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Old 12-19-2004, 10:19 AM   #2161
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Quote:
Originally posted by F. Alonso
I want to get a spool for the Evo IV. I have seen the speedtech spool and am wanting to get that, but not happy about the photo id ordering for international orders. Is there any other spool made up for the Evo IV??
F. Alonso,

If you're interested in a spool from us, please send me an email

Thanks

Steve Wang
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Old 12-19-2004, 10:43 AM   #2162
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Quote:
Originally posted by SpeedTech
F. Alonso,

If you're interested in a spool from us, please send me an email

Thanks

Steve Wang
F. Alonso, I bought the spool for the EVO III from both Steve @ speedtech and from Jurgen, but for the EVO IV, I've only tried Steve's.

Both worked great and Steve's was much cheaper to purchase

vic
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Old 12-19-2004, 12:32 PM   #2163
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I used one of Steve's spools for my Cuda and it worked great. I will get one eventually for my EVO but when I bought my car it already had they tightened spool/diff so I didn't get one yet.
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Old 12-19-2004, 02:19 PM   #2164
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I use the speedtech spool on my car, and it works really awesome, i race a complete weekend race (8 minutes heats) and i didnt notice any minimal trouble and the car have a great performance
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Old 12-19-2004, 02:25 PM   #2165
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Quote:
Originally posted by SpeedTech
F. Alonso,

If you're interested in a spool from us, please send me an email

Thanks

Steve Wang
Hey Steve,

Guess what!?!?

You've got Mail!

BTW - Thanks for everyone's input on it. I would like to get the Speedtech Spool. Very Strong looking and at a competitive price. What more could I ask ....... blue anodized
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Old 12-20-2004, 12:00 AM   #2166
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Notes on the spool. In general you will get more breakage running a spool if you hit stuff. In the Evo4 the drive cups break easiest and I now have aluminum ones and they are holding up well. It transfers so much force to the driveshaft, I even bent my Jurgen lightweight shaft. I run the Speedtech spool and it is a single piece of machined steel and looks like it will last forever. I think I would rather have the steel spool than the flex generated from the long slots in the stock plastic diff halves.

The Evo4 hubs from Tamiya are 1 degree in plastic or aluminum. I am using the ones from Square and they are indeed 1.5 degrees.

loosenut: Make sure you use Loctite 242 on the screws for the crown gears that go on the front and rear shafts. Otherwise, they will become loose and cause problems eventually. Your parts list looks pretty good and you will want to add 950 bearings to the list because they do wear out quickly.
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Old 12-20-2004, 02:12 PM   #2167
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Thx fraz for the tip. Will I need titanium turn buckles? I thought the evo kid don't come with them? Who should I get it from or shall I buy the TC3 ones?

G
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Old 12-20-2004, 02:40 PM   #2168
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You don't need the Ti turnbuckles. I have them but it was mostly to shave weight.
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Old 12-20-2004, 04:25 PM   #2169
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I don't have Ti turnbuckles on my Evo IV, but I do have them on my 415.

I bought them as I felt I was damaging the aluminium ones as I was adjusting them - I am heavy handed though!
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Old 12-20-2004, 04:47 PM   #2170
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I have been looking for Ti 28mm turnbuckles for the camber on my Evo IV but doesn't look like Tamiya make them in Ti at that size. I have just bought the 32mm ones and I'm sure that they will fit fine anyway. Like Fraz, only doing it to shave weight as well as having unbendable turnbuckles. Nothing worse then bent shafts, :P :P :P
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Old 12-20-2004, 06:37 PM   #2171
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Quote:
Originally posted by F. Alonso
I have been looking for Ti 28mm turnbuckles for the camber on my Evo IV but doesn't look like Tamiya make them in Ti at that size. I have just bought the 32mm ones and I'm sure that they will fit fine anyway. Like Fraz, only doing it to shave weight as well as having unbendable turnbuckles. Nothing worse then bent shafts, :P :P :P
Hi Simon,

The 32mm is probably best in place of the 28mm (they'll go into the ball cups a bit more, which gives it more strength as well) Also, I just sent a reply to your email. I apologize for the delay, I usually don't see the emails from the weekend until Monday (today)

Thanks

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Old 12-20-2004, 07:32 PM   #2172
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Default free drivetrain

can anybody post some tips on how to make the drivetrain more free? I've set up my car straight from the manual, and it seems to be pretty free. but after seeing a friends pro4, i was absolutely stunned!! i can only get about 8 seconds of free spin from my car. I'll try to attach a small video. i took out the sound, so you'll just have to look at the far wheel to see when it stops!

thanks for the input in advace!!

vic
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File Type: mov freespin.mov (1.8 KB, 144 views)
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Old 12-20-2004, 08:30 PM   #2173
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the drive train in the evo 4 is pretty free. i compared it to my old evo 3 and there was a big difference. however, the pro 4 is a really great car and im not surprised it has free drive train. wow, if anybody can give any suggestions as how to achieve a really free drive train!
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Old 12-20-2004, 09:55 PM   #2174
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My drive is pretty free overall but I got the car used and not sure if all the bearing where sprayed out. I know I did most of them but I did put in one new 950 bearing and it is a sealed one and I know it is tighter than the others. It is still smooth and no binding. It really don't matter if your trans spins for 10 seconds or 30 seconds the track performance will be the same.
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Old 12-20-2004, 10:12 PM   #2175
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Quote:
Originally posted by wyd
It really don't matter if your trans spins for 10 seconds or 30 seconds the track performance will be the same.
But the bragging rights would be soooooooo cooooool!! if you could have your car able to spin for up to 30 seconds....hmmm wait I have one that might come close
-Dave
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