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Old 12-29-2004, 09:00 PM   #2281
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Hi guys, although I've been reading for a while, this is my first time posting on rctech. I just recently got an Evo IV and I'm in the process of putting it together to race on carpet w/ foams. I noticed that the inside edge of my Parma wheel hits the arm on the steering knuckle. I'm not sure how to prevent this, do I add more spacers? I think I read a post somewhere on this or the 415 thread about using an HPI knuckle instead. If so, can I use the same axle, or are there any other modifications that have to be done? Any help would be greatly appreciated.
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Old 12-29-2004, 09:29 PM   #2282
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Quote:
Originally posted by John Barta
Hi guys, although I've been reading for a while, this is my first time posting on rctech. I just recently got an Evo IV and I'm in the process of putting it together to race on carpet w/ foams. I noticed that the inside edge of my Parma wheel hits the arm on the steering knuckle. I'm not sure how to prevent this, do I add more spacers? I think I read a post somewhere on this or the 415 thread about using an HPI knuckle instead. If so, can I use the same axle, or are there any other modifications that have to be done? Any help would be greatly appreciated.
have you tried the 6mm aluminum hex hubs from tamiya? the blue ones that came with the car are only 4mm.
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Old 12-29-2004, 09:30 PM   #2283
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Quote:
Originally posted by John Barta
Hi guys, although I've been reading for a while, this is my first time posting on rctech. I just recently got an Evo IV and I'm in the process of putting it together to race on carpet w/ foams. I noticed that the inside edge of my Parma wheel hits the arm on the steering knuckle. I'm not sure how to prevent this, do I add more spacers? I think I read a post somewhere on this or the 415 thread about using an HPI knuckle instead. If so, can I use the same axle, or are there any other modifications that have to be done? Any help would be greatly appreciated.
If you want to keep it all Tamiya then you need the Tamiya 6mm hexes and the 1mm spacers. Use the 6mm hexes front and rear and then use 1mm spacer on each front axle. You will then need ot dremel the steering knuckle some and then your pretty much good to go. I flipped my a arms around to the side with 3 mounting holes and uses the center holes and you will have no rubbing. This is how I did mine.

I read about the other setup like you mentioned but I wanted to keep mine all Tamiya.
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Old 12-29-2004, 10:28 PM   #2284
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Thanks for the help guys, I'll have to order some of those. I have to say that I've picked up a lot of good info. here and I'm sure that I'll have some more questions once I start running the car and trying to find a good setup. This is my first experience w/ a Tamiya car after racing a XXX-S for the past 2 years, and so far I'm very impressed w/ the design and the quality of the kit.
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Old 12-29-2004, 10:34 PM   #2285
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I posted this several pages back. But I use Pro4 steering knuckles on my EvoIV. (gotta take them off though for TCS ) But anyways... to use the Pro4 knuckles.. you'll need new bearings to fit the Pro4 knuckles. You'll need to replace the EvoIV front axle (not bone) with a 415 axle. Or replace the front axle with a Square Ti Pro4 axle (not the Ti MIP CVD axle but the other axle design by Square). If you choose the 415 axle.. you'll need some axle shims to take out some of the play with the Pro4 knuckle. I used Alex Racing shims from SpeedtechRC. Then you can use either the 4mm blue Tamiya wheel hex.. or the Silver 6mm hex. I forgot which one I used. But the 28mm tires clear the knuckle arm.

The easy way though would be the Tamiya silver 6mm wheel hexes. Just be sure the car is not too wide (not over 190mm). Not only for Roar Rules... but also because if you go over 190mm... it'll be too wide for most car bodies as well.
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Old 12-30-2004, 01:11 AM   #2286
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Default Re: hopups

Quote:
Originally posted by Hebiki
here's how you can go overboard hopping up the evoIV

Ti axles (tamiya or square)
Those are overboard. If I was running stock I would get them. As it is, my car is already way too light for ROAR stock or 19t racing.

I'm not quite there, but I am sitting on the edge of the boat

The Jurgen aluminum outdrives were $140 for the set!

IMO, the clear diff covers are mandatory I also scored a set of smoke colored ones I may try at some point in the near future.

Careful running lightweight shafts if you ever run a spool. They will bend like butter if you hit something. I don't know if you saw my chassis but I slightly modified a bumper from a Trinity Reflex 200mm nitro car and it fits excellent on my evo. That way you are better protected if you ever want to run a spool.

Are the 0 deg alum rear hubs from the 415? Part#?

Last edited by fraz; 12-30-2004 at 01:42 AM.
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Old 12-30-2004, 06:59 AM   #2287
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I have not run a total spool at this time. Right now I have a spliff and it is set as tight as a spool with not movement at all but I think it is still a tad more forgiving.

Yes the clean diff covers are a mandatory option in my book to. I working on getting so right now.

Do most of you guys run the 3 holes piston or the 2 hole piston on your EVO's? This is the first one that I have with the 3 hole in. I always used the 2 hole teflon pistons. I think I'm going back to the 2 hole as my car reacts a little slower and is smoother overall for me to drive. Any opinions are welcome.

Kilruf are you getting ready for the TCS race? It is getting closer to that time again. I need to fix my TB-02 from the Laural race as my diff half is still broke and I didn't fix it yet. Need to get to work!!!
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Old 12-30-2004, 12:37 PM   #2288
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Default Re: Re: hopups

Quote:
Originally posted by fraz
Are the 0 deg alum rear hubs from the 415? Part#?
they are from the world replica kit. they'll be compatible with the evoIV since its for the lightweight suspension

never used a spool. too lazy to swap out and i heard it kills your other parts. so ill pass on the spool
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Old 12-30-2004, 03:40 PM   #2289
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does anybody else besides tamiya make rear hubs in aluminum?

I'm assembling the car now. The quality is outstanding! No extra shimming is needed.

What is the internal drive ratio of the car?

Thanks.
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Old 12-30-2004, 03:43 PM   #2290
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WYD, yeah... getting my EvoIV ready for TCS at RCO. Slowly but surely. I just need a few more parts and it should be done. I just really need a body. But not really sure which one to bring this time. I'll probably go back to the Modena body. Not sure if I really liked the NSX... and I think my Altezza had waaaay toooo much steering hehe.

So right now I've been racing my 415 on carpet. I'll bring it as a back up car. But it is no where near TCS legal right now. I'll probably be using the 415 for the club race the night before the TCS. They race foam tires for the club race right? What's the big class there? I think last time it was stock.

Catch ya there soon.
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Old 12-30-2004, 03:46 PM   #2291
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Square also make aluminum rear hubs and front spindles. Internal is 2.294:1
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Old 12-30-2004, 04:02 PM   #2292
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KilRuf-Thanks. I guess I can get them thru speedtech when they open back up.

Yup, stock motors and foams is the big class at RCO.
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Old 12-30-2004, 04:05 PM   #2293
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Is there an update yet on the David Jun sespension arms?
Is it still being developed?
Is it available yet?
Or soon?

Anything....?

Last edited by PizzaDude; 12-30-2004 at 05:20 PM.
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Old 12-30-2004, 04:12 PM   #2294
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Quote:
Originally posted by PIIHB!
does anybody else besides tamiya make rear hubs in aluminum?
FYI, the Square aluminum uprights are 1.5 degrees where the Tamiya aluminum ones are like the stock plastic at 1 degree. Keep this in mind when figuring rear toe.
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Old 12-30-2004, 04:34 PM   #2295
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Are normal TB upgrades compatible?

I know little of the evolution (pardon the pun) so its a genuine query

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