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Old 04-10-2004, 09:59 PM   #61
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Originally posted by Aku-Man
That four scale system look really nice. Is that custom made?
Yes, but I did not make it. I purshased it from ebay
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Old 04-10-2004, 10:15 PM   #62
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Those scales look sweet. Longacre sells a set of scales for RC racing for like $900. My set for scaling full scale cars was only $750 8 years ago but still.
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Old 04-10-2004, 10:29 PM   #63
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hmmm im gonna purchase 4 scales for the local track....i think itll be a nice investment
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Old 04-10-2004, 10:40 PM   #64
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Originally posted by R/C Anonymous
hmmm im gonna purchase 4 scales for the local track....i think itll be a nice investment
Everyone's going to be like, "No, get away, its MY TURN TO USE THE SCALES~!!!"
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Old 04-10-2004, 10:42 PM   #65
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You saw those Longacre r/c scales too? I couldn't beleive it when I opened the catalog! Now if Intercomp made a set, it'd be even better yet! lol
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Old 04-10-2004, 10:43 PM   #66
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btw, everything Speedie said about adjusting cross and left/right front/rear is exactly right, especially about adjusting all 4 corners at the same time.
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Old 04-10-2004, 10:45 PM   #67
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It was so simple at first but this thread made it more complicated for me.
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Old 04-10-2004, 10:46 PM   #68
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Default Re: Re: Weight Distribution - How to do perfectly?

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Originally posted by SpeediePHATT
Nothing wrong with a little confusion. You would be surprised at some of the people running 50 thousand dollar full scale race cars that dont understand this. First thing to do is set your ride heights, be as precise as you can. Then scale it. first thing to set is front/rear and Left/ right balance. No matter how much you jack on the coilover it wont change these percentages. These have to be set with physical weight placement in the car. I have been running my TC3 with 51% front weight. It all depends on how you drive. More front more steering, more rear more rear traction. Your almost perfect left right and your at 52% rear as it is. alwayse push down on the chassis before you take a weight to settle the suspension.

Once you get that done set your ride heights again. Now this is the part that people dont understand. You can jack your wedge into shape without changing ride heights much. You have to adjust all 4 collars at the same time. What your trying to do is get the front and rear numbers equal. You need weight on the right front so you would put a turn in the RF and LR and take the same amount out of the LF and RR. This will shift the wedge without changing ride height. Dont make big adjustments I wouldnt do more than a turn at a time till I went over, then back 1/2 turn and so on till its right.

Alwayse keep checking ride height if you make alot of changes. With the L/R at 50% and ride height set acurately you shouldnt have to adjust much to get it perfect if those two things are right.
Speedie, i just sorta jumped on this thread and started reading. When you say check ride height, are you actually measuring the height of the chassis from the ground or what? I'm missing something here I think.
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Old 04-10-2004, 10:48 PM   #69
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As you balence the chassis, check the ride height, how many MM the chassis is off the ground, so you don't throw off too much of the ride height when you adjust the preload. And he said adjust all four corners at the same time.

Just had to reply. Correct me if I'm wrong.
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Old 04-10-2004, 11:13 PM   #70
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Quote:
Originally posted by SpeediePHATT
Those scales look sweet. Longacre sells a set of scales for RC racing for like $900. My set for scaling full scale cars was only $750 8 years ago but still.
The setup was purchased for $178. Those postal scales are only about $35 each. They read at least 1500 grams. The only problem is the scales turn off after 90 seconds. I then have to turn them on again. Makes me work faster.
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Old 04-10-2004, 11:16 PM   #71
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Yup thats what I meant. Its easier when you scale it with wheels on. thats the only thing I dont like about the integy scale setup. I set ride height first last and in between steps. Its a way to double check.
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Old 04-10-2004, 11:18 PM   #72
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That doesnt just work on scales either. The four adjustment way. Thats also how it should be done on a tweak board. Its the same adjustment just a different tool.
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Old 04-11-2004, 05:56 PM   #73
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Speedie:

Hi,

I was thinking about getting some longacre scales for Karting. I have found some for just under $1000. I also saw the r/c scales from longacre. to bad I can't use one for both.
as for explaination on scaling and weight jacking I found this to be in line with what I have learned from road course racing. and is what I use in the R/C racing. I usally have Jason's kart scaled before the start of the season and after any really heavy shunts (only one so far).

BTW:

what class(es) do you run on dirt??????

Thanks
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Old 04-11-2004, 08:05 PM   #74
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We run a dirt late model. Im the wrench.
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Old 04-12-2004, 06:15 PM   #75
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Default wedge adjustment

the previous post is 100 percent correct on how to adjust wedge,EQUAL turns in and out on opposite corners.it does not matter at all what the spring rates are in the front and rear as long as you adjust them equally all you are doing is shifting the weight on the springs that is why the ride height will not change.this is why a bubble level tweak gauge doesnt work properly ,it will help but it doesnt take into account that weight shifts diagonally in the car also.as for the post saying the integy unit isnt reading properly i often find weights close to his in other peoples cars(tc3 especially)after setting wedge properly they cant believe the difference it their car.the other huge benefit if the weights are the same and nothing else was changed you know the car will be exactly the same as the last time you used the setup.this is how all real race cars are setup consistantly.
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