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Old 02-03-2005, 10:30 AM   #2566
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Custom carbon shaft extremely strong and half the weight of standard shaft made of uses roll wrapped Woven CF tube which is stronger then protruded ones, 7.5mm Diameter makes it extremely rigid. I maybe doing a limit production run if there is an interest .Tested with low wind motors and brushless motors for 5 months so durabitily is definately not an issue If interested pls pm me. The price will be lower then most carbon fiber shafts on the market as I am not profit orientated .
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Old 02-03-2005, 12:04 PM   #2567
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ooops sorry missed out all e picts
What kind of battery brace is that?
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Old 02-03-2005, 12:05 PM   #2568
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What kind of battery brace is that?
Never-mind, I read lower on the post ...
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Old 02-03-2005, 04:28 PM   #2569
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Selling my Evo IV as well, frankly it just doesnt perform as well as my RC-Labs GT3 Pro and is more fragile...

With the price they charge for it, it should definately be better out of the box...

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Old 02-04-2005, 09:08 PM   #2570
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I may not be an expert racer however I am a fairly good designer and frankly the design of the evo 4 is superior to most cars the only let down is the slop in the a arms . The evo 4 is still a world class racing machine of all the shaft drive cars I think it performs the best. It all has to do with the correct building and set up. TO say that it does not perform is truely a very untrue and unfair statement to make
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Old 02-04-2005, 10:18 PM   #2571
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Slop in arms? I don't have any slop in mine. Maybe your shimming is too loose?
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Old 02-05-2005, 12:43 AM   #2572
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You just need to get rid of the slop with shims liek Ruf says. I've done that and its not binding up or anything, working like a treat!! I love my car!
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Old 02-05-2005, 07:59 AM   #2573
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You wont need to shim the inner mounts on the arms, when you are tightening down the suspension block you can kind of guide it where you want it to go by pushing on either side or the whole thing. Outer mounts is a different store, shims come in to play there
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Old 02-06-2005, 01:39 AM   #2574
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Default EVO IV vs EVO III

Just wondering, without having to read through 2500 posts, is an EVO 4 that much of a beter car than say an EVO 3 SE?

also from those who have driven them both is the EVO 4 worth the extra $250 over a second hand, hardly used EVO 3 SE?

Thanks guys
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Old 02-07-2005, 01:09 AM   #2575
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Quote:
Originally posted by aluraeo
I may not be an expert racer however I am a fairly good designer and frankly the design of the evo 4 is superior to most cars the only let down is the slop in the a arms . The evo 4 is still a world class racing machine of all the shaft drive cars I think it performs the best. It all has to do with the correct building and set up. TO say that it does not perform is truely a very untrue and unfair statement to make
The car is well out of balance left to right with GP3300 cells, the front one way is okay for some, but doesnt suit the tight twisty track I race at, and Tamiya make you buy a ball diff as spares rather than sell one complete...

The battery ejects if you bump the car in anyway (with side by side cells) the centre plastic piece tweaks the chassis if you use it and the plastic drive cups shatter in a crash...

Personally I dont want to run 50g of lead extra just to balance the car left/right and as I said my RC-Labs GT3 Pro is much better for where I race..

It can be made to perform very well, but I dont wanna spend any more money when I can go faster with my other car

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Old 02-07-2005, 01:45 AM   #2576
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I've run both an EvoIII and EvoIV. I would say the EvoIV is the better car of the 2. At least for asphalt. I can't really speak for it on carpet. On asphalt, I don't run any of the center braces. I don't think they are necessary. It also has a better suspension for asphalt. Now I can't really say if it's worth $250 more than your deal with the EvoIII. The EvoIV doesn't come with all the sway bars you need. It doesn't come with all the different suspension blocks you need. And here are a few hopups you might like to get as well. Like aluminum input shafts and drive cups.
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Old 02-07-2005, 01:51 AM   #2577
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The evo4's main shaft has a bit of play in it, like it rocks back and forth... ever put an o-ring or a urethane bushing in either drive shaft cup?
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Old 02-07-2005, 01:55 AM   #2578
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Quote:
Originally posted by Galifrey
The car is well out of balance left to right with GP3300 cells, the front one way is okay for some, but doesnt suit the tight twisty track I race at, and Tamiya make you buy a ball diff as spares rather than sell one complete...

The battery ejects if you bump the car in anyway (with side by side cells) the centre plastic piece tweaks the chassis if you use it and the plastic drive cups shatter in a crash...

Personally I dont want to run 50g of lead extra just to balance the car left/right and as I said my RC-Labs GT3 Pro is much better for where I race..

It can be made to perform very well, but I dont wanna spend any more money when I can go faster with my other car

Galifrey, the problems you have can be fixed without much of an issue.

Like Kilruf, I don't run with any of the plastic support blocks either. To change a spur it can be a pain because of fitting the driveshaft in again.

The plastic drive cups are crappy of course so you get the aluminium ones, no big deal.

Battery coming out, get the Yokomo MR4-TC Graphite bar, ultra stiff and I've never had a battery come out, even after 4 months of racing with it!!

I also don't need to add any weights to my car, it sits pretty much right on 1500g already, with all the things I have on my car, like motor fan, etc.

The reasons why the RCLabs could be better may simply be that you haven't given the Evo IV a go enough. I absolutely love my car and I've never had an issue trying to be competitive with it. I've generally been in the top 3 everytime I've used it so GO EVO IV!!
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Old 02-07-2005, 01:57 AM   #2579
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Quote:
Originally posted by TRF Drive Hard
The evo4's main shaft has a bit of play in it, like it rocks back and forth... ever put an o-ring or a urethane bushing in either drive shaft cup?
With the tamiya aluminium drive cups they supply a black o ring to put inside it to reduce that slop. Its not really a big deal but its worth doing to keep things tight and smooth.
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Old 02-07-2005, 02:45 AM   #2580
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Quote:
Originally posted by F. Alonso
With the tamiya aluminium drive cups they supply a black o ring to put inside it to reduce that slop. Its not really a big deal but its worth doing to keep things tight and smooth.
i use the pink spongy thingy that goes in the shocks. i used a black o-ring before it got hard and brittle. the sponge stays soft and gives a bit more in a crash.
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