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Old 04-16-2004, 11:11 PM   #16
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I think you can disable the reverse just as you can with most reversible speedos - connect positive lead to motor directly from battery and leave the motor "+" coming from speedo disconnected. That is, connect the thing as you would with any non-reversible 3-lead competition ESC and isolate the 4th (motor +) lead of ESC. This has worked with more ESCs than I can remember. You'll still have brakes and as a bonus the ESC resistance will be half of original (as the "+" row of FETs is not used). Note: this does not mean the ESC will handle double the current!
The reason why this works is that most of reversible ESCs have the same logic as fwd/brk ESCs - during most of the time motor+ is directly connected to battery+, gas and brakes are done by changing the voltage on motor- lead (negative for gas, positive for brakes). For reverse the motor+ lead is just switched from full+ to full-, so if you don't use this lead, but connect + to motor directly from battery, bingo, no reverse.
I can't guarantee that all ESC's work like that, but it has worked on all I've tried (>10 different over the years). Anyway, it won't do any harm, even if it doesn't work, so it's worth to try.

About setup- I think you can download the user manuals at http://www.lrp-electronic.de/
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Old 04-17-2004, 11:52 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally posted by olev
I think you can disable the reverse just as you can with most reversible speedos - connect positive lead to motor directly from battery and leave the motor "+" coming from speedo disconnected. That is, connect the thing as you would with any non-reversible 3-lead competition ESC and isolate the 4th (motor +) lead of ESC. This has worked with more ESCs than I can remember. You'll still have brakes and as a bonus the ESC resistance will be half of original (as the "+" row of FETs is not used). Note: this does not mean the ESC will handle double the current!
The reason why this works is that most of reversible ESCs have the same logic as fwd/brk ESCs - during most of the time motor+ is directly connected to battery+, gas and brakes are done by changing the voltage on motor- lead (negative for gas, positive for brakes). For reverse the motor+ lead is just switched from full+ to full-, so if you don't use this lead, but connect + to motor directly from battery, bingo, no reverse.
I can't guarantee that all ESC's work like that, but it has worked on all I've tried (>10 different over the years). Anyway, it won't do any harm, even if it doesn't work, so it's worth to try.

About setup- I think you can download the user manuals at http://www.lrp-electronic.de/
I don't know if that setup will work as well as with the reverseable control. If it's already programed with reverse, then i would say leave it. Just buy a new one. Your might break it. Better off just leaving it. Or your can go o your local hobby stire and ask them about it.
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Old 04-19-2004, 08:48 AM   #18
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Already set? Do you mean that when you put it in a new car, with a new receiver, using a new radio, that is already has the max throttle, brake and center already set up? What is the setup button for if it is already set up?

The set up button does what if that is true?

If it is not already set, then what? How do I set it up?

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Old 04-19-2004, 09:02 AM   #19
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Thanks Olev, that sounds like a very post. I think that I am going to end up with a few runners, and I will be able to try that. I did go to the LRP site to that those downloads.

Much appreciated.

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Old 04-19-2004, 01:40 PM   #20
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set up on the runner is easy...place a small scredriver in the setup hole and press the button ........the green light will start blinking.........go full trottle then netrul then full brake then angain nutreal nad hit steup booton agian...........works on first try everytime........i have on in my little stauim truck.....also add this to your favsrunner instrution guide
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