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Old 08-16-2005, 01:08 PM   #3076
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Yes. Search my previous posts. These forums allow you to search within a thread too. The carpet setup I posted is killer and is for Stockton, CA which is a track with an insane amount of bite.
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Old 08-16-2005, 04:34 PM   #3077
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Thanks so ever much, it's greatly appreciated!!!!
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Old 08-17-2005, 04:43 AM   #3078
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fraz
I have run a Redline 8x1 and Pole Position batts (serious horsepower) for an entire season and had minimal problems with my bevel gears.

1) You can run the plastic gear or the Tamiya aluminum one, I really don't think it matters. I ran the aluminum one with my oneway and the plastic one for spool and diffs. I ran the aluminum one and the oneway almost all of the time and on super high bite carpet too.

2) Set the mesh/backlash so there is only a very small "tick" of play and that the full surface area of the teeth are contacting each other and not touching the shoulder of the molded gear.

3) Use blue Loctite 242 on the set screw for the crown gear and make sure it is tightened all the way into the shaft.

4) My special patented trick - Take a needle as an applicator and some CA glue and fill the 2 voids in the back of the [smaller] crown gear. Let it dry completely for 1/2 day, then do it again. It may take 3 times to get it full and dried all the way to the top but I think it is worth the time. I'm sure you get the idea is to beef up the gear and it seems to work. I smoked one of these but it was because the screw backed out (no Loctite) and the pin in the driveshaft melted it.
Thanks for the tips Fraz! Much appreciated
I will try the points above including your patented trick. I am still searching for all round metal gears though. Since I'm running on a brushless motor/11.1v lithium battery strengthwise my plastic gears can't really keep up -- It's like installing plastic gears on a nitro car. Believe me even with properly fitted gears, I've already stripped the rear ones bald
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Old 08-17-2005, 10:59 AM   #3079
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Key
I am still searching for all round metal gears though. Since I'm running on a brushless motor/11.1v lithium battery strengthwise my plastic gears can't really keep up -- It's like installing plastic gears on a nitro car. Believe me even with properly fitted gears, I've already stripped the rear ones bald
My main class I run is 1/8 scale nitro with the biggest horsepower of anything and we run nothing but plastic gears. The aluminum ones wear out and cause problems. Same with shaft driven nitro cars like the NTC3. They have a harder plastic or nylon ring gear and they hold up just fine with 1.5+HP. There are no crown gears but you can get the Tamiya aluminum one.

IMO, using 11V+ LiPo setup is not appropriate for what most cars are designed to handle. If you wan't to use that kind of horsepower, perhaps a belt driven car would handle it better. I think that most pro mod racers running 8x1 and 7x1 motors are really pushing the limits with 7.2V.
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Old 08-18-2005, 05:46 AM   #3080
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Yes, I agree on that for top speed 1/8 nitro maybe, but accel : no way !

So far to increase speed the majority of people are programmed to think that by running low turn motors eg: a 7x1 with 7.2v 3xxx's is the supreme way to gain speed. A hot setup for "backintheday" technology - but in this case, the motor/esc would become too hot and may even thermal. Now, if you were to go brushless using 12-14 turn (approx 1/2 rpm) and double voltage... essentially similar performance but with much much higher efficiency - plus you can gear taller w/o thermalling. Not to mention supplying your motor with lightweight Lipo juice adds to longer runtimes (20mins avg on mine). Keeping this setup in mind: Low weight, low amp and high voltage = high efficiency and IMO is definitely an "appropriate" way to go. You are going to have a grin a mile wide!

I try to take advantage of the lipo's higher voltage than the regular Nicad and Nimh, while maximizing on the efficiency of the brushless motor. I also use the high rpm produced by the brushless pushed to its maximum by using a low FDR that will maintain a decent high speed while keeping the Amp draw under control.

