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BMI Racing "Copperhead 12" discussion and support

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BMI Racing "Copperhead 12" discussion and support

Old 07-12-2010, 12:56 PM
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Thanks J

I will be placing an order later tonight. But looking at the website...the DB1030 & DB1030R (top rear pod plates), what is the 'non-kit' one for?
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Old 07-12-2010, 01:28 PM
  #272  
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Originally Posted by Joost K.
Okay, so that applies only for WGT then?
Yup...and only the non-ROAR WGT. ROAR has their own rules for WGT that also does not include a sliding king pin rule. If that rule were in place the old HPI Road Star never would have been ROAR legal as that also used a double wishbone type front suspension. That was a cool suspension but had a couple mistakes in the design that should have been remedied before going to production.
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Old 07-12-2010, 01:36 PM
  #273  
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Ah okay, well... Luckily I drive Pro10 and there we can use whatever we want...
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Old 07-12-2010, 02:23 PM
  #274  
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Default hey guys...

...a question about running the servo laid down. I just noticed that the turnbuckles are slanted downward towards the steering arms. Do I use taller ballstuds/space these up to have the turnbuckles parallel to the ground/chassis? And why, if I may ask? Or does it even matter?
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Old 07-12-2010, 02:30 PM
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Hey Jaybee,

Yes you want to add a Med Ball Stud to the steering arms when you have a laid down servo setup. The reason why is it reduces bump steer. You can get the Med Ball stud from IRS racing and I think BMI has some on there site

Hope this helps
Mike



Originally Posted by JayBee
...a question about running the servo laid down. I just noticed that the turnbuckles are slanted downward towards the steering arms. Do I use taller ballstuds/space these up to have the turnbuckles parallel to the ground/chassis? And why, if I may ask? Or does it even matter?
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Old 07-12-2010, 02:33 PM
  #276  
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Originally Posted by mike ivy
Hey Jaybee,

Yes you want to add a Med Ball Stud to the steering arms when you have a laid down servo setup. The reason why is it reduces bump steer. You can get the Med Ball stud from IRS racing and I think BMI has some on there site

Hope this helps
Mike
Hey thanks Mike....you answered 1st, so picketh your brain I must do
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Old 07-12-2010, 02:36 PM
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Hey Jaybee,

Cool man cool contact me anytime.

I'll hook ya with loads of info

Mike



Originally Posted by JayBee
Hey thanks Mike....you answered 1st, so picketh your brain I must do
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Old 07-12-2010, 02:48 PM
  #278  
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*DB1030R*
*DB1020R*
*DB1041R*
*DB1053R*.....
how are these pieces different than their originals? With exception to the top rear pod plate (I can see the difference there, but what's the idea behind it?).
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Old 07-12-2010, 05:35 PM
  #279  
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Default batts

Which 1S lipos are most of you guys running?
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Old 07-12-2010, 05:39 PM
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Originally Posted by protc3
The front end will be sold as an upgrade as it is too expensive to put in with the kit and keep the price of the kit the same. It will fit all existing cars and i will be making it fit all the other cars out there also.
So, there will be an option to buy the Copperhead with the new suspension, but the cost will be higher than the Copperhead with the old Associated style front end, correct?

I do not mind paying more for the car . But I have a problem with having to buy two front ends with my kit, when I know I'm not going to use the Associated style front end. I'm confident many others agree with me .
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Old 07-12-2010, 05:40 PM
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Originally Posted by JayBee
Which 1S lipos are most of you guys running?
I went with the SMC batts...I rather like the built in bullet plugs.
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Old 07-12-2010, 05:45 PM
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Originally Posted by InspGadgt
I went with the SMC batts...I rather like the built in bullet plugs.
I was thinking the same thing; or the Reedy 4600 pack.
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Old 07-12-2010, 06:07 PM
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Originally Posted by speed-e
So, there will be an option to buy the Copperhead with the new suspension, but the cost will be higher than the Copperhead with the old Associated style front end, correct?

I do not mind paying more for the car . But I have a problem with having to buy two front ends with my kit, when I know I'm not going to use the Associated style front end. I'm confident many others agree with me .
its because he want a car that is reasonable priced,the front end is just a option part that does not need to be purchased if not needed,but most die hard will buy it,the average beginner may not for a while
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Old 07-12-2010, 06:41 PM
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Hey Jaybee,

I'll Try to answer these as best as i can

Part# DB1030R The difference between this part and the original is that it sets the shock back on the top pod it changes the leverage of the shock. I helps make the car rotate better.

Whats a nice feature on the DB12RR and the new Copper Head12 car is you can position the shock mount forward or back. It changes leverage on the pod and how much traction or less traction you want. So if you want more traction move the mount forward and if you want less traction move it to the rear.

Part# DB1020R This is different than the original this lengthens the car some it basically keeps the car more stable and I think a longer wheel base helps the car carry more corner speed I have to ask Jason on this.

Part# DB1041R this part is for the DB12RR car its pretty much like the original but its made for the DB12RR

Part#DB1053R Is the pod brace for the DB12RR car on this car the pod is a little wider to allow more room for brushless motors.

As for 1c lipo's there's many alot of people are using Thunder Power, Trinity just to name a few.

Hope this helps
Mike






Originally Posted by JayBee
*DB1030R*
*DB1020R*
*DB1041R*
*DB1053R*.....
how are these pieces different than their originals? With exception to the top rear pod plate (I can see the difference there, but what's the idea behind it?).
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Old 07-12-2010, 07:18 PM
  #285  
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Thanks alot brah....much appreciated. We'll talk soon
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