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Old 04-09-2002, 08:06 AM   #301
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that was funny pyscho - get spanked all over the track LOL. I can only tell you what I've seen at my track. The guys who are running regular stock motors are not the fastest at all, they are the ones spinning out, running into the walls and hitting other drivers because the motor is too much, but again this is what I see at my track. I'm not against running a stock motor don't get me wrong but for someone like Ian who NEVER ran electric he should probably work his way up to a 23 or a 24 degree motor. Everone wants to go fast but no one wants to take the time to progress into it.

Ian - Let us know what Spur size you are running and we can tell you where you need to be. Pyscho pretty much summed it up nicely. The fantom motors are very good. They have Mod motors as well as stock motors so be wise on your purchase. They also have a 36 degree closed endbell motor, way fast but not legal if your running competitive races.

This is what I run
RS 540 motor
64 pitch
100T spur
21T pinion
4.76 FDR (final gear ratio)

I have the following pinions just in case
16
17
18
19
20
21
25
I need to get
26
27
28

Last edited by Mike F; 04-09-2002 at 08:09 AM.
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Old 04-09-2002, 10:25 AM   #302
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Ian.

I totally agree with what Mike F is saying. Since the drivetrain is very simple and efficient, the cars don't need as much power as a sedan due to lack of drag on the drivetrain. I run at some fairly large tracks and lately, we've had pretty long straightaways, so anything other than a fast 24 degree motor doesn't cut it. Since the Cross car has so much grip, you should have no problem with using a 24 degree stock motor if you can tame down the steering. I would suggest getting a Reedy MVP motor if you can find one. If you get the Fantom version, it should be essentially the same thing. Replace the stock brushes with Trinity 4499's, use the stock springs and align the brush hoods. You may have to slightly enlarge the spring post hole to get the alignment right. I assume you are running the stock 100T .4 spurgear that came with the car. If so, pick up a 19T, 20T and 21T 64 pitch pinions. One of those should make your car one of the quickest on the track with that motor. BTW, the stock pinion is 24T. It's too tall for the tracks that I run at, so I don't use it.

Here's a couple things you can do if you have problems with the backend coming around on the car. First off, go easy on the throttle! Nice and smooth! I run 15 degrees of caster. Yeah, I really do! You need to get the adjustable upper link set you get that much caster, though. You'll also want to get a guage that can go that high. Many of them only go up to 10 degrees. If you don't have that hop-up, use the 10 degree upper arm. Adjust your dual rate down as low as you can get it and still make the tight turns. Make the diff as loose as you can get it and so there is a little slip. I set mine so there is about a half second of slip if I go full throttle from a standstill. You'll want to adjust that for your taste. Throw away those crappy Cross diff plates. They are too soft. Buy a Tamiya F103 diff rebuild kit. They should cost you the equivalent of $5USD. I run foam tires where I race, so I use purples up front and greys in the rear on carpet and pinks in the rear on asphalt. I've used Ride Type A grooved tires before and they work pretty well. Try saucing your tires too. The fast guys in your area can tell you which is the best one to use. I sometimes use throttle exponential to tame it down too. If you race on a track with a lot of grip, try replacing the stock rear axle with the Tamiya graphite axle and replace the stock rear hubs with the Tamiya lightweight blue hubs. This will really improve your acceleration due to less rotating mass. On the other hand, if your track doesn't have a lot of grip, use the steel axle and the heavier Cross hubs and it will help keep the backend more planted. Good luck!
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Old 04-09-2002, 10:31 AM   #303
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mike-what i have on my kit is 94t spur....and one more thing read somewhere that u have to lower the pinion teeth if your foam tires has wear off....is this correct??as 23t stock is more aavailable in Asia so i guess i would purchase 17-21t pinion for starters....is that good??yes, i'm also learning to have a smooth throttle control ....so far i think i did quite well cos the only kit i have run is my SP12.....Cross and Pro3 just built and have yet to run....on my 1/12th i'm running 4cell 12x2 motor....so far the 12th scale has been a blast(been running with nitro cars...this small car is FAST!!!)....so for my cross i'm gonna paint an F1 and also a GT1 bodies...hmmm...i might even be hooked on 2 wheel drive cars and my Pro3 might even end up as a display car(by the way i just bought 2 of this).........as for my nitro...it's already been a display car ever since i own electric

Last edited by Ian; 04-09-2002 at 10:40 AM.
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Old 04-09-2002, 10:31 AM   #304
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Mike F

I race with some really fast guys. I mean, these guys usually finish 4 or 5 laps up on the rest of the field. I guess that's why they are sponsored, eh? In fact, we tried having one guy run with a Tamiya black can motor while the rest of us used our 24 degree motors. Eh, well, the result was pretty much the same, but at least he wasn't blowing by us on the back straight!
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Old 04-09-2002, 10:40 AM   #305
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Ian

I'd probably go with 17, 18 and 19 with a 94 spur. Here's what the ratios will be.

