1/12 forum

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  • I wish I had the chance to release my new 1/12th before this all happened. It was so close. Now I am going to have to wait a bit.
  • For those of you who balance the pod and chassis separately, would you mind sharing your technique? I wanted to see the difference in weight placement between the way I usually do it (whole car, using holes at very nose and tail of entirely race ready car) versus balancing them separate, but without a hole at the back of the chassis and the front of the pod I couldn't picture a reliable method. Thanks!
  • Quote: For those of you who balance the pod and chassis separately, would you mind sharing your technique? I wanted to see the difference in weight placement between the way I usually do it (whole car, using holes at very nose and tail of entirely race ready car) versus balancing them separate, but without a hole at the back of the chassis and the front of the pod I couldn't picture a reliable method. Thanks!
    There is no real reason to try and balance the pod as its not floating or moving side to side; as long as you keep the rear tires the same size it will be level and will not induce a tweak. As for the main chassis use the center pivot hole as the balance point.
  • Just assemble the car, take off your dampener tubes or side shock, and read the weight on the front and back. I use four scales so i have one for each wheel, six bucks each at Harbor Freight, and if I'm within a few grams at rest I don't worry about it.
  • Quote: I wish I had the chance to release my new 1/12th before this all happened. It was so close. Now I am going to have to wait a bit.
    No problem man...I was hoping that the batts meant you were caught up but that makes sense. Gotta do what ya can to pay the bills and take care of the family.
  • Anybody else have trouble accessing BMI's web store? I get a screen that says something is not enabled for the menu.
  • Quote: Anybody else have trouble accessing BMI's web store? I get a screen that says something is not enabled for the menu.
    Same here.
  • hitec hs-7235mh
    Anyone using hitec hs-7235mh as the steering servo for 1/12 cars, specifically Yokomo R12 ?

    the size seems similar to JR3650
  • Sorry about the webstore. I contacted Go Daddy and apparently they had someone hack into there systems and they said the repair can take from a day to 1 month to fix. If anyone needs anything, please call. Sorry for the inconvenience.
  • This season will be my first running 1/12 and I have a few questions. Our track is fairly small with medium grip carpet and we will be running 13.5 blinky. I'm planning on using a Tekin RS and was wondering what are the pros and cons between using a booster vs. a receiver pack? What would be a good neutral handling body to get started with?
  • Newbie here . Our club runs 17.5 boost 1cell , can I use any 17.5 or do I need to have a special motor?
  • Quote: This season will be my first running 1/12 and I have a few questions. Our track is fairly small with medium grip carpet and we will be running 13.5 blinky. I'm planning on using a Tekin RS and was wondering what are the pros and cons between using a booster vs. a receiver pack? What would be a good neutral handling body to get started with?
    I prefer a receiver pack, but they are a pain, I haven't found one that will go a whole day without needing to be charged. That said, the TQ booster works great, just slightly lower voltage. The Protoform AMR is the body for !/12TH, but the new Black Art Mohawk is gaining a lot of converts. See what your competition is using.

    Quote: Newbie here . Our club runs 17.5 boost 1cell , can I use any 17.5 or do I need to have a special motor?
    You can use any 17.5, but go easy on the boost and check your motor temps frequently until you're sure 8 minutes won't fry the motor.
  • Quote: I prefer a receiver pack, but they are a pain, I haven't found one that will go a whole day without needing to be charged. That said, the TQ booster works great, just slightly lower voltage. The Protoform AMR is the body for !/12TH, but the new Black Art Mohawk is gaining a lot of converts. See what your competition is using.
    Thanks for the advise. The track has never run 1/12 before so we are all at the same disadvantage. I'm trying to piece together everything I need, and slowly getting ready for the upcoming season.
  • I've run both bodies and like them both.

    For the motor temps -- don't wait until you've run 8 minutes, of course (check it after a couple minutes of solid running...).
  • Quote: This season will be my first running 1/12 and I have a few questions. Our track is fairly small with medium grip carpet and we will be running 13.5 blinky. I'm planning on using a Tekin RS and was wondering what are the pros and cons between using a booster vs. a receiver pack? What would be a good neutral handling body to get started with?
    I prefer the booster as I only have one charger and dont want to buy another to charge the rec pack. I've run the TQ booster as well as the cheap $10 booster form China that Stormer sells. Both have performed well, in fact just this yr I had to retire my first TQ unit which I bought 5yrs ago. As Lonnie said the AMR is a solid well rounded shell but if you feel like experimenting I'd suggest back to back runs with one of the CRC and a Speed8 HD shells. By running the three shells back to back you would get a good feel for the way each handles. Just an observation, if possible you might want to consider 17.5 vs 13.5, it might be easier to lay down better lap times on your small med grip track with the 17.5.

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