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Old 01-23-2005, 04:28 PM   #2491
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Does anyone know what kind of wing or have any pictures of the wing that comes with the Nismo 350Z?
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Old 01-23-2005, 09:52 PM   #2492
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i have the Xanavi version of the 350Z...not painted yet, tho. the wing resembles the wing on the Xanavi Skyline from last year... kinda flat, with a small lip. modified, of course, since it mounts to the rear of the 350... more like the wing from the Audi TT-R.
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Old 01-25-2005, 01:31 AM   #2493
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Anyone got any fixes for stopping the batteries coming out when using side by side cells...

Friday I failed 2 heats due to the cells coming out, and the second time the weight of the cells flying out wrenched my Novak GTX apart...

I have chamfered the battery slots a lot so they sit deeper, but still not happy with the battery clamp bar... Definately a huge weak spot...

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Old 01-25-2005, 02:46 AM   #2494
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I just went downstairs and lined up a stick pack in a new chassis I am building and the tape slots line up just fine. Forget the other heavy plastic, just tape them in. You can put one piece of tape lengthwise like I do with my side by side packs and I think there are even slots in the chassis to put in tape going the other way too.
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Old 01-25-2005, 03:55 AM   #2495
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Quote:
Originally posted by Galifrey
Anyone got any fixes for stopping the batteries coming out when using side by side cells...

Friday I failed 2 heats due to the cells coming out, and the second time the weight of the cells flying out wrenched my Novak GTX apart...

I have chamfered the battery slots a lot so they sit deeper, but still not happy with the battery clamp bar... Definately a huge weak spot...

i used abit of imagination and used foam pads and tapped them under the plastic battery strap. Then i used 3 plastic parts of *L* shaped and glued them on top of the plastic battery strap and then PVC taped for more security. the L shaped plastic acts as a fence to stop the battery from jumping out. so far no problems at all
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Old 01-25-2005, 04:45 AM   #2496
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Get a Yokomo MR4-TC Battery bar. They are the same size and are MUCH stronger. Plus.... take off the blue spacer on the battery mounting posts to keep a tighter fit.
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Old 01-25-2005, 07:08 AM   #2497
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Quote:
Originally posted by Galifrey
Anyone got any fixes for stopping the batteries coming out when using side by side cells...

Friday I failed 2 heats due to the cells coming out, and the second time the weight of the cells flying out wrenched my Novak GTX apart...

I have chamfered the battery slots a lot so they sit deeper, but still not happy with the battery clamp bar... Definately a huge weak spot...

Just use strapping tape. Much stronger and lighter. If your breaking batteries out then I would say your just hitting stuff too hard. I use tape and never had a battery eject from my EVO and I have had a few big hits with it.
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Old 01-25-2005, 10:18 AM   #2498
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Quote:
Originally posted by wyd
Just use strapping tape. Much stronger and lighter. If your breaking batteries out then I would say your just hitting stuff too hard. I use tape and never had a battery eject from my EVO and I have had a few big hits with it.
Just let me drive it. I can make your battery tape fail!
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Old 01-25-2005, 11:11 PM   #2499
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TTT!
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Old 01-25-2005, 11:56 PM   #2500
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Yeh, I had the battery tape split on me also and I really didn't trust it so for reliability sake, go for the std mounting hardware without the blue spacer, and get a Yokomo MR4-TC Battery Bar/Plate set and you will be laughing. I actually got the graphite one and I've NEVER EVER had my batteries come out since. Go for gold with those things!!

BTW guys, I just got back from the Team Orion Australian Summernats where I met Surikarn, etc and I also raced in the Stock Class with my Evo IV. We had a whopping 78 entrants into the class with some Mod boys moving into Stock for the meet and I put my Evo IV on P2 overall and after leading the first half of the first race, my rear foams chunked causing my car to traction roll about 4 times and stripping a spur gear. From there, the car just lacked the pace at the front and I consequently finished 7th overall, despite getting a 3rd in the last race.

The Moral of the story - Evo IV is certainly up for racing. Anybody who discounts it should be shot. I am still, yet to lose against a 415!!
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Old 01-26-2005, 04:21 AM   #2501
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i notice something really odd with my evo 4.....

when i turn my wheels extreme right the right wheel turns in an ugly ragged way. might be hitting something. does anyone of you have this problem? my set-up is really good but im worried as this might affect my runs on our friday club race.
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Old 01-26-2005, 04:23 AM   #2502
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simon,

do you have a soluton to my problem posted below?

bout your car pushing when using a front ball diff, you can probably loosen the rear diff and tighten the front diff. this way, the front wheel will bite ahead of the rear wheel and this will make the car handle better. the push you experience will be eliminated.
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Old 01-26-2005, 04:26 AM   #2503
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good for you simon....id be very happy to meet the pros. i hope they will visit us here in the philippines soon. among all others, id like to meet the nmotor guru of team orion. i hear that he is the best!
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Old 01-26-2005, 07:22 AM   #2504
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Quote:
Originally posted by PIIHB!
Just let me drive it. I can make your battery tape fail!
Yes if you Canatee me!!!!!! As long as you use two wraps of good strapping tape batteries won't fall out and if they did then the car is more than likely broken anyways.

If you are pushing with the front diff in then I would use more caster. The car comes with 4 stock so I would use Tamiya 1mm spacers under the front block to give the car more caster and you will get more offpower steering but might loose a little high speed steering.
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Old 01-26-2005, 11:36 PM   #2505
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Coolio,

I haven't tried a ball diff in the front of my car for AGES, since I first tried the Evo with a Mod Motor. I have been really happy with the oneway and the only thing I think I might try is a spool. I made one up using a spare reinforced diff with sandpaper inbetween the plates and balls like Wyd did and its great. Yet to try it but at the track we're currently racing at, there is a mix of guys running spools and oneways.

Will get back to you on all that. When I initially tried the Ball diff I also had 2 degree castor blocks in it and really they aren't that great for our track. Also..... I have never encountered a problem that you have had with your steering. Just make sure that none of the ball cups are on an angle that could impede on the steering movement on the balls. You may want to try a different ackerman spot on the upright to see if that helps but without seeing the car its hard to see exactly what you mean. Do you think you could get a picture to us??
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