17/94 = 5.53
18/94 = 5.22
19/94 = 4.95

Keep in mind that we in the US don't run 23T motors, so we're not giving you advice based on those motors. If you have more torque in the high rpm range like modified motors do, than you want you gear with a higher ratio (smaller pinion and bigger spur.) It would be a good idea to get a larger spurgear so you have more gearing choices. You may find that you need to be somewhere that your current combination cannot give you. Kimbrough makes spurgears for the Cross/Tamiya/Kyosho F1 cars in 100T and 104T, so I would suggest getting one of those. Otherwise the Tamiya .4 white spurgear set will also work, but it won't be as smooth as the Kimbrough since you can put more diff balls in the kimbrough gear.
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Old 04-09-2002, 10:43 AM   #306
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Quote:
Originally posted by Ian
mike-what i have on my kit is 94t spur....and one more thing read somewhere that u have to lower the pinion teeth if your foam tires has wear off....is this correct??as 23t stock is more aavailable in Asia so i guess i would purchase 17-21t pinion for starters....is that good??yes, i'm also learning to have a smooth throttle control ....so far i think i did quite well cos the only kit i have run is my SP12.....Cross and Pro3 just built and have yet to run....on my 1/12th i'm running 4cell 12x2 motor....so far the 12th scale has been a blast(been running with nitro cars...this small car is FAST!!!)....so for my cross i'm gonna paint an F1 and also a GT1 bodies...hmmm...i might even be hooked on 2 wheel drive cars and my Pro3 might even end up as a display car(by the way i just bought 2 of this).........as for my nitro...it's already been a display car ever since i own electric
psycho- i know US doesnt have a 23t...but i know u guys can help me find a gearing where i could start with...u guys has been very helpful
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Old 04-09-2002, 02:01 PM   #307
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now you got me thinking about putting my P2k2 in F-1 just to see how it handles, if it's faster and if it will last the 5 minutes. I guess I'll start out with 100T / 21 (same FDR that I am at with the RS 540) and work my way down to about a 17T

Ian - no problem on the assistance, this is probably one of the best sites (as well as formula1_rc) to get set up tips and info on F-1's
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Old 04-09-2002, 02:12 PM   #308
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go on! try it mike...make it fly
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Old 04-09-2002, 02:25 PM   #309
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Mike F

Allign the brush hoods, install Trinity 4499 brushes and purple spring on positive and red on negative. Enjoy!
That's also a good choice for sedan. That's what I run my XXX-S.
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Old 04-09-2002, 02:27 PM   #310
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BTW, underscore (_) is an illegal character in DNS. It's www.formula1-rc.com
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Old 04-09-2002, 03:49 PM   #311
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Quote:
Originally posted by psycho
BTW, underscore (_) is an illegal character in DNS. It's www.formula1-rc.com
I didn't know that, thanks. I knew you would know the website so I took a chance. Ian there's some good information in that website.

Brush hoods have been aligned several weeks ago, 4499 brushes already installed, red +, and green - springs but I'll have to try that combo that you mentioned. Don't know if our LHS carries the purple springs though, are they trinity springs? My P2K2 has seen no action since I got my BigJim P2K motor and my TRIBO

Last edited by Mike F; 04-09-2002 at 03:51 PM.
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Old 04-09-2002, 06:26 PM   #312
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Yeah, sorry about that. The ones I use are Trinity springs. The actually sell a set that has one purple positive and one red negative. I think they call it a "polarized spring set."
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Old 04-09-2002, 10:22 PM   #313
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Schumacher USA has Cross FireForce F-1 cars, bodies and every hop-up/spare part instock right now. You can order on line at:

http://www.racing-cars.com/shop.asp

There is a link after you log in for "Echo, Power, Cross, Alclad,..."

Click on that and you will see the entire Cross Racing parts list for the F-1.
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Old 04-10-2002, 08:12 AM   #314
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hi
i'm trying to look for someone thats willing to help me get some cross parts from the states...by the way i'm from Asia and in my part of the world we have limited stock...if anyone is willing to help i would send out the payment first...it will cover the cost of parts and shipping....also the person will be rewarded....no details of reward would be post here.....i will keep it between us
please PM me.....i would really be grateful for your help
thanks
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Old 04-10-2002, 09:08 AM   #315
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Quote:
Originally posted by psycho
Yeah, sorry about that. The ones I use are Trinity springs. The actually sell a set that has one purple positive and one red negative. I think they call it a "polarized spring set."
cool, thanks pyscho - I'll get a set and let you know how it does.
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