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Old 03-21-2011, 07:23 AM   #256
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you know i want one but untill i get on days with the school system i dont have have the time or $ to support it but it will be in time,kissimmee is a drive
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Old 03-21-2011, 12:09 PM   #257
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For WGT, the super wide front doesnt help out at all.Our maximum width worked just right for high bite carpet. The narrow option was for asphalt. For very high traction we used the spacers behind the axle as it worked better than widening at the arm mount.

1S and 2S are 2 different animals and 2S just hasnt been in high demand.

Its not that i am against running 2S, i just havent had many people ask about the 235mm cars as the 200mm WGT cars have been ruling the market for 1/10th pan cars.
Then it really seems 1S and 2S racing differs regarding cars not only setup.
But nobody runs 1S here or even is interested in so we have to go for a different direction.
Looking at the cars of other drivers nobody else runs a narrow car like me any more. Just as an example, there is one of the best drivers here running a CRC. This car has 3 options for front wide and this guy had run the medium wide until now what is still wider than my DB10RR. This driver always had been the one to beat until now. At the last race he reached the limit of his car and was not able following the 2 fastest Corallys for most of the race whatever he tried. At the last leg of the triple A-Mains he went with the widest front option and had the same laptimes as the Corallys then. End of story.

You have to separate 2S racing from 235mm class. I understand there isnīt very much demand on 235mm cars these days, at least for USA. The guys here running 235mm cars do this since years and have a lot of experience in car setup and construction. This means some of them are even making their own cars what work much better than the older cars as AE RC10L2, Trinity or similar.

But for 200mm 2S there is some more demand. But people are not interested making there own parts for the 2S lipo to fit. So they are buying cars like Serpent or Corally.
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Old 03-21-2011, 12:25 PM   #258
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@V12
As the CH front suspension sits on top of a plate i think it would be possible to widen the front of the CH by making wider carbon bottomplates. In your / our case the question is if it is really worthwhile the investment of the CH or just go for the easier option (10sl).

For indoorseason 2011-2012 i might try the inline axles to get some better steering response, haven't tried that. (for the DB10RR)
I think the inline axles donīt work for most drivers indoors. Itīs too difficult to drive. Even outdoors I know just one guy using this with 200mm. For 235mm cars of course inline axles are the way to go as long as you donīt have a Hatzenbach/Red Devil car.

Well I have no clue what to do now. Looking at the instructions I think you just canīt make wider locator plates for the front end. You also have to modify the chassis as screws go through both of them in difference to other cars.
For sure I wonīt go with a Corally. Also I like having something different than other guys. If I had knowledge on CAD I think I would make my own car based on the BMI rear end.
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Old 03-21-2011, 12:51 PM   #259
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Let me see what i can do to widen the front end up for you guys. I may be able to do something simple like an adapter plate. I just need to know how wide you guys are running them.
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Old 03-21-2011, 02:20 PM   #260
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But for 200mm 2S there is some more demand. But people are not interested making there own parts for the 2S lipo to fit. So they are buying cars like Serpent or Corally.
I'll second that! We are also running 2S cars around here (Latvia, Lithuania) and don't want to switch to 1S. 90% of cars out there are DB10RR's and most people don't want to switch to CH10 just because they don't want / don't have time / don't have resources to do the modifications needed to accomodate the 2S battery. Our market is small though, I might get maybe 4 or 5 kits sold over the season (we run only in winter on carpet).
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Old 03-21-2011, 03:08 PM   #261
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Looking at the instructions I think you just canīt make wider locator plates for the front end. You also have to modify the chassis as screws go through both of them in difference to other cars.
I looked at the instructions and indeed it is impossible to make it yourself with 100% fitment.
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Old 03-21-2011, 05:18 PM   #262
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i love my 235mm car. just waiting for someone to play with.. mines a PRC custom.. think rc10l2.5.. 3 shock setup.. standard front end.. its fun..
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Old 04-04-2011, 07:53 PM   #263
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I can't remember but is there a part number for the NFE kit?
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Old 04-04-2011, 08:37 PM   #264
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I can't remember but is there a part number for the NFE kit?
no,dont think he ever put it on the site yet
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Old 05-19-2011, 01:55 AM   #265
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Just want to be clear here for all of you 235mm guys, I do have drawings made for a 235mm car. Not a conversion but an all 235mm car. I am really just waiting on some more interest so if you 235 guys want it, let it be known to me. I want to try one out myself.
Hi Jason,

I'll be waiting for the 235mm to come out!!!!!

Best regards
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Old 05-19-2011, 05:02 AM   #266
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Hi Jason,

I'll be waiting for the 235mm to come out!!!!!

Best regards
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Old 06-02-2011, 12:09 PM   #267
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Anybody have a setup for low bite asphalt for CH 10 w/Spec Tires ?
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Old 06-02-2011, 05:37 PM   #268
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I have a good set-up that i used last weekend that worked good. i will post it up with in the next couple of hours for ya!!
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Old 06-02-2011, 07:13 PM   #269
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Thanks. Would like to know battery placement as well.
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Old 06-02-2011, 07:34 PM   #270
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battery should be side to side with elec in the back,that is the best balance,what track are you running at
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