with a Tekin motor and check your local tracks if they do any 17.5 or 13.5 stock racing. those are the most common and a little more managable then mod. that tekin speed control still makes those motors fast but you can dial it back for some more runtime while you get used to it. 1/12 is awesome because it is so minimalist and yet performs amazingly well. its also one of the less expensive racing classes. if you are in the USA then i would recommend getting a team associated rc12r5.1. easy to get parts for and you cant go wrong with the current world champ car. associated has always done well in 1/12. big thing is if you have not done any electric before then it is going to be a beat of an expensive entry into any electric racing since you will need some batteries and a good charger.
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Old 03-30-2010, 09:45 PM   #4
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Yes i agree on the tekin rs/ rs pro, 1 speed control and your good to go for a long time. Just upgrade the software on the esc and its as good as new!!!!
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Old 03-30-2010, 10:06 PM   #5
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There is nothing wrong with the Associated 1/12th car, but CRC GenX has lots of championships to its name and BMI has a new 1/12th car called the Copperhead which is built to run lipo. This is a beautiful and very capable car. Here are some links to have a look at including the Associated car mentioned in the above post and the Serpent 1/12th car.

http://www.redrc.net/2010/03/bmi-cop...lipo-pan-cars/
http://www.teamcrc.com/crc/modules.p...prodID=7719062
http://67.199.85.166/main/productdet...ory=2000.onele
http://www.serpent.com/product/410001
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Old 03-30-2010, 10:14 PM   #6
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Riviere you have PM...
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Old 03-31-2010, 07:43 AM   #7
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I am also new to 12th scale. What about the less expensive esc options, like the novak 1S havoc and the Castle mamba max pro 1cell version. These both have some advantages that I see.
The Havoc 1S has the smart boost built in so no receiver pack or external booster is necessary and is only $100. The downside is it can only be used with 1S and is rather big.
The Castle MMP 1 cell version is appealing cause it is very versitle (1-6S operation), lots of programming options, and ~$130. The downside is it needs a voltage booster or receiver pack.
Also, is it an option to run a normal esc with the novak voltage booster but disconnect the red wire from the esc signal harness? Novak shows the method in there alternative wiring setup.
TIA
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Old 03-31-2010, 08:03 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rara View Post
I am also new to 12th scale. What about the less expensive esc options, like the novak 1S havoc and the Castle mamba max pro 1cell version. These both have some advantages that I see.
The Havoc 1S has the smart boost built in so no receiver pack or external booster is necessary and is only $100. The downside is it can only be used with 1S and is rather big.
The Castle MMP 1 cell version is appealing cause it is very versitle (1-6S operation), lots of programming options, and ~$130. The downside is it needs a voltage booster or receiver pack.
Also, is it an option to run a normal esc with the novak voltage booster but disconnect the red wire from the esc signal harness? Novak shows the method in there alternative wiring setup.
TIA
The problem with the Novak option is that they are quite large,and slow in 12th 1S
The Castle is fast, but it's HUGE for a 12th scale, and will be difficult to install and fit under the modern low bodies.

The best esc for 12th at the moment is the Tekin RS, but you will need a voltage booster, and a hotwire or some help from the track locals that have one.

Another esc I would recommend is the new LRP SXXSS, this has the voltage booster built in. LRP are having some issues with the early release ver of this speedo, but they have a great track record and should have that sorted out soon, look for the mk3 ver of this speedo when making your purchase.

As for which chassis to run.
I prefer the 12R5.1, this is an easy car to build, it's made for 1S, and works great out of the box.

Having said that, the best option sometimes is to use what the majority of the track locals run, as there will be plenty of help available from drivers that allready have the car up to speed.
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Old 03-31-2010, 08:51 AM   #9
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A local 12th scale just opened here locally and there has been a bunch of cars tried. Most guys here are running Gen X or XL. There are a couple of 12.5's, but the fastest driver went from the 12 to the XL and loves it. I'm running an XL and love it over the 12r5 I first tried. The most important thing is to find tire combo's that fit your driving style and surface. I don't like the 12r's because the trailing arms have no protection and can easily get broken. Its a cheap easy fix, but not if it knocks you out of the race...

As far as ESC's go, most are running the havoc 1s if they are running lipo, but some are having major issues(glitch, programming, failures). A few went and raced on a much bigger track and found they needed a better ESC. A guy running an RS/13.5 novak, was easily out running a havoc 1S/10.5 ballistic on the larger track. I'm currently running 1s lipo with Novak GTB/smartboost/13.5 or 10.5. The local track is short(average 8 second laps!) I'm an old skool Novak fan, but I'm REEEEEALY wanting an RS and so is everyone else now...
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Old 03-31-2010, 10:27 AM   #10
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Does the RS series have lipo cutoff for 1S operation?

EDIT: If I understand correctly the Novak booster has a 1S cutoff.
So to properly run an RS on 1S:
1.) Wire it up with a Novak Booster
2.) Run it in 'NiMH mode'
3.) Keep the esc switch off
The booster will power everything through the receiver including the esc even though the switch is off? This allows the booster to cutoff the esc when the voltage drops.

Last edited by Rara; 03-31-2010 at 02:12 PM. Reason: I think I answered my own question.
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Old 03-31-2010, 01:44 PM   #11
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No and they do not power the receiver. You either have to run a booster that will run the receiver/servo and do lipo cut off or run a separate pack for the receiver and do lipo cutoff in your head
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Old 03-31-2010, 01:51 PM   #12
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oops.
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Old 03-31-2010, 03:01 PM   #13
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if using a voltage booster is your issue with the newer 1S lipo setups, than i would say go with the LRP SXX stock spec. as the other guys said, the internal BEC will run 1S packs without a voltage booster.

Another cheaper option you may want to consider since your new to 1/12 scale is to use the Novak GTB 4 cell esc. i personally used this esc in my BMI DB12R without a capactior or a voltage booster with the 1S packs with no issues. the servo and transponder worked flawless and counted every lap no problem! only problem is with this esc, once you get pulled down the straight by a tekin or LRP than... well LOL
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