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Old 01-04-2005, 10:33 PM   #2356
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doesnt the evo 4 come with all those alluminum blue bits like the suspension mounts etc.. ? booooooooooo!!!

does the kit come with spurs and pinions?
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Old 01-04-2005, 11:12 PM   #2357
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Kit does NOT come with toe blocks. You only want to change the rear toe blocks so if you want all options, get another A, B, C, D + X. I only think that Block C + A is really necessary at least for the start as that way you will have 1 degree, 2 degree and 3 degree options.

Plastic clear covers I have were an option part from Flap. Tamiya do make one but its SERIOUSLY limited, only to a hobby show in fact.

The kit does come with 2 spurs, 90 and 96. Front Oneway gear is not so important. Aluminium center cup and front one piece cup joint thingy are the essential hopups as the kit only comes with plastic cups. In 1 hit, your shaft is out of the car and you aren't going anywhere until you buy a MASSIVE parts tree for 1 part. Get the aluminium piece, trust me.

I'd say just get 4 pcs of 950s and see how you go. I've had my car since it first came out and I've only replaced 2 bearings.
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Old 01-04-2005, 11:28 PM   #2358
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Thx ..! So you don't really have to mess with the front block?

G
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Old 01-04-2005, 11:30 PM   #2359
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Post GEAR RATIO

Hi

What is the best gear ratio for the TB Evo, 48 pitch, Novak brushless, high speed track. Anybody have good ratio.
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Old 01-05-2005, 12:26 AM   #2360
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Quote:
Originally posted by wyd
Lots of steering is nice especially if you have good rear traction.
i have so much.. i started to dial out!
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Old 01-05-2005, 12:30 AM   #2361
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Default Blocks

for those that asked.

the kit comes with 3 A blocks and 1 E Block. it gives you something like 3+ toe in in the rear.

i switched mine to D/A up front and A/B in the back. i usually run A/A in the back.

for those that want to narrow the stance. the worlds replica kit comes with 1XA - 1XD. these blocks are 1mm lower when compared to the evoIV. or you can just use the X blocks.

like someone said earlier. it is VITAL you pick up the one piece input shaft and drive cup for the front, and the lightweight input shaft and aluminum cup for the rear.

ive ran my car in stock and 19T and i have yet to lock up a bearing. but i do have 4 extras.
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Old 01-05-2005, 12:45 AM   #2362
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Hebiki

hi may i ask what blocks will i need for the rears to give me 2 deg to in ?

thanks
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Old 01-05-2005, 01:02 AM   #2363
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Quote:
Originally posted by BrainTeased
Hebiki

hi may i ask what blocks will i need for the rears to give me 2 deg to in ?

thanks
either A/B or A/C. i forget
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Old 01-05-2005, 01:09 AM   #2364
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haha thanks heres how i think it is
A= 1 deg
B= 1.5
c= 2
d= 2.5
e= 3

thats why you say kit comes with a and e which simon says it will give 3 deg toe in.

ill get C then
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Old 01-05-2005, 01:12 AM   #2365
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if you go to walawala on ebay, you can get 20 odd bearings for $10

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Old 01-05-2005, 05:41 AM   #2366
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Hey Hebiki,

why do you change the front toe blocks when you can do the same thing by lengthening/shortening the tierods for the uprights??
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Old 01-05-2005, 07:58 AM   #2367
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ignore misread

Last edited by Galifrey; 01-05-2005 at 08:15 AM.
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Old 01-05-2005, 08:08 AM   #2368
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Quote:
Originally posted by F. Alonso
Hey Hebiki,

why do you change the front toe blocks when you can do the same thing by lengthening/shortening the tierods for the uprights??
You change the front blocks to sweep the a arms back and then you will readjust your steering tie rods to about zero toe in. If you sweep the a arms like that it will produce more steering. The HPI Pro4 is setup like this from the factory.....If I remember when I had mine it was set at 2.5
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Old 01-05-2005, 08:18 AM   #2369
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Quote:
Originally posted by F. Alonso
Hey Hebiki,

why do you change the front toe blocks when you can do the same thing by lengthening/shortening the tierods for the uprights??
The effect is mid corner steering...nice for those who run spools from time to time
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Old 01-05-2005, 10:36 AM   #2370
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Oh okay. Thanks for the clarification regarding the front toe blocks. I may need to invest in some.
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