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Old 07-29-2005, 12:38 PM   #3061
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hey guys, im intrested in buying an evo iv ms, iv been told its a better car to run on smaller tight tracks than my 415ms, is this true, if so why, and also how come none of the big racers see many of these as opposed to the 415?
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Old 07-30-2005, 07:55 AM   #3062
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My advise to anyone contemplating which is better between 415 and Evo4 would be that it totally depends on what type of racing you are intending on doing with it, Stock or Modified. If you are running Stock class, then I would suggest the Evo4 but if you were running Modified, then I would recommend the 415. Having used both chassis, this is the conclusion that I have made, and this is consistent with what the TRF drivers including Marc Rheinard have said.
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Old 07-30-2005, 10:41 AM   #3063
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well i generally run stock and 19t, the 2 tracks i go to are complete oppisite in size, one is a small and tight turned track wich my 415 seems to struggle on, and a large flowing track wich it runs well on. so im wondering if the evo iv would be more suited for this.
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Old 07-30-2005, 08:22 PM   #3064
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I think you'll find that they'll be relatively the same on a tightish track, just car setup needs to be changed on both to get best performance, like with any chassis.
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Old 07-31-2005, 08:57 PM   #3065
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Due to unfortunate circumstances, I have to sell my Kai Evo IV ms. Take a look below if you are interested.

http://www.rctech.net/forum/showthread.php?t=79590


Thanks,

Tim
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Old 08-06-2005, 02:51 PM   #3066
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Hi, does anyone have a good starting setup for the Evo4 MS on a reasonbly tight carpet track with foams.

Appologies if theres one already posted, but 103 pages is a bit too many to look through.

Also, whats the typical parts that break & would be worth having in the pit box.

Many thanks
OLI
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Old 08-10-2005, 06:24 AM   #3067
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hey guys, i just got the evo ms, does any body know the final drive ratio as it doesnt say it anywhere i can see in the manuel.
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Old 08-10-2005, 07:19 AM   #3068
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bigger Brother
Hi, does anyone have a good starting setup for the Evo4 MS on a reasonbly tight carpet track with foams.

Appologies if theres one already posted, but 103 pages is a bit too many to look through.

Also, whats the typical parts that break & would be worth having in the pit box.

Many thanks
OLI
first things i did with mine was to get a few spare diff gears. i tended to smash a few of these indoors. not to bad with a diff, but i only had a one-way or a spool and these tended to take most of the impact. apart from gears, i have only broke 1 rear hub in a year of racing it so its pretty strong.
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Old 08-10-2005, 07:26 AM   #3069
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Quote:
Originally Posted by odawg315
hey guys, i just got the evo ms, does any body know the final drive ratio as it doesnt say it anywhere i can see in the manuel.
internal ratio is 2.294
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Old 08-13-2005, 05:32 PM   #3070
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Question.....

Do any of you know if the sway bars and any of the suspension parts are the same for the EVO III and the IV??

ThanX!
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Old 08-14-2005, 07:14 PM   #3071
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Anybody?
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Old 08-14-2005, 07:44 PM   #3072
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I think the rear bars are but nothing else.
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Old 08-15-2005, 07:49 AM   #3073
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Hi I run a modified sensorless brushless on my evo4 and it is taking a heavy toll on my front and rear plastic gears. Anyone know of any aftermarket metal gears available out there? Any help would be appreciated, thanks.
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Old 08-15-2005, 11:01 AM   #3074
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I have run a Redline 8x1 and Pole Position batts (serious horsepower) for an entire season and had minimal problems with my bevel gears.

1) You can run the plastic gear or the Tamiya aluminum one, I really don't think it matters. I ran the aluminum one with my oneway and the plastic one for spool and diffs. I ran the aluminum one and the oneway almost all of the time and on super high bite carpet too.

2) Set the mesh/backlash so there is only a very small "tick" of play and that the full surface area of the teeth are contacting each other and not touching the shoulder of the molded gear.

3) Use blue Loctite 242 on the set screw for the crown gear and make sure it is tightened all the way into the shaft.

4) My special patented trick - Take a needle as an applicator and some CA glue and fill the 2 voids in the back of the [smaller] crown gear. Let it dry completely for 1/2 day, then do it again. It may take 3 times to get it full and dried all the way to the top but I think it is worth the time. I'm sure you get the idea is to beef up the gear and it seems to work. I smoked one of these but it was because the screw backed out (no Loctite) and the pin in the driveshaft melted it.
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Old 08-16-2005, 11:53 AM   #3075
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Okay, here's a question I'm sure has been asked before, but that's alot of pages to go through......

Does anybody have a good high bite carpet setup? Thanks in advance!

John
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