Advanced Electronics Black Diamond ESC
#886
Tech Master
iTrader: (3)
You should have no problem running 4.5t on this speedy just make sure you check temps after 2 minutes when practicing to be safe and dont overgear the motor. I have seen these speedy been used and I am going to be using this speedy in australia where the weather is hot with no major problems. Plus they are weapon fast
#888
Tech Lord
iTrader: (32)
The Side Piece "Seis" fan fits on the ESC perfect. It's 25x25x15 and moves a lot of air when you plug it into the receiver. I picked up some 16mm M2 screws from McMaster Carr, and they have plenty of thread to hold the fan in place.
I'm gonna give it a go in mod in a couple of weeks, I'll report back with temps using the fan.
I'm gonna give it a go in mod in a couple of weeks, I'll report back with temps using the fan.
#889
This page says 2S down to 7.5T
http://www.modeltech.co.uk/catalog/p...6cba2418a1209c
However the speedo has two layers of Mil spec FET's which are directly against the inside faces of the case and is rated constant current of 150A, extremely high for such a small speedo.
For the sake of an email it seems sensible to contact Per first before strapping in the 4.5
http://www.modeltech.co.uk/catalog/p...6cba2418a1209c
However the speedo has two layers of Mil spec FET's which are directly against the inside faces of the case and is rated constant current of 150A, extremely high for such a small speedo.
For the sake of an email it seems sensible to contact Per first before strapping in the 4.5
#890
Ive been running a reedy 4.5 turn on my BD (no timing, no boost) and let me tell you after a 10 minute run i could use this speedy as an ice cub for a drink thats how cool it runs.
#891
This page says 2S down to 7.5T
http://www.modeltech.co.uk/catalog/p...6cba2418a1209c
However the speedo has two layers of Mil spec FET's which are directly against the inside faces of the case and is rated constant current of 150A, extremely high for such a small speedo.
For the sake of an email it seems sensible to contact Per first before strapping in the 4.5
http://www.modeltech.co.uk/catalog/p...6cba2418a1209c
However the speedo has two layers of Mil spec FET's which are directly against the inside faces of the case and is rated constant current of 150A, extremely high for such a small speedo.
For the sake of an email it seems sensible to contact Per first before strapping in the 4.5
I moved the start timing to 7000rpm and it did help with low end torque but didn't seem to make any difference to temps.
Skiddins
Last edited by Skiddins; 04-06-2012 at 07:47 AM.
#892
The can timing affects the entire rev range so lifting the start rpm allows the can timing to take care of the bottom end without being overtimed, and you can add an appropriate amount for the midrange.
I'm going to try start 12500-14000 next time, and add a further 5 degrees to the can to compensate, effectively adding 5 to the top but hopefully avoiding heat issues as the start is so high. Alternatively might add this to top timing over 19600 instead
At the moment its +10 from default (40 on the can) FDR 6.4 (to get the brake), 50deg mid starting at 7000 no turbo. Its competitive right now, but have a feeling it could be devastating if exactly the magic set up can be found
I'm going to try start 12500-14000 next time, and add a further 5 degrees to the can to compensate, effectively adding 5 to the top but hopefully avoiding heat issues as the start is so high. Alternatively might add this to top timing over 19600 instead
At the moment its +10 from default (40 on the can) FDR 6.4 (to get the brake), 50deg mid starting at 7000 no turbo. Its competitive right now, but have a feeling it could be devastating if exactly the magic set up can be found
#893
The can timing affects the entire rev range so lifting the start rpm allows the can timing to take care of the bottom end without being overtimed, and you can add an appropriate amount for the midrange.
I'm going to try start 12500-14000 next time, and add a further 5 degrees to the can to compensate, effectively adding 5 to the top but hopefully avoiding heat issues as the start is so high. Alternatively might add this to top timing over 19600 instead
At the moment its +10 from default (40 on the can) FDR 6.4 (to get the brake), 50deg mid starting at 7000 no turbo. Its competitive right now, but have a feeling it could be devastating if exactly the magic set up can be found
I'm going to try start 12500-14000 next time, and add a further 5 degrees to the can to compensate, effectively adding 5 to the top but hopefully avoiding heat issues as the start is so high. Alternatively might add this to top timing over 19600 instead
At the moment its +10 from default (40 on the can) FDR 6.4 (to get the brake), 50deg mid starting at 7000 no turbo. Its competitive right now, but have a feeling it could be devastating if exactly the magic set up can be found
#896
#897
#898
A setup to get the best of both worlds, bottom and top end, would be to run 30° from 0 to 19600rpm and 50° past 19600 ramped evenly to 36000rpm.... You can even gear lower, around 7.6FDR to get more punch out of the corners, and reduce heating issues.....
#899
By the way , if you switch to 3.5t or 2.5t motor and use the same concept but only cranking the timing to 45° , you will be uncatchable...