tellan

I totally agree with that , having done 3000 laps of testing with various motors.
The motor i found the best is the GM range. fast and punchy and low 60c degrees .
Novak are good but get very hot,
LRP and Nosram are none starters, melted the solder off the tabs.
Tekin Duo 2 just couldnt get them to perform,gave up on them.
Tekin redline Ok all round.

Dragonfire

iTrader: (1)

What do you think of the new Orion motors? So far I have found them to be the best but have not tried the GM.

tellan

Not a motor Ive tried or even contemplated buying. It will have to be good to be better than the GM V3 range.

Yokomo_Ant3

iTrader: (29)

Hey Guys,

For those using receiver battery's, how are you wiring them? Using pin 4 and 5 on the speedie, or just directly into the receiver? Which way would be better? My SMC 7.4v 450mah hard cased dosent seem to work through the speedie, the switch must be confusing the speedie somehow Im going to get a life pack soon. What is everyone else using?

Thanks,

Antoni

Skiddins

The LRP's and Nosrams seem to run a lot cooler with the Tekin's etc.

It just seems to be when used with the BD that they get very hot.

Me_MrTyson

iTrader: (11)

If you are gearing the BD with the same gearing as Tekin I would expect it to be hot..

You would be reving the motor like anything.

What LRP x12 are you using?? 10.5, 17.5

I used a 5.5t at the weekend under geared a little and motor came off at like 25 degrees

whynot

iTrader: (18)

ordered me a BD today for my new copperhead 12
I will be running 1s 17.5 and I have a nemisis and a duo2.
what motor you guys running is 12 scale 1s 17.5? I also run with a booster I think it is a tq not sure it is lil white shrink wrapped.thinking about using a reciever pack but not sure which one. any help or suggestions would be greatly appreciated. thanks
mike

Crashby

Is there a website for Advanced Electronics? Does anyone have the address of where to send a BD to get it up graded to the latest software?

Thanks!

rocketron

iTrader: (16)

Hey Steve... send it to Calandra Racing

Skiddins

It was the 10.5 motors.
The Nosrams were on 6.4 (Tekin) while they are on 5.2 on the BD.

Skiddins

tellan

Esc needs to go directly back to AE in Sweden free up grade but postage to pay. attention of Per. Address is on Esc box. HTH

whynot

iTrader: (18)

How can I tell if I have the newest v2 speedo, it doesnt say anything in the instructions or on the speedo. I dont see where it has a setting for No timing spec class

dumper

iTrader: (1)

Set the speed controller to timing profile 1. If it is V2 software the light will flash in neutral.

How long ago did you get it, and where did you get it from? If you got it recently, more than likely it is V2 software.

whynot

iTrader: (18)

Thanks dumper,I ordered it fri and received it today from CRC. Do I plug the receiver battery right behind the plug that is on the esc,if so there seems to be some kind of plastic piece on the pins.
thanks,
mike

dumper

iTrader: (1)

You 100% have the newest software, as that is all we have in stock...

Now for the setup stuff...assuming you want to run an external receiver pack and run it through the internal BEC (which is what most people including all of us team guys do) follow these steps.

1-Pull off the "plastic piece", it slides right off with an x-acto knife or something small enough to get in there.

2- Find either a sensor wire, JST connector or extra servo lead that you are willing to sacrifice. Or if you have alot of confidence in your soldering skills, skip this and move to step 4.

3- Take the outer plug off of the sensor wire/plug you are using, you want to use what is inside. What you are going to do, is use the end that is already on the wire. For example, if you are using a JST connector, take an x-acto knife, lift up on the tab holding the connector in, and slide the wire out. Same for a servo lead or sensor wire. You need to get 2 pieces of wire.

4-Now slide the connector end of the wire over pins 4 and 5 remembering pin 4 is negative and pin 5 in positive. Usually using a connector and wire from a sensor wire fits the snuggest. A JST connector works well to, you might have to crimp the connector a little bit to get a nice snug fit. Basically what we are doing here is making leads for the receiver pack to plug into. The reason we do this is because we do not want to keep plugging and unplugging onto those pins everytime we need to charge the receiver pack. If you are very confident in your soldering skills, skip all the connector stuff and just solder a positive wire on pin 5 and a negative wire on pin 4 using a connector that matches up to whatever receiver pack you are using. I personally do not feel comfortable soldering on the pins that is why I came up with finding a piece of wire that already has a recepticle for the pin already on it.

5-Once the wire is on the pins, add a plug that matches your receiver pack and you are ready to go. Now one more thing I have done, is spliced in a switch in between the speed control and the receiver pack plug. Otherwise when you plug in, it is on.

This post makes it sound alot more complicated than it really is. The wiring of the speed control could stand to be a little more user friendly, but once it is done, it is done. The internal BEC is great beacause it eliminates another part of the wiring nightmare that is 1s lipo racing. Even for radio systems that can "handle" 7.4v, it is just less stress on the electronics to do it this way.

Brian Wynn

Team CRC