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Also on a side note, when I bought my first 1/12th car the shop owner told me that most of the guys used Trinity's red stuff and white stuff, but she wasn't sure of where they used it??? know from testing experience that the red stuff / automotive bearing grease is a bit too thick for the dampertubes on asphalt!!LOL:nod: :nod:
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Originally posted by racerdx6 I haven't had any problems with my new edition front JACO rims being wobbly. Mabey yours just need to be retrued. But that would only make a difference if the tire was wobbly and not the rim. Mabey you could send yours back and get some new ones :confused: . Not only that, but they get wobbly, especially around the inner bearing. |
Originally posted by IMPACTPLAYR Just incase I need to look at other routes what weight shock oil would the Losi light and medium hydra fluids be close to?? Or is there other suitable fluids/lubes that will have about the same sticktion prperties and last a little longer than shock oil ( damper tubes seem to need relubed after each run for maximum consistancy when using shock oil) How often do most of you Speedmerchant drivers need to rebuild/relube your damper tubes... Thanks agian... I run the CK, I clean and relube my damper tubes every 3 race days, 15 runs. |
Originally posted by newracer I have heard that the oils used for tuning 1/8th buggy diffs can be used. 5000wt is supposed to be close to the medium hydradrive fluid. E |
Damper Lube
Corally makes a nice silicone lube also. Losi is still the best if you can get it. MAke sure you don't use the waxy stuff, it doesn't work as well. Good luck.
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1/12 New Car from Atsushi-Hara
We finished 1 / 12 Japan championships at last this week. Atsushi Hara used his prototype car. Although it was not a 1st place, Atsushi Hara ranked 2nd. According to him, this kit will be put on the market soon. Pics and movie were uploaded to my page.
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hello, i am running (or at least i will be eventually) a Reedy Krypton 10x2 in a 12scale. my question is what sort of timing would you champs recomend. it came stanard (at zero deg) but i think that more might be better. anyways, please give me your thoughts.
we run on an asphalt outdoor track, that has quite a long straight, and no really slow corners. i run an associated rc12l3. so please give me your thoughts . it currently has a 21pinion 75? (i think) spur. sorry if this was too general.. |
IMPACT- Who was running the body? If a newbie who finds it impossible to take the straighaway without turning in the middle is running a yok body, while josh cyrul is running and ascari, of course the ascari will look hooked up. Also you want to set your car up so it works with the body. The ascari (in lightweight trim, which ALL YOU EVER RUN FOR 12th, is actually very durable), however it has too much front grip for asphalt, so while it wont be undrivable, the car wont feel right, and could cause unwanted mistakes, since it will be hard to drive consistnatly.
On asphalt, you can NEVER have enough rear traction, and thats one thing that the yok body has. if you start to push, add front grip, dont take away rear grip. Also the yok body is rather durable (its more a of middle weight body with flexable lexan, no matter what they label it as). I am not a pro-line driver, so I am just passing on what I have learned to help out. carbon- A 10 double KR is alot of motor. All of the Reedy guys have actually been running the Ti in 12th scale (dont ask me why, but just an FYI). Also by the way you described it, it seems as if you are running 48 pitch gears. Pick up some 64 pitch ones. Try a 100 tooth spur, and pinions from 25-30. Also if you have no yet, run a stock motor first, it wont be as slow as you think, and it will be alot more driveable. |
I have a question about my Ascari body. I was looking at my friends 12th scale body (I think either a Parma or a Yokomo) and there are two small rectangular cut outs in the rear wing. When I was looking at my Ascari I noticed those two spots also, but they were not cut out. So I'm wondering if I should cut those out or not? Do you guys have any idea how that would change the hangling of my car? Thanks
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stormperson, thanks for the info :)
i will chase up some 64p gears, i only used 48 coz thats what i had from my touring collection. I have tried a 16x2 and lost alot on the straight bits.. thats the reason for teh fat horsepower. but i will take ur info, and will give it a go. thanks, i really appreciate any information. :nod: :nod: Rob Storey |
stormperson, you might remember trying to convince me to get a 4 cell car for a tiny track a while back. I found a good deal on a 2nd hand CK on ebay so I should be set for the coming championship. Just need to pick up some more pinions, a body or two, an extra pack of 33s and possibly some more tires (purple/grey never worked with 6 cell)
I remember that you said a 19 turn would work on the track, but other people are saying a 12 turn would be a better option. What sort of roll-out should I start with on such a small track with a 12x2 (b/c i have one lying around)? Any other upgrades I should get while I'm at it? |
ROAR rules prohibit the cut out of any part of the body except to clear the wheels and the antenna. The cutouts you say were for aerodynamic reasons. Those would not be allowed at a ROAR sanctioned race.
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Originally posted by davidl ROAR rules prohibit the cut out of any part of the body except to clear the wheels and the antenna. The cutouts you say were for aerodynamic reasons. Those would not be allowed at a ROAR sanctioned race. |
davidl: When was that rule enacted? As I recall the old Proto Peugeot 905, The McAllister Intrepid, The Andy's Nissan 300ZXGTP, (the original LOLA based Nissan, not the NPT90 like the AE), and the Bud's NPT90 all had sections marked off that could be removed to simulate the seperate section of the rear wing for the sake of realism. The AE Nissan also had a provision for trimming out the front fender well outlets to vent air from the fender well, just like the real car. I personally know of at least two MAJOR drivers who ran the AE body with the wheel well outlets cut out, and the Peugeot with the wing details removed, at ROAR events. And I ran the McAllister with the Wing detail removed at either the 90 or 91 region 5 champs. Not trying to start anything, just looking for clarification.
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I also just wonder why they have area's marked there to remove a section if it's actually illegal :confused: ? Oh well, the first ascari body I ran (and now its very much broken :sweat: ) I didn't cut those out and I liked how it handled. Here's another question I have about the ascari, does anyone know if this body is actually based on a real car???? If it is, can anyone post some pictures of the car for all to see. That would be really great. Thanks :) .
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