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Old 02-22-2011, 03:34 PM   #226
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those screws need to be 1-2mm longer they don't grab enough for the bump stop
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Old 03-14-2011, 03:05 PM   #227
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hey just like to post my set-up from this past weekend . got alot of time with the car both last fri and sat and this is what i came up with . the car practically drives itself. and just like i said on the ch12 thread these bmi cars are by far the best cars i have driven! very happy with both my ch12 and ch10 , truly awesome cars . after i put this setup on the car i didnt have to mess with it at all throughout the weekend. it drove itself so i just sauced the tires and went out and had some fun racing. track is med grip carpet that was bumpy so i ran more rear pod droop than normal.

my setup:
front-
-1 deg camber
0 toe
4mm ride hieght
1mm droop
middle setting castor
no shims under arm mount standard posts.
1.8mm flex plates soft position
#4 shurlube in tube
servo angled position
trackwidth 2mm behind axle and .02" behind wheel bearing
tires: jaco spec 49.5mm (1.948in) sauced 3/4 glued at the rim

rear-
40wt ae oil
2 hole piston
stock spring
stock shock position
4mm ride hieght/2mm pod droop/ zero sag
#4 shurlube in tubes
stock flex plates in long position
battery across chassis with electronics behind battery and booster in front of battery.
trackwidth 200mm
tires: jaco spec 51.5mm (2.027in) sauced full / glued side wall

car is very easy to drive .

BMI FOR LIFE!!
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Old 03-14-2011, 03:23 PM   #228
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did you notice less wear on the front tires with ch10 and nfe over your other cars
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Old 03-14-2011, 03:47 PM   #229
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yes the double wishbone bmi front end makes the front tires wear less! its pretty awesome. over all the BMI front end feel more consistant than the strut front ends out there. but what i like best is the fact you can do all of your adjustments on the front end with out removing a single wheel or screw!
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Old 03-15-2011, 04:19 PM   #230
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Regarding front trackwide I see there are different positions with the adjuster plates. What is the range of adjustement especially comparing with the old DB10RR?
Maybe someone could measure the distance of front end screws at maximum wide.
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Old 03-15-2011, 05:44 PM   #231
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i will try and get my buddies db10 and measure it unless someone gets to it first
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Old 03-16-2011, 01:35 PM   #232
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I have a DB10RR and with this chassis the distance between left and right side front end screws is about 79.5 to 80.0 mm. In inch this is about 3.14". For the overall front wide there are different offsets of the various wheels also some guys are using shims and camber also will affect the overall wide. So for comparing itīs easier measuring the distance of left and right side front end screws. Center of screw to center of screw of course.

I know you could run a wider frontend with the Copperhead 10 than with the DB10R or DB10RR but I donīt know how much this differs.
I would like knowing what is the maximum wide so again how much is the distance between left and right side front end screws for the maximum wide position.

The reason Iīm asking this, since some weeks nearly all races here are won by the new corally 10 SL cars. This is especially when there is a very high grip carpet. Actually no other car had a chance until we discovered one thing with the corally now. Beside some other details this car has a very wide front track what makes it much easier to drive with the high grip and high speed of our 2S batteries.
Last weekend I had to work very hard on setup for finally qualifying 6th position in the A-Main but for the triple finals the grip had increased even more and I absolutely had no chance with the DB10RR there.
Actually I love my DB10RR and just had invested in more spares but now it seems it doesnīt make sense running this any longer.
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Old 03-16-2011, 02:02 PM   #233
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v12, could you post your setting? and what the car does when the traction comes up?

Too be honest, i have really good results with my db10rr (got overall second place in our club competition this indoor season and 4th place in the EPS that was run in the Netherlands) and till now the corallies here, for the indoor season at least, had problems with their setup. Now i know there are more corallies run in germany so setup is easier to transfer.

I can imagine that with a thicker chassis (3mm)and the wider track width the corally could do better on high grip carpet.

The DB10RR has quite some flex in the chassis. One picture i saw from your chassis is that you don't use the front standoff as the stickpack lipo is in the way creating maybe even more flex? (not sure but the front is quite flexy imo without the front standoff attached to the lipo brace)

I am using a aluminium associated tube between the casterblocks to stiffen the front up. I also have a strip of carbon under the front standoff to act as a stopper for the saddle pack lipo's but also stiffens the chassis up a bit. It works really wel.
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Old 03-16-2011, 02:10 PM   #234
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I would highly suggest the copperhead 10 conversion kit for your db10rr as the copperhead 10 comes with adjustable trackwidth plates to make the car wider or narrower.

what is your current front track width? are you using the double wishbone front endor the strut front end?

do you have any spacers behind the front axles? (between the axle and the steering block)
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Old 03-16-2011, 02:57 PM   #235
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Quote:
Originally Posted by V12 View Post
I have a DB10RR and with this chassis the distance between left and right side front end screws is about 79.5 to 80.0 mm. In inch this is about 3.14". For the overall front wide there are different offsets of the various wheels also some guys are using shims and camber also will affect the overall wide. So for comparing itīs easier measuring the distance of left and right side front end screws. Center of screw to center of screw of course.

I know you could run a wider frontend with the Copperhead 10 than with the DB10R or DB10RR but I donīt know how much this differs.
I would like knowing what is the maximum wide so again how much is the distance between left and right side front end screws for the maximum wide position.