For myself, the most efficient pack I can use is a 4S-14.8 volt, because this is the most volt my esc can take. More volt = ability to get more rpm from motor = lower gearing for a given speed = less amp draw = more efficiency. Again, the more reason why I would need to stregthen the Evo4 drivetrain.
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Last edited by Key; 08-18-2005 at 05:56 AM.
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Old 08-18-2005, 04:08 PM   #3081
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fraz
Yes. Search my previous posts. These forums allow you to search within a thread too. The carpet setup I posted is killer and is for Stockton, CA which is a track with an insane amount of bite.
Okay, guess I've gone stupid in my old age, but I can't find that setup post of yours for high bite carpet anywhere!! And I've even went to the extent of going from page to page.
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Old 08-18-2005, 04:29 PM   #3082
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Quote:
Originally Posted by John Warner
Okay, guess I've gone stupid in my old age, but I can't find that setup post of yours for high bite carpet anywhere!! And I've even went to the extent of going from page to page.
'Tis all good. I looked and it is post #1760 and on my config it is page #59. If you have a different number of posts per page in your config, it may be different. The susp. mount spacers I used were not actually 2mm. They were .85mm x 2 so it was more accurately 1.7mm instead of 2mm. Likewise in the front the measurement should read .85mm instead of 1mm.

If you have any questions, please ask and I will help clarify.
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Old 08-19-2005, 09:54 PM   #3083
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fraz.....

Man I really appreciate you going to all that trouble. I tried several times without any success. I have it now and will be giving it at try either this weekend or next.

Once again.... Thank you!!!!
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Old 08-22-2005, 07:38 PM   #3084
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I'm sorry to keep bothering everybody but.....

I'm sure this has been covered at length but maybe someone can be kind enough to give me an answer to this question..... How in the world do you mount 28mm foam tires on this car? I had an EVO III, and had to use a spacer on each front wheel, but that doesn't work on the EVO IV.
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Old 08-22-2005, 08:08 PM   #3085
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Silver 6mm wheel hexes. Parma Foams (Jaco's are different offset). And the 415 Worlds narrow suspension blocks to make the car 190mm legal. That or Pro4 front spindles will clear 28mm foams.
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Old 08-22-2005, 08:25 PM   #3086
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Holy cow, that's quite a bit of changing! Will the EVO III spindles work? And if I used the Pro4 spindles, are they a direct replacment, or will I need to alter them to make them work?

ThanX!

Quote:
Originally Posted by KilRuf
Silver 6mm wheel hexes. Parma Foams (Jaco's are different offset). And the 415 Worlds narrow suspension blocks to make the car 190mm legal. That or Pro4 front spindles will clear 28mm foams.
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Old 08-22-2005, 09:41 PM   #3087
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No, EvoIII spindles won't work. Pro4 spindles are semi~direct replacement. You'll need the Pro4 spindles. Bearings to fit the spindles. Pro4 axles with RaySpeed BD CVD bones or 414/TA04/EvoIII axles with tons of shims. And a shim to space the Pro4 spindle properly. I can't remember what else. I think it's just easier with the 6mm wheel hexes and suspension mounts.

Anyways, it's been awhile since I'm run 28mm foams. So don't directly quote me on this.... We don't run carpet til maybe November.
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Old 08-23-2005, 01:38 AM   #3088
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Quote:
Originally Posted by John Warner
I'm sorry to keep bothering everybody but.....

I'm sure this has been covered at length but maybe someone can be kind enough to give me an answer to this question..... How in the world do you mount 28mm foam tires on this car? I had an EVO III, and had to use a spacer on each front wheel, but that doesn't work on the EVO IV.
It's a lot easier than you think. When you have your tires chucked up on the lathe to cut, thin them down at the same time. Make sure you have the lathe rotation going the right way (away from you) and steady your hands on something solid like the table. Then just take an xacto blade to the inside edge of the tire and hold it there with a medium yet firm pressure. With a little practice you can cut 1 - 1.5mm off the width consistently. You only have to do this on the fronts.

Keep safety in mind and snap the tip of the xacto blade with a pair of pliers and make sure you wear safety glasses when you are doing any of this so you don't get hot rubber or metal in your eyes. I've done it and it sucks!

Feel free to bother away
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Old 08-23-2005, 10:08 PM   #3089
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Okay, last question I'll have for awhile.... I promise!! What blocks should I use to get close to zero toe in the rear? On the EVO III I ran a "C" block in the front, and the "A" block at the rear. Any suggestions???

Thanks one more time!!
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Old 08-24-2005, 06:30 AM   #3090
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if you have 0 deg hobs, just run the same blocks in the rear, fr same as rr.
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