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Old 11-19-2004, 02:56 PM   #1876
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Default Re: Re: Re: dirt and gear ratio

Quote:
Originally posted by Superdate
To Hebiki and Alonso:



I was using the original 34T pinion on all Orion Rush 17T, Tamiya TZ 23T and Tamiya Modified 11T. The gear ratio is actually 6.07. But all the motors are very hot after 3-4 min. As i am a newbie to racing, i am not really sure whether that is overheated or not. but at least, if you put your fingers on the motors for 3 seconds, you will feel unbearable. I am going to get some pinion to put down the FDR to 5.58 and see how is that going.

About the dirt, I just cleaned it last night and rebuild the bulkhead according to this article:
http://www.taobracing.net/review_evoIV.shtml

i am pretty sure the screw are tight, but maybe i did not tighten them properly. but that is not that easy to make it balance at all sides.

and what I did either is put some grease on the gap from inside the bulkhead to prevent the dirt from coming in. i will open it later when i do the maintainance to see whether it is alright or not.

Thanks you all

go get the pinion tomorrow and try, then go to the race on sunday, my virgin racing..............
Superdate... thanks for reading the article! Ian Aquino (who's in japan right now competing in the Tamiya World Championships) wrote it. glad it helped. my EvoIV isnt built yet so i cant help much. not that i can even be helpful if the evoIV was built!

btw..if your motor is unbearable to touch after you run.. you might be overgeared? when you get your new pinions... run 2-3 laps.. pull over and touch the motor. if its too hot..then gear down. thats how i test when im using new motors. the 5.6 FDR is for the Tamiya Track. so it might not be best for the track you race at.
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Old 11-19-2004, 04:43 PM   #1877
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Re: New/prototype arms and L shaped knuckles

It looks like the shock mounts directly onto the knuckle rather than onto the arm.
Does any one know what this would do besides reducing play between the wheel and the shock shaft?

Does it cause the shock to compress more as the camber increases?
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Old 11-19-2004, 06:02 PM   #1878
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After looking at the L-uprights, those will not work at all. There is no way the suspension could move up and down with that part sticking out.

What I do know is I after looking at the pic again... I want the silver ball cups!!! Anybody have a part number?
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Old 11-19-2004, 06:25 PM   #1879
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If your motor is getting hot after that period of time then it may also just be a simple gear mesh problem (too tight generally) or there is some sort of resistance in your drivetrain causing it to work harder then usual.
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Old 11-19-2004, 09:00 PM   #1880
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Cool need a new drive cup badly.

raced my evo 4 last might and i broke the drive cup. the other guy who was running the evo 4 also suffered the same fate. i damged by propeller shaft and i need a new drive cup badly. i heard that there was a n aluminum and even a carbon fiber replacement. i need to get part sfast because i need to practice for another race. thanks
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Old 11-19-2004, 09:07 PM   #1881
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Order them from Rainbow Ten Coolio!! I just ordered some stuff yesterday and it should arrive on Tuesday.

www.rainbowten.co.jp
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Old 11-19-2004, 09:27 PM   #1882
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Default Re: need a new drive cup badly.

Quote:
Originally posted by cooliomojo-CEBU
raced my evo 4 last might and i broke the drive cup. the other guy who was running the evo 4 also suffered the same fate. i damged by propeller shaft and i need a new drive cup badly. i heard that there was a n aluminum and even a carbon fiber replacement. i need to get part sfast because i need to practice for another race. thanks
i just bought the tamiya lightweight shaft and I am currently using the team bomber carbon shaft. I have a extra carbon team bomber shaft that has a bit of discoloration on it from rubbing (don't know what though) that i might be willing to part with. shoot me a pm if you're interested

vic
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Old 11-20-2004, 08:21 AM   #1883
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Quote:
Originally posted by fraz
After looking at the L-uprights, those will not work at all. There is no way the suspension could move up and down with that part sticking out.

What I do know is I after looking at the pic again... I want the silver ball cups!!! Anybody have a part number?
This is a prototype "progressive" suspension and it works very well. The shock is mounted onto the hub and allows you to run a really soft rear spring. The car is stable when there are low lateral loads as well as entering corners and coming out of them. Mid corner the car carries a lot of corner speed as the suspension compresses and "stiffens up". In testing, on the second or third run, the car felt as good and stable as my 415 did at the Reedy Race but this setup had much more corner speed. At the worlds, David had two cars prepared, one with the new suspsension and one with the prototype stuff and he decided on the proto car to run. Fernando also ran the suspension on his 415 with some modifications. David is the macdad when it comes to thinking outside of the box. As for production, I'm not sure if/when it'll come out but it's promising.

The silver ball studs? They are factory titanium balls studs from way back when....unless David ran out and used old steel ones.
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Old 11-21-2004, 06:43 AM   #1884
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Exclamation Upgrading motor

Hi there,

Hope someone can help me.

Recently got a TB-02 and thinking of putting in a new motor, 19T, instead of the stock Mabuchi. Problem is I'm not sure which spur to use or if I need to get a new pinion for a proper match.

Here's the stock specs:-

1) Internal Ratio 2.6
2) Spurs 61T, 58T and 55T
3) Stock Pinion 19T

Stock setting for the Mabuchi can is 58T spur and 19T pinion.

I'd be glad if someone can helpme out on the final drive ratio for a 19T motor. If you can give me the final drive ratios for the other motors, from 27T to 9T, that would be very helpful.

My friend tried to use the 7.94 ratio on his 19T motor and it became damn hot!

Really at a loss now as I can't proceed on with my TB-02 without knowing what spur to put in, or whether I need new pinions.

Thanks for reading!

Cheers!
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Old 11-21-2004, 07:23 AM   #1885
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When I raced my TB-02 at the TCS race I used the stock gearing 58/19 with a 27 turn stock motor. Our track is really a small and tight indoor asphalt track so I needed to keep the gearing low.

At the out door TCS race I went to a few weeks ago the track was alot larger and I was able to gear my car up some using the stock motor. I used both a 22/58 gearing and tried the 21/58. Both were better but I ended up with the 22/58 for my final gearing.

For 19 turns you might want to the 22/58 gearing as I normally gear my 19 turn motors higher than the stock motors most of the time.

Brian
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Old 11-21-2004, 07:46 AM   #1886
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Thanks for your speedy reply, Brian. Much appreciated.

Will get the 22T tomorrow and continue with my TB-02.

Cheers!
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Old 11-21-2004, 08:07 AM   #1887
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If your track is a large one i would go for 22/55. Its what we use over here.

Regards
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Old 11-21-2004, 08:30 AM   #1888
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Thanks for your view!

Will the 22T/55T combo work well with a 15T motor?

Cheers!
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Old 11-21-2004, 09:07 AM   #1889
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Quote:
Originally posted by Mad Armour
Thanks for your view!

Will the 22T/55T combo work well with a 15T motor?

Cheers!
Depends, how big is the track?
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Old 11-21-2004, 09:35 AM   #1890
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Well, I don't really race. It's just for fun run. And to see how fast the baby goes, of course.

Cheers!
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