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Associated 12R6
https://www.teamassociated.com/cars_.../Factory_Team/ Jul 2017 release
DISCUSSION THREAD - Team Associated 12R6

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Old 03-04-2005, 12:16 AM
  #11596  
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[QUOTE]Originally posted by CypressMidWest
[B]Wow, That seems very different form my recent testing of tire compounds. I've always found that softer tires offer more forward traction and less lateral bite.

As an example, my car is generally TOO hooked up in the middle of the corner when running Grey rears, so I have moved to pink rears. The car now has TONS of forward traction, but remains more free in the middle of the turn allowing the car to carry more speed. The pinks are also less likely to "give up" rear bite before the end of the run . For some reason I never have had any luck with white rears, regardless of track conditions. They seem to get "greasy" around the seven minute mark.

I've also found that Purple fronts can get hot in extremely high bite conditions and glaze over, making them feel very erratic. I'm a big fan of Tan front tires as they seem to offer the handling characteristics of the Purple with the consistency of the Magenta compound.

Ian,

I agree.

Pink is a long wear rubber and actually lasts longer than a grey. Probably is also due to it being a little more hooked up and not sliding. I also find that more forward bit is given on a pink rear and since the rubber is softer it tends to have more side wall flex hence freeing up the rear end a little.

Wait a minnute. I am a touring car driver. NEVERMIND LOL
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Old 03-04-2005, 12:21 AM
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the teflon disks are from CRC
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Old 03-04-2005, 01:05 AM
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Originally posted by revzalot
Sorry if this is a dumb question but will Radio Shack 16 awg wires work fine?
I wouldn't think so - there are not very many strands of wire in that wire.

See, electrons travel on the surface ONLY of each strand, so the more strands there are, the more electrons that travel, thus more amperage, voltage, etc.

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Old 03-04-2005, 01:07 AM
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Originally posted by jrrc
the teflon disks are from CRC
That IS a nice setup.

I have my esc and receiver switched and pass the wires under the shock but over the rear bar-thing.

Hmmm, nice. . .
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Old 03-04-2005, 01:29 AM
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Originally posted by jrrc
the teflon disks are from CRC
jrrc,
That's one sweet L4. Thanks for the wire diagram.
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Old 03-04-2005, 01:33 AM
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Originally posted by Boomer
I wouldn't think so - there are not very many strands of wire in that wire.

See, electrons travel on the surface ONLY of each strand, so the more strands there are, the more electrons that travel, thus more amperage, voltage, etc.

I agree. I think maybe high end audio equipment wires should do the trick. I'll probably look for some Monster Cable wires or something.
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Old 03-04-2005, 02:01 AM
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Default question jrrc

jrrc, is there a reason that your shock is on the way it is? I thought that was upside down from all th pics and instructions I've seen. Just wondering if it makes any difference? I attached a pic from associated's web site.
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Old 03-04-2005, 02:13 AM
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I've always put my shocks on that way. They are easier to adjust. Can't see why it would make a difference. I use the Silva conversion so there are no leaks.

RC country in Sac has 16 gauge wire in the airplane dept. Thats what I used. Most of the non rc wire isn't flexible enough for 12th scale.
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Old 03-04-2005, 04:06 AM
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Everyone seems a little caught up on wire gauge at the moment, a japanese website did a small test:

http://www.kimihiko-yano.net/RadioCo...ossMeasure.htm

The speaker cable they use is about 11AWG though.

I make looms for race bikes and there is a massive difference in current capacity for different qualities of the same gauge wire.
You need high quality, silicon sheathed wire. Castle creations wire seems okay.

My twelves have 14gauge and the pods dont get bound up, and I don't need to worry about losses in the wires. Unless you are overweight or have a problem routing the wires why worry?

It was interesting that an earlier post claimed longer run times with smaller wire, I can only imagine that the wires greater resistance is reducing the current to the motor, that seems to ignore greater losses in the wires - how about turning down the punch control/current limiter or running a softer wind!?

-Scott

PS this will translate
http://babelfish.altavista.com/babelfish
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Old 03-04-2005, 05:15 AM
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Default TiCN coated kingpins

Hey everyone...
If you're running a new style Assoc. front end and your looking to smooth it out, check out the BMI 1/12 conversion forum... We have some TiCN coated kingpins that are diamond polished... I've run the same set since October and have no sign of wear!!
Wayne
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Old 03-04-2005, 07:11 AM
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I have put together my first 1/12
AE rc12l4
I race a carpet track with the longset strait-away at 35 feet
what pinion should I start at
what is a good starting rollout
Stock class 27 wind motors
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Old 03-04-2005, 08:47 AM
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Hi,

Iīm planning to start 12scale... nice class...
I think i will race standard so I need a 6 cell car... unfortunately i canīt find such a car anywhere... Here in Germany many people race Corally... I donīt like Corally so thatīs no possiblity for me.
Which car would you suggest?
And where to get? I will order anywhere in the world if the price is right because my LHS donīt carry 12scale cars...

Thanks
Chris
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Old 03-04-2005, 09:07 AM
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Originally posted by revzalot
I agree. I think maybe high end audio equipment wires should do the trick. I'll probably look for some Monster Cable wires or something.
Why not go with Dean's or Novak or something that is racing dedicated?

Racing wire has hundreds of strands. . . Monster doesn't, it's only big guage and with thick insulation.

Just get 14g Dean's or Novak or whatever racing wire that's made for racing application.
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Old 03-04-2005, 09:17 AM
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Isnt there anything other than rc companies wire?

i need more than 2 feet or whatever they give you, i tend to go through the stuff, i may have already posted this question but oh well
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Old 03-04-2005, 09:29 AM
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Team Orion also makes wires
Here's A link,


orion wire
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