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Old 04-07-2004, 03:52 AM   #16
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Originally posted by Joe B
(GFX) 30 amp discharged to .9 volts per cell as a whole pack then put on the Indi trey at 1.75amps to get the .9volts per cell confirmation.....when you take them off the trey the cells bounce back to about 1.20 with a slight fluctuation so there's really no way to keep the cells at a steady voltage with out using the dead short method and even when you do that you have to solder the wire on the pack while it's still on the trey with the cells reading zero..and then taking it off......
Now, this is what I call good testing. Have you considered writing an article about it, and post it here on RCTech under Tips'n'Tricks?

BTW, maybe I should consider a new tray... I'm racing stock class
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Old 04-07-2004, 04:13 AM   #17
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Originally posted by Cole Trickle
Check this Integy equalizer . It's very similar to the Rayspeed and it's 59,50$.

About connections, the cells are soldered together, so there aint any need for 6 connections, 4 is enough.
Integy just lowered the price - it's around 40$ by now...
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Old 04-07-2004, 09:07 AM   #18
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I have a question. Is there any chance of cell reversal on a tray like the trinity realtime 2.5 which is a resistor only tray? If you leave the pack on the tray until the lights go out how can the pack get to reversal point? Or is there really no way its gonna happen? I leave it on the tray until the lights go out. But when one cell goes out before another I dont unscrew that cell I usually leave it on until all lights are out then deadshort. Is this ok what I am doing? Is this what other people are doing?
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Old 04-07-2004, 10:00 AM   #19
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Originally posted by syntex1
i just had a look at the team much more zero v rack pretty cheap and looks good
Surikarn is using exactly this Team Much More rack. Seems to me itīs similar to a Trinity Realtime which is a resistor only tray.
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Old 04-07-2004, 10:15 AM   #20
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Originally posted by Cole Trickle
[B]Here we go again, cut-off at 0,9 volt or all the way to zero?

It's very true, there aint any risk of cell reversal, when it's done on an equalizer, which handle each cell individually.

But still, some says GP cells dont like to go to zero volt, while others say they do.
GP 3300 NI-MH cells should NOT be discharged to zero volts! My advice to people who buy our batteries is to not discharge your packs after a race, simply store them. The next race day, take them out and tray them. Then recharge them immediately after. If your still set on discharging them after use don't discharge below .90 volts or use light bulbs! Bad idea!

Storing your NI-MH cells for extended periods of time is what causes the damage to the anodes of the cell! The chemical alloys they are composed of deteriorate RAPIDLY when left when little or no charge!
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Old 04-07-2004, 10:19 AM   #21
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Originally posted by ghuber
GP 3300 NI-MH cells should NOT be discharged to zero volts! My advice to people who buy our batteries is to not discharge your packs after a race, simply store them. The next race day, take them out and tray them. Then recharge them immediately after. If your still set on discharging them after use don't discharge below .90 volts per cell or use light bulbs or chargers that cut-off at 5.40 vols. These methods don't ensure each cell is discharged to .90 volts, only ensuring the total voltage of the pack (all cells combined) is 5.40 volts.

Storing your NI-MH cells for extended periods of time is what causes the damage to the anodes of the cell! The chemical alloys they are composed of deteriorate RAPIDLY when left when little or no charge!
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Old 04-07-2004, 10:25 AM   #22
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So basically your saying you should store them in a part charged state and then before the next time you charge them for racing, you should tray them, bring them down to 0.9v and then charge straight after?
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Old 04-07-2004, 10:26 AM   #23
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Originally posted by Cole Trickle
Integy just lowered the price - it's around 40$ by now...
Where is it for $40? I still see $59.50 on their site.

Does the integy do as good a job as the rayspeed?
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Old 04-07-2004, 11:03 AM   #24
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Originally posted by Sleighty
So basically your saying you should store them in a part charged state and then before the next time you charge them for racing, you should tray them, bring them down to 0.9v and then charge straight after?
Yup that's right.. You can charge them immediately after discharging them as long as they aren't very warm or hot to touch. You may even find they take more of a charge then usual, likely due the the anodes being 'excited' by the discharging that occured a short time before charging.
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Old 04-07-2004, 12:35 PM   #25
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the RAYSPEED/YOKOMO is the best by far, plus it looks super cool.
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Old 04-07-2004, 12:41 PM   #26
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Anyone finding that the fan is causing a problem on the rayspeed. Lately it's been slow to warm up, sort of like the reedy quasar pro fans. Maybe it needs to be replaced?
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Old 04-07-2004, 01:18 PM   #27
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Thumbs up Rayspeed

for anyone looking for an equalizing tray.. i HIGHLY recommend the Rayspeed one.

one of the poles that holds the screws in mine stripped.. i got a replacement part instantly. Robert Itoh (sp?) provides the BEST customer service out there. HIGHLY RECOMMENDED!

Quote:
Originally posted by John Fontaine
Anyone finding that the fan is causing a problem on the rayspeed. Lately it's been slow to warm up, sort of like the reedy quasar pro fans. Maybe it needs to be replaced?
John... call up Robert at Yokomo... he'll be able to help you out. i havent experienced any problems with my fan yet on my rayspeed discharger. i also have it sit on top of another fan from radio shack.
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Old 04-08-2004, 12:13 AM   #28
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Hey Gary from surge ,Don't take this the wrong way but,(aren't you guys one of the many new matcher's on the scene).....To point blank say, never to take GP3300's to zero volts....Im assuming you dont think the deadshorting of these cells should "ever" be done under any circumstance ...(since they must first be brought down to zero volts) It sounds a little funny that plenty of the top national drivers do just that very thing with their GP 3300's with great results....mabe you could let the guys over at (SMC) (you know, "the big guys")know to change their updated recomendations for the charging of the GP3300's.....check out their website www.smc-racing.com .......the fact of the matter , is that there is no "one fits all" method to use for batterys whether were talking about charging amperage....discharge method....equalizing preference.....and storage methods.....the many variables and methods will yield different results that may be better for one type of racing over another...thats why people do it....try to keep an open mind
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Old 04-08-2004, 01:39 AM   #29
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Quote:
Originally posted by Joe B
.......the fact of the matter , is that there is no "one fits all" method to use for batterys whether were talking about charging amperage....discharge method....equalizing preference.....and storage methods.....the many variables and methods will yield different results that may be better for one type of racing over another...thats why people do it....try to keep an open mind
I agree, it seems that we all have our different and prefferred methods of battery care for GP 3300. Well said Joe....

AERacer,

Just look in the pits @ your track and talk to any of the guys who are fast every week....they should be able to give you some advice....
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Old 04-08-2004, 06:04 AM   #30
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Quote:
Originally posted by Hebiki

John... call up Robert at Yokomo... he'll be able to help you out. i
I gave Robert @ Yokomo a call yesterday, still waiting for his response.
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