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Old 09-15-2004, 08:57 AM   #1381
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Yeh, I think I may do that with my F201 (primary race car) because I usually race with a 23 turn type S, but we have to run with sports tuned babies at this track. I figure, I may as well mess up the comm on a motor that I can properly maintain, as well as getting to know the track well at the higher speeds!
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Old 09-15-2004, 12:03 PM   #1382
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Quote:
Originally posted by EVOtech
So, I'm nearly there...

WB shortened by 4mm
40/40 oil as before
Yellows rear Schu blues front
Camberlinks per kit (nothing wrong and no spacers needed)
Left front blocks A/A but gave 2 deg toe out
Caster still 2 deg
RH 6.5R, 6.0F
Droop sets at 3/2.5
gearing 31/96

Put the KR 7*2 in......... blimey!!!!!

Any thoughts on swapping ends under brakes? Maybe unbalanced shocks?
I wonder why it is that people such as JDM and other experienced people seem to just ignore posts like this asking for setup advice
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Old 09-15-2004, 12:20 PM   #1383
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Quote:
Originally posted by EVOtech
I wonder why it is that people such as JDM and other experienced people seem to just ignore posts like this asking for setup advice
I speak for myself but I can honestly say that I am an inexperienced Evo4 user

Try resetting your front toe to 0degrees. As it is now, toe-out will make your car turn in more aggressivly and have a slight understeer coming out. Having that much toe-out, along with 100% brakes, plus a one-way, and maybe a little tweak, will cause ANY car to spin out under hard braking. When I run a oneway I reduce my brakes so that the rear end doesn't skip out when braking in a straight line...then I kick it up 10%-15% so that I can use it for emergencies. Other than that, I hardly ever use brakes when driving with a oneway.

Also, and this has nothing to do with setup, but you seem to be overgeared for a 7x2.
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Old 09-15-2004, 12:33 PM   #1384
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I wonder why it is that people such as JDM and other experienced people seem to just ignore posts like this asking for setup
Along with what Rod has commented even having the car 6 weeks. It would be tough to pinpoint an exact cause for problems. Alot of us are still working through the options to see how the car reacts along with where its happy place is.

This along with running the 415 to find its happy place with all the new suspension. We are here to help but also look for ideas from you guys and listen to what your testing with set-ups had yielded. So far there has been a lack of activity of people posting their experiences here also.
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Old 09-15-2004, 12:55 PM   #1385
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Quote:
Originally posted by Difuser
Along with what Rod has commented even having the car 6 weeks. It would be tough to pinpoint an exact cause for problems. Alot of us are still working through the options to see how the car reacts along with where its happy place is.

This along with running the 415 to find its happy place with all the new suspension. We are here to help but also look for ideas from you guys and listen to what your testing with set-ups had yielded. So far there has been a lack of activity of people posting their experiences here also.
ian TQ'ed expert stock and sportsman mod with his 415 and EvoIV... altho his evoIV died when a drive cup broke... his car seems to be working real well.. hit him up dan!
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Old 09-15-2004, 01:29 PM   #1386
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Quote:
Originally posted by Difuser
Along with what Rod has commented even having the car 6 weeks. It would be tough to pinpoint an exact cause for problems. Alot of us are still working through the options to see how the car reacts along with where its happy place is.

This along with running the 415 to find its happy place with all the new suspension. We are here to help but also look for ideas from you guys and listen to what your testing with set-ups had yielded. So far there has been a lack of activity of people posting their experiences here also.
To add to this as well, please take note that one setup will not work for all tracks. That is why some of us hesitate as this might not work for your condition. To give a good example, I was running my 415 with Evo3 blocks on a track Victoria BC and it was on rails, but when I used the same setup on another track, the cars was so loose. With that, I would suggest to use the base setup in the manual then adjust accordingly. If I was running in the same track as another guy asking for setup advise, only then I can be more effective with providing help.

Cheers.
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Old 09-15-2004, 05:48 PM   #1387
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Quote:
Originally posted by EVOtech
I wonder why it is that people such as JDM and other experienced people seem to just ignore posts like this asking for setup advice
I don't run Mod (not with this car). Only 19t and Stock. Perhaps then I could offer some advice. But I'll give some anyways.. (I always skip setups people post since my track is different anyways). Brake in a straight line with a oneway. Adjust radio so that when you apply full brake (in a straight line) it won't lock up the rear wheels... but just slow it down. With oneway, you should coast into a turn. Not brake into it. If you want to brake into a turn.. get a spool or diff. Or learn brake/finger control and brake lightly. High speed turns... let off before the turn... then pull throttle through the whole turn. Low speed turns... let off into the turn and pull throttle coming out. Try those basic techniques. Oneways drive differently than diffs or spools...
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Old 09-16-2004, 02:31 AM   #1388
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Thanks for all your input.

