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Old 03-04-2010, 08:20 PM   #46
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Yeah, you're good to go with the KO stuff.
i like your setup though. wish I would have figured that out and then could have gotten use to the servo at 5.7v. I may just run a 2s with a zener to drop the voltage to the speedo down below 7v. it seam the easiest for me and still get the 8.4v to the servo.
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Old 03-05-2010, 10:03 AM   #47
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Yes putting a reciver battery in line with the switch looks pretty good. A little dangerous to let people start doing mods like this, but it is pretty straight forward and should be more robust than a booster or regulator.

You really only need to use another 1S lipo in the switch line. Now we are getting down to little micro helicopter batteries.

With this modification the voltage cutoff WILL NOT WORK.

Good options for 1S setups with the RS.

LiFe 6.6v receiver pack

4 cell, 5 cell or 6 cell Nimh or NiCd

1s or 2s lipo in line with the switch.

2s lipo with a 6v regulator

Booster connected to the main 1S lipo

Using a Diode to drop the voltage of a 2S is not bad, but a little more complicated to wire if you want full voltage to the servo.

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Old 03-05-2010, 10:16 AM   #48
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Is removing the red lead from the esc an option? When using. The battery in line with the switch, does it matter if the esc is checked for 1s or not.
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Old 03-05-2010, 10:34 AM   #49
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We need the higher voltage to run the brains from somewhere. In these setups where we are supply the higher voltage to the receiver the red wire has to be in place so we can use it.

The mod into the switch wire needs the red wire so the receiver and servo can get its power from us.

It never hurts to check the 1S box even in 2S. In some setups that is what makes the low voltage cutoff work. In some cases like this switch wire mod the low voltage cutoff does not work no matter what you do.
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Old 03-05-2010, 10:51 AM   #50
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ok. I was uner the impression that the esc did not need 6v to operate.

I remember reading in the earlier RS days (before 1s support), that people would removed the red lead and the esc would only get 1s voltage from the main battery pack and everything else would get 2s voltage with an rx pack hooked up directly to the rx.

I'm going to be hooking up an rx in line with the switch. I was just exploring other options.
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Old 03-05-2010, 10:57 AM   #51
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That is how it was working early on. We were tweaking the 4cell nimh settings that allowed it to run on lower voltages without a receiver pack. Quickly the setups became so aggressive with all the dynamic timing that the 1S battery voltage is being pulled to low early in the run. We started needing the 6v to run our brains and get full power from the 1S for the entire run. Otherwise we have to reduce throttle to stay alive, or keep the receiver alive since it dies first typically.
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Old 03-05-2010, 01:53 PM   #52
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TeamTekin View Post
Yes putting a reciver battery in line with the switch looks pretty good. A little dangerous to let people start doing mods like this, but it is pretty straight forward and should be more robust than a booster or regulator.

You really only need to use another 1S lipo in the switch line. Now we are getting down to little micro helicopter batteries.

With this modification the voltage cutoff WILL NOT WORK.

Good options for 1S setups with the RS.

LiFe 6.6v receiver pack

5cell or 6 cell Nimh or NiCd

1s or 2s lipo in line with the switch.

2s lipo with a 6v regulator

Booster connected to the main 1S lipo

Using a Diode to drop the voltage of a 2S is not bad, but a little more complicated to wire if you want full voltage to the servo.

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Did you forget this one? or leave it out because it is not a good option?


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Old 03-05-2010, 02:00 PM   #53
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Yes 4cell is good for us also unless the servo load is enough to pull it low at times. Some of the new servos are pretty hungry and we really want to see 5V min on the BEC. The lower voltage will also effect servo performance at least some.

I updated my list to include 4cell receiver packs.
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Old 03-05-2010, 02:16 PM   #54
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Originally Posted by TeamTekin View Post
Yes 4cell is good for us also unless the servo load is enough to pull it low at times. Some of the new servos are pretty hungry and we really want to see 5V min on the BEC. The lower voltage will also effect servo performance at least some.

I updated my list to include 4cell receiver packs.
using a 1/12 scale servo
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Old 03-07-2010, 10:53 PM   #55
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I'm a little concerned about my speed control now. Up until this thread, I was running the "wrong" way. About a month ago, I had a problem where the radio system would just "die" for a few seconds. I assumed it was a problem with the receiver and swapped it. After reading this thread I converted to the Lipo wired in the switch line. Worked great for a round and then the problem came back after doing some tweaks in hotwire. I did a discharge test on the 300mah lipo to make sure it wasn't going south. Checked fine. All the connections seemed good. Tried a receiver rebind and it had problems rebinding. Which is something I have seen when they don't have enough voltage.

I turned the lipo cutoff "off" and the problem seems to have gone away.
I'm not real confident it is really fixed.

Any chance the internal regulator could be acting up causing the receiver to power down?

