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Old 04-08-2004, 02:49 PM   #16
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Default Brueders Ride

My brother drives ST-15 (Tower Hobby model or something), and my motor is an Associated, as far as specific model and all, I can't read it without removing it. I bought the car from a friend, so I don't know the real specifics. One other thing of note, is that when I got it I was using 1500s as batteries, but recently bought a 2000s, and the difference and pretty noticeable. Do you have any estimates as to what I am hitting?
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Old 04-08-2004, 02:56 PM   #17
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Still hard to tell what speeds you're hitting. 1500 to 2000 m if same voltage should be exact same speed. 1500 to 2000 or whatever has to do with capacity only. 2000 will just run longer, but not be any faster. The cell's voltage will affect the speed as will the way you charge them, at what amps. Also depends on what AE motor it is, how much wear the comm and brushes have, springs, etc. Doesn't seem like much, but these things will greatly affect the speed. Some battery manufacturers claim that there is a difference of 20% in speed just in the timing of the charge and what amps you charge your batteries, and that's the same set of batteries done different ways.
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Old 04-08-2004, 02:56 PM   #18
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if your gonna run some hott mods i would recommend some inexpensive matched 3300's
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Old 04-08-2004, 03:00 PM   #19
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Sorry. Don't mean to get too tech on you, and I know you're just trying to get a ballpark figure, but its like asking which Porsche is the fastest without knowing model, motor, etc.
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Old 04-08-2004, 03:31 PM   #20
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Default no problem

no no, it is completely ok, I appreciate all the input. I find all of this interesting. Learn a lot just from these talks. What I am going to do is, find a long vacant street, a have a friend drive witht he car in a car, and then just use the speedometer to see what it says. My guess is that it is close to 20-25mph.
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Old 04-08-2004, 03:40 PM   #21
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To go faster with existing set up, go a couple of teeth up on pinion gear (make sure you don't go over manufacturer's suggestions for car). Or change gear and check heat on motor and esc after a minute or so. If too hot to hold finger on either for 5 seconds, its running too hot. Gearing will gain lots of speed.
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Old 04-09-2004, 01:47 PM   #22
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Default ok something else

OK I want to know ho wlong a normal battery should last. I ran my car for 9 minutes, and the battery was dead. Is this normal. I am using a 2000m battery.

And does anyone know a good book or something to get me up to speed on all this stuff. I.e.: Motor maintenance, etc.
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Old 04-09-2004, 02:43 PM   #23
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Speed control with reverse = Novak Super rooster.
It has no motor limit.

Motor you want would be the lowest wind you think you can handle. If you don't want to be rebuilding it all the time get a Orion Revolution or Peak Vantage motor with endurance brushes (endurance brushes are easier on the comm but have slightly less punch). I think you can go all the way to 6 turn with these motors.

At this point your car will have to be well hooked up to control. As you said you are smoking him off the line now... that's easy to do with electric as it revs up so fast. Nitro just takes a bit to get going.

If you want the most punch and the longest run time you can get a brushless system. That has the added advantage of not needing to mantain the motors much.

"I can run 2 miles in 7min 42secs" You realize that would be 3:51 mile pace. Are you going to the olympics this year? The world record is right around 7:50

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Old 04-09-2004, 02:51 PM   #24
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This BOOK will get you up to speed.

8 or 9 minutes is normal for 2000 on the street. You slip and slide a lot so your not pulling heavy amps all the time. Running it hard on a carpet track with tons of traction can drain a 2000 pack in 5-6 minutes if you drive clean (ie... no stopping all the time because you hit something and have to be martialed).

I honestly think what you are going to want is a BRUSHLESS system.
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Old 04-09-2004, 03:14 PM   #25
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Ya, the Novak brushless 5800 system has the same power as a 11-12turn motor, with correct gear ratio, it can hit 40mph+. The good thing is it requires almost no maintainance and it has reverse.
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Old 04-09-2004, 03:17 PM   #26
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Its also nice, cause you can turn reverse off. It willl be hard to ever race with it, but most racers at a higher level have more than one system anyway. I think the 5800 would be great.
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Old 04-09-2004, 04:09 PM   #27
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Default brushless.. me like

Brushless does sound the way to go. About the 7:42 2 mile run, I mean about 14 in two miles, about 7 for one. Whoops... thanks for the heads up... haha.

I will check out the book. I will see, about the motors. Brushless would probably be better in the long run. I found a Duratrax for $60 that would handle a 8T motor and had reverse... I thought that was a pretty good deal.

I will probably eventually race, as it is the next step, but until then, I am going to just enjoy whooping my brothers ride.
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Old 04-09-2004, 05:37 PM   #28
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Electric and nitro, two very different, get an nitro if you want to compete with him, there are so many RTRs out there right now that can be upgraded to competion level cars. Electric can be more expensive than nitro in the long run . . . .
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Old 04-09-2004, 06:54 PM   #29
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Default the competition

The whole competition is kinda really about the whole Eletric versus Nitro. I mean in the long run, Nitros will always be faster, but, he doesn't expect how fast my Electric will be. I can't wait to see the look on his face, when I totally waste him.

I'm getting a 10t, a new ESC, and eventually i will get a brushless, but I think I will do that when I finally get the Pro 4.
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Old 04-09-2004, 07:30 PM   #30
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He'll be amazed by the acelleration that electric has over nitro . . .
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