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Quick question on battery tape.... Where to buy it from and is it just a good quality 3M tape? thanks.
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Originally Posted by conza3
(Post 14018397)
Quick question on battery tape.... Where to buy it from and is it just a good quality 3M tape? thanks.
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Yep, scotch strapping tape.
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I've always used a quality tape. it's so much easier to use, last longer. Normally only change it out once per event, also better at holding that lipo in place in case of a big accident
Tamiya, Top, Integy, Hudy Glass tape all worth the cost imo One roll will last several seasons Don't forget to round those carbon chassis edges where the tape passes thru http://www.tqrcracing.com/shop/product/stf.jpg |
What I use. http://www.lefthander-rc.com/catalog...roducts_id=154
Trying to source it, but it's from intertape. One 12" strip will last the whole race day. So one roll will last a few years. |
How about this tape i found on ebay which im not allowed to post a link to:
3M-SCOTCH-8981-18mm-x-55m-HIGH-PERFORMANCE-TRANSPARENT-GLASS-FILAMENT-TAPE-ROLL |
[QUOTE=RedBullFiXX;14018518]I've always used a quality tape. it's so much easier to use, last longer. Normally only change it out once per event, also better at holding that lipo in place in case of a big accident
Tamiya, Top, Integy, Hudy Glass tape all worth the cost imo One roll will last several seasons Don't forget to round those carbon chassis edges where the tape passes thru Thanks for the info guys.... Especially about rounding the edges. I am assuming i will tape in 2 sections...? |
Originally Posted by conza3
(Post 14018844)
Originally Posted by RedBullFiXX
(Post 14018518)
I've always used a quality tape. it's so much easier to use, last longer. Normally only change it out once per event, also better at holding that lipo in place in case of a big accident
Tamiya, Top, Integy, Hudy Glass tape all worth the cost imo One roll will last several seasons Don't forget to round those carbon chassis edges where the tape passes thru I am assuming i will tape in 2 sections...? |
Thanks guys…I'll scrub them in…
Per
Originally Posted by wingracer
(Post 14018226)
I have yet to run the specs on 1/12th but on WGT cars I tend to go through 2 and sometimes 3 pairs of fronts before needing a new set of rears. Mainly because I like to run the fronts pretty small but can leave the rears a little on the big side without problem.
The only thing is, don't throw a fresh set of fronts on for a race. Freshly trued fronts with run in rears can be a real handful for a few minutes. Make sure to get a run on them before race time (or lightly buzz the rears on the truer too). |
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Originally Posted by EDWARD2003
(Post 14023920)
Recently I've been testing reactive caster block angles on VRC Pro. I've noticed when switching from 9 to 6 degrees of reactive caster the car has more of a ''nose down'' feeling. Would this effect of reactive caster transfer over to real life racing? :confused: |
Ill be getting a 1/12 car this week from a friend, I think it has sat on his shelf for a good amount of time, This will be my first 1/12 size car with foam tires. How long do the tires last? I assume they dry out like my large size slot cars do. Are there any tricks to bring them back to life or will i have to replace them from drying out? Maybe low traction tires are good to learn on but could also be overly frustrating.
Thanks |
I would just buy some new tires. They pretty inexpensive compared to most RC stuff. Get what the other people at your track are running. At least then you'll be in the ballpark.
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Xenon front end
Hello, I just bought a new car with the Xenon front end. The car drives great but I'm having issues with the left to right ride height. Left side is always lower than right by about .2-.4mm. Somewhere in that range. Chassis balance seems fine as are the tire diameters. Even with setup station it's off. Anyways, after hours of troubleshooting, I think I have it down to the Xenon aluminum front bulkheads. It seems that the lower arm mounts are drilled at a very slight angle. So when you bolt an arm to one side, it very slightly angles up. Bolt it to the other side and it angles ever so slightly down. This would cause one side to be higher/lower than the other side.
Anyone have this issue? I've tried different arms and it seems to be the same. I've swapped bulkheads left to right and it's the same. I'm gonna try a set of AE bulkheads to see if that fixes it. Until then I need to shim the left and right side differently. Blah! |
I've had the exact same issue with the AE front end except it was a bent lower arm that was the cause.
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