Would a voltmeter on the power rail of the receiver show any problems with the regulator circuit?
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Old 03-12-2010, 09:10 AM   #56
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Need to try and see what the lights are doing during the shutdown, and listen. I realize this can be difficult, but if we know what the lights are doing we know what is going on in most cases. If the esc is rebooting completely which does take a few seconds you should hear the chimes. If the receiver is browing out

Do you have steering during the shutdown?
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Old 03-12-2010, 12:45 PM   #57
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Originally Posted by TeamTekin View Post
Need to try and see what the lights are doing during the shutdown, and listen. I realize this can be difficult, but if we know what the lights are doing we know what is going on in most cases. If the esc is rebooting completely which does take a few seconds you should hear the chimes. If the receiver is browing out

Do you have steering during the shutdown?
Nothing, completely dead.
It has been really strange how the failures have occurred.

First time I had the issue I was running the "bad" setup with the 2 cell lipo directly into the receiver. It behaved a lot like a sensored only setup would with a bad sensor wire. I put the car down on the track, walked to the drivers stand, and then the motor was dead but I still had servo. I walked to the car and bumped it and it seemed to work. Back at the drivers stand, no go. At this point I assumed that since it seemed to be related to distance from the car that it was a receiver problem. I use the spektrum receiver that is known for antenna problems. SO i put a new antenna on, still the problem came back a week later. So then I put a new receiver in. IT was fine for another week. In the meantime, I found this thread. I converted to the pack inline with the receiver switch. Came to the track and ran 2 rounds no problem. Then, had the car go dead at the end of the straight sending it into the boards at full speed.
I did a discharge test on the rec pack, checked all connections, wiggled things while powered, checked the antenna, did a rebind. Everything seemed rock solid. Even did some practice laps. Now next round I set the car on the track and when I got to the drivers stand - NO GO . Nothing. No steering. I walked near the car and it started working again.
Walked to the drivers stand. Nothing.

Now, I realize it sounds a lot like a receiver problem at this point. The fact that two different receivers have done it and the fact that the behavior of the problem changed when I went to the speed control doing the regulation of the rec pack, I'm still slightly suspect about the speed control.

Because now the steering goes out too.

I changed the car to NO lipo cutoff and strangely enough got through the main without issue. And ran another pack in practice afterwards.
Hmmmm.

Still could be connectors and maybe rec. pack too. I really haven't ruled anything out at this point.

I plan on sitting down with the car tonight and going over everything with a magnifying glass. Thing is, it has never given me problems on the bench - Other than the one time it was having trouble rebinding.

I wish I had a tiny graphing voltmeter I could put on the power rail of the receiver. Even though it sometimes acts like a radio "range" problem my gut is that its a power issue.

Thanks for bearing with all the fine details. Up to now both my Tekin and Spektrum gear have been absolutely bulletproof and fast as hell.

I can't wait to get to the bottom of it and get back to winning.

If I can get it to act up at home I'll let you know what the lights are doing. The one time at the track a marshall was standing by it when it came back to life - it appeared to be "rebooting" and reloading software. Don't know if that is accurate. Just what the Tekin user that saw it thought.
So far it only seems to fully act up on the track. Guess I need a chassis dyno to troubleshoot this one.
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Old 03-12-2010, 03:23 PM   #58
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I have a rs and have a dead throttle. if i quickly give full throttle and let of the motor does not even move. i have to hold the throttle and then it will go. throttle response is very bad. i know it is the rs because i changed the motor, battery and it didn't fix. i replaced the rs and now precise throttle action. my question is what is causing the rs to do this and what would it cost to fix and replace the on off switch because it was cut off? i want to see if it is worth fixing. thanks
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Old 03-12-2010, 05:36 PM   #59
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I have a rs and have a dead throttle. if i quickly give full throttle and let of the motor does not even move. i have to hold the throttle and then it will go. throttle response is very bad. i know it is the rs because i changed the motor, battery and it didn't fix. i replaced the rs and now precise throttle action. my question is what is causing the rs to do this and what would it cost to fix and replace the on off switch because it was cut off? i want to see if it is worth fixing. thanks
I had that issue before and had to downgrade the software to something lower than v203 and then upgrade back to v203 and recalibrate the throttle. Haven't had any issues since then.
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Old 03-14-2010, 04:14 PM   #60
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Nothing, completely dead.
It has been really strange how the failures have occurred.

.
Well, NEVERMIND!

I'm TQ and fast lap right now with the same speedo.

Wish me luck in the mains. Thanks Tekin!

Moral of the story - It hard to troubleshoot when your "control" is bad two.

I've got two bad spektrum SR3100 receivers now. The problem was intermittent and I never guessed TWO receivers had the same intermittent problem. Now both of them won't even bind and we tried 3 different transmitters. Easier to troubleshoot things when they don't work.
Bought two more receivers and all is well. Oh well.

I'm sure Spektrum/Horizon will treat me right. Bad batch I guess?
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