The reason Iīm asking this, since some weeks nearly all races here are won by the new corally 10 SL cars. This is especially when there is a very high grip carpet. Actually no other car had a chance until we discovered one thing with the corally now. Beside some other details this car has a very wide front track what makes it much easier to drive with the high grip and high speed of our 2S batteries.
Last weekend I had to work very hard on setup for finally qualifying 6th position in the A-Main but for the triple finals the grip had increased even more and I absolutely had no chance with the DB10RR there.
Actually I love my DB10RR and just had invested in more spares but now it seems it doesnīt make sense running this any longer.
The Corally from what i understand is 235mm isnt it?(or can be widened to 235) That in itself will play a huge role in the stability at such high speeds. Although, a one car does all(200 and 235mm) is not ideal for either class, a 200mm car converted to 235mm or close to will handle the blistering speeds of 2S racing better than a 200mm car. We are looking into making a 235mm car if the demand is big enough. It will be a dedicated 235mm car as i dont like to have half breed cars as they can do both but they dont really do either very well.
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Old 03-16-2011, 03:12 PM   #236
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2wdrive View Post
v12, could you post your setting? and what the car does when the traction comes up?

Too be honest, i have really good results with my db10rr (got overall second place in our club competition this indoor season and 4th place in the EPS that was run in the Netherlands) and till now the corallies here, for the indoor season at least, had problems with their setup. Now i know there are more corallies run in germany so setup is easier to transfer.

I can imagine that with a thicker chassis (3mm)and the wider track width the corally could do better on high grip carpet.

The DB10RR has quite some flex in the chassis.

I am using a aluminium associated tube between the casterblocks to stiffen the front up.
The DB10RR works very good as long as there isnīt very much grip. Usually this is during controlled practice and heats 1-3 on saturday. For heats 4-5 on sunday the carpet starts getting high grip and for the finals the car usually wonīt rotate any more and is too difficult to drive in compare to other cars. At this point the other cars are getting even faster and my car stays at one level or even getting slower.

Yes I also think my DB10RR is too soft for this conditions but I canīt use the front standoff because of the 2S stick pack battery. But this is just one of the reasons.

I also think the angled flexlinks are not the best option either for high grip like that. Copperhead style flexlinks should be better for this.

But as I said before we found (with other cars) maximum wide at the frontend seems the way to go for our tracks and conditions. When one of the best drivers here (national champion) struggle getting his car up to speed until he tries the widest possible front track, I think this says everything.

I donīt know how good the Corally drivers are at your area, here I have the situation I have to race against some of the best drivers of our country including some factory drivers. They are using Corally and CRC cars and their cars do work. Crazy fast. But now some other (average) drivers also had changed to Corally and since that I have big problems outqualifying them.
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Old 03-16-2011, 03:28 PM   #237
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i think i know what you mean. I had also some problems to get the car to rotate in the turn and onpower understeering. Last race i put 80wt oil in the shock with the standard spring and that brought me better steering through the turn. Also the 10 caster block brought me better alround steering through the turn. I also set my steering expo on +50 to get more and faster steering input. All helped quite good. Btw i use lilac all round but i might go for purples next indoor season for freeing teh car up a little more.

One corally factory driver drove my car ones and was amazed how balanced and easy it was to drive it fast. I gues the corally drivers are not as good as in germany lol.
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Old 03-16-2011, 03:29 PM   #238
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i saw that corally offers the car in both 200mm and 235mm . so if you could tell us which one people are running it would be alot easier to find a solution to help ya out. and i looked at the corally car and all i can say is ewww! haha. for 200mm dude i would really look into running the copperhead 10 conversion with the bmi front suspension.
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Old 03-16-2011, 03:33 PM   #239
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jeff jenkins View Post
I would highly suggest the copperhead 10 conversion kit for your db10rr as the copperhead 10 comes with adjustable trackwidth plates to make the car wider or narrower.

what is your current front track width? are you using the double wishbone front endor the strut front end?

do you have any spacers behind the front axles? (between the axle and the steering block)
I know the Copperhead has adjustable front trackwide. Thatīs why I want knowing what is the maximum wide possible.
If possible please could someone measure the distance of the left and right side front end screws at the bottom of the chassis. This is easier to compare as no shims or different wheel dimensions will make a difference.

My current front track wide is about 192mm with Jaco wheels. I use shims sometimes for widening to 193-194mm but actually thatīs not the way you want widening a front end.

Iīm using the original AE strut frontend currently. From my knowledge the new style frontend isnīt available as 1/10 version to the public until now.
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Old 03-16-2011, 03:48 PM   #240
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jeff jenkins View Post
i saw that corally offers the car in both 200mm and 235mm . so if you could tell us which one people are running it would be alot easier to find a solution to help ya out. and i looked at the corally car and all i can say is ewww! haha. for 200mm dude i would really look into running the copperhead 10 conversion with the bmi front suspension.
The corally is a tank but it works. 3mm carbon chassis, 7mm thick axle, uses bigger bearings on the axles and diff hubs then the asso style axle. It has one of the best diffs in the business. The plastic axle bearing holders are crap though, they sell aluminium bearing holders now. For indoor 200mm 2s lipo and 17.5t is the norm.
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