I wasn't being bitchy about it, just an observation really. I know that different setups work differently at diferent tracks. All I wanted to know was a ballpark stable setup for an average tarmac track.

The toe out was recommended by TRFracer, altghough that was for an Evo3, not a 4. The agressive turn in might be an advantage, might not. It will be a pain to take out as I still have the horrid Tamiya turnbuckles in this one. The Tech ones haven't got here yet.

based on tests so far, the gearing seems about right with the 7. It doesn't get stressed. The track will tell all though.

Saying the turnbuckles are horrid puts them with the drivecups. This is just my own personal opinion, so if there are others that love the turnbuckles and don't screw the flimsy drivecups, then don't get upset.

My delrin ones survived a whole meeting, which is better than the 20 laps the Tamiya rear one did.

R10 allegedly has the Square rear uprights (another somewhat flimsy part in standard) but I haven't seen them on their list yet. They say they are out of the Bomber carbon propshafts. I had the last one.

Square have designed a rear drivecup/shaft assembly for it and there is a pic on their site.
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Old 09-16-2004, 10:01 AM   #1389
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Greetings everyone,

Currently I'm running a 415 and enjoying it. I've been thinking about getting an EvoiV. I've read thought some of the thread pages and noticed that people are having a hard time with shaft outdrives. I was wondering if there are any other weak points, besides the shaft outdrives, I need to know about and prepare for. Any statements on building difficulties would be appreciated also.

Cheerz
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Old 09-16-2004, 10:24 AM   #1390
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Hi Guys,

We should have all the new square EVO IV hop-ups in by next week, and also the Ride MK I, II, and III bodies.

Also, Yokomo and Rayspeed have some new bodies as well (which they will run at the worlds!)

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Old 09-16-2004, 10:47 AM   #1391
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Quote:
Originally posted by SpeedTech
Hi Guys,

We should have all the new square EVO IV hop-ups in by next week, and also the Ride MK I, II, and III bodies.

Also, Yokomo and Rayspeed have some new bodies as well (which they will run at the worlds!)

Steve Wang
Hows about an Evo4 spool? I suppose an Evo3 one would do if such a beast exists?

I suppose I could flood a spare one-way with glue??
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Old 09-16-2004, 10:48 AM   #1392
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Quote:
Originally posted by EVOtech
Hows about an Evo4 spool? I suppose an Evo3 one would do if such a beast exists?

I suppose I could flood a spare one-way with glue??
The dimensions of the EVO4 and EVO3 are very similar, so our manufacture is already working ont he EVO 4 spool.

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Old 09-16-2004, 11:39 AM   #1393
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Default Drive cups

For the drive cups one of the locals had the propshaft screw in the front diff assembly back out and lock the car up. This was at full throttle down the straight with a V2 10/2.

IT ripped the drive cup on the rear 'box. Not having spares we took inspiration from EVO.

We bent the torn part back close. Then CA'd the broken torn area. After the CA kicked we filed in a slot around the diameter of the cup and slipped a diff/axle retainer ring around the cup. The local was able to finish the weekend on the repair.

Pre-tear I have filed in a slot on the factory cups to help in this same issue. The slot is necessary to keep it from binding the pins on the driveshaft.
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Old 09-16-2004, 11:54 AM   #1394
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Quote:
Originally posted by SpeedTech
The dimensions of the EVO4 and EVO3 are very similar, so our manufacture is already working ont he EVO 4 spool.

Steve Wang
I don't see an Evo3 one on your site. Anyway, if it comes without a ring gear, an Evo3 one would do.
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Old 09-16-2004, 11:55 AM   #1395
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Default Re: Drive cups

Quote:
Originally posted by Difuser
For the drive cups one of the locals had the propshaft screw in the front diff assembly back out and lock the car up. This was at full throttle down the straight with a V2 10/2.

IT ripped the drive cup on the rear 'box. Not having spares we took inspiration from EVO.

We bent the torn part back close. Then CA'd the broken torn area. After the CA kicked we filed in a slot around the diameter of the cup and slipped a diff/axle retainer ring around the cup. The local was able to finish the weekend on the repair.

Pre-tear I have filed in a slot on the factory cups to help in this same issue. The slot is necessary to keep it from binding the pins on the driveshaft.
See my delrin cup mod, somewhat earlier, or wait for Square metal ones.
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