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BMI Racing "Copperhead 12" discussion and support

BMI Racing "Copperhead 12" discussion and support

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Old 09-06-2010, 10:20 AM
  #676  
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Originally Posted by JayBee View Post
My night for racing will be Wednesday....I'll have a report for you on Thursday
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Old 09-06-2010, 11:04 AM
  #677  
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Originally Posted by whynot View Post
Hey Guys I am running crc pro cuts and I am trying to center the rear axel left and right with a track width of 172. I have 1 shim on each side and the track width is about 171.8. But it isnt even from side to side do you guys just use the shims in the kit or are there different sizes. any help tips will be greatly appreciated thanks
mike
the crc rim is a little wider at 38.25 with 1.5mm offset compared to the jaco prism's 38mm wide with 3.0mm offset

3 shims(0.5mm each) each side should get you just to or slightly over 172.
with jaco's 6shims each side should do. bmi makes a 3mm wide aluminum shim which is a little more convenient than fiddling a stack of 6 shims.

if the axle seems not centered, measuring from the center hole to the hub flange, then it could be the left hub. do you have it wide boss out? if you have it wide boss inwards then the left wheel will be out compared to the right.

if it is the right side hub that is offset out more than the left, then post a picture without wheels on, that sounds like a mystery.
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Old 09-06-2010, 03:22 PM
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Originally Posted by avs View Post
the crc rim is a little wider at 38.25 with 1.5mm offset compared to the jaco prism's 38mm wide with 3.0mm offset

3 shims(0.5mm each) each side should get you just to or slightly over 172.
with jaco's 6shims each side should do. bmi makes a 3mm wide aluminum shim which is a little more convenient than fiddling a stack of 6 shims.

if the axle seems not centered, measuring from the center hole to the hub flange, then it could be the left hub. do you have it wide boss out? if you have it wide boss inwards then the left wheel will be out compared to the right.

if it is the right side hub that is offset out more than the left, then post a picture without wheels on, that sounds like a mystery.
I have it so the side with the longer boss is to the inside and the shorter boss is into the wheel. I think that what it says to do in the manual, I was thinking that hte longer side should go into the wheel for more support, but not sure cause the manual says shallow boss towards the wheel.
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Old 09-06-2010, 03:26 PM
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Originally Posted by whynot View Post
I have it so the side with the longer boss is to the inside and the shorter boss is into the wheel. I think that what it says to do in the manual, I was thinking that hte longer side should go into the wheel for more support, but not sure cause the manual says shallow boss towards the wheel.
Put the longer side in the wheel and the shorter side toward the bulkhead, then you should be able to shim the axle so that both wheels are the same distance from the middle and the correct width.
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Old 09-06-2010, 07:25 PM
  #680  
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Originally Posted by whynot View Post
Where do the 3 copper ball studs go?
Didn't see this was answered, and you may have already figured it out, but use locknuts and put them on the upper pod plate. Center one turned up for the center shock, the other two face down for the damper tubes.

EDIT: My bad, I assumed you were building rear suspension.

Last edited by HarryLeach; 09-07-2010 at 07:12 AM.
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Old 09-06-2010, 09:45 PM
  #681  
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Originally Posted by whynot View Post
I have it so the side with the longer boss is to the inside and the shorter boss is into the wheel. I think that what it says to do in the manual, I was thinking that hte longer side should go into the wheel for more support, but not sure cause the manual says shallow boss towards the wheel.
agreed, i think the manual words are misleading, but the picture is correct.

review the picture 'step 27', if you notice the longer boss is out. another key is that the clamping screw is on top and forward on the axle, which puts the longer boss outwards.

no matter, flip it whichever way it gets you the desired rear width with wheels centered that you want. i don't think the thicker vs thinner boss really makes much difference to wheel support.
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Old 09-07-2010, 05:14 AM
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THe shorter boss on the hub goes towards the bearing. The longer side into the wheel. I will check and fix the instructions if it indeed says that.
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Old 09-07-2010, 05:16 AM
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Originally Posted by whynot View Post
Where do the 3 copper ball studs go?
2 go on the lower front arms for the damper tube and 1 on the shock mount. If anyone needs any help please feel free to ask.
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Old 09-07-2010, 07:52 AM
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Originally Posted by protc3 View Post
THe shorter boss on the hub goes towards the bearing. The longer side into the wheel. I will check and fix the instructions if it indeed says that.
Hi, this is from the DB12RR manual: "Note that the left clamping hub has the shallow center boss out towards the wheel. This is necessary to have symmetrical wheel spacing."
I am not sure if the Copperhead is different?
But from this and the picture I understand that the clamping hub should have the long side toward the bearing???

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Old 09-07-2010, 07:55 AM
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ok, i will fix that. Sorry for the inconvenience.
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Old 09-07-2010, 08:56 AM
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On my RR I'm shallow at the wheel and equal with 3 shims each side and 172 with JACOs. Does this mean I have something wrong?
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Old 09-07-2010, 11:05 AM
  #687  
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Will the new front copper head sus. fit on REV4 Speedmerchant?
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Old 09-07-2010, 11:39 AM
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so with the jaco wheels part DB4050 is the trick for rear spacing?
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Old 09-07-2010, 11:46 AM
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Originally Posted by OVA View Post
Will the new front copper head sus. fit on REV4 Speedmerchant?
I matched up the rev 5 chassis and it will fit. If the hole spacing is the same on the rev 4 then it will be a direct bolt on.
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Old 09-07-2010, 11:46 AM
  #690  
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Originally Posted by pmes View Post
so with the jaco wheels part DB4050 is the trick for rear spacing?
yes it is.
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