1/12 forum

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  • I checked the bearings just now (as well as at the race because I brought a tube of ten) and it isn't the bearings. I have run different tires and still have had the same prob. I have cut tires between runs before to try and make sure they were all the same size. I think I will pick up some 18 guage this weekend and try that. It seems to be the only thing that makes sense. The only other pan cars I ever ran was 10th oval in 93 & 94. Can't say if they would have done the same thing because you don't spend too much time turning right anyway, I was just wondering if you guys notice your cars favoring the right while cornering and accellerating. I figured if you guys run alot of 12th scale and could tell me if it is a characteristic of all pan cars because of diff location.
  • Make sure that nothing is binding in the front end. the dynamic strut is known for having alot of problems. so makes sure that the arms drop under their own weight (with the king pin off) and also that the king pin doesnt bind at all.

    the wires would add a slight bit of preload, but its pretty much negligable with 14 gauge. from what you said it wasnt clear if this car was a parts car or not, if it is, make sure the holes are for a 12l3 not the oval car, since your t-bar might be off center or something.

    also have the local 12th scale drivers check it out, since you might of build sometihng wrong possibly without knowing it.


    and defently roll the car without a motor in it and see if it does it then.
  • What I figured was if a car I threw together from spare parts was really good, imagine what a brand new one would be like. This car is a brand new 12l3 road car. So it has all of the correct stuff on it. I am sure the problem I am having is staring me right in the face and I just don't see it yet. Experience has tought me, somtimes the harder you look, the harder the problem is to see. Thanks for the help guys. I will defiately revisit the front end and check for bindage.
  • Thanks for rollout advice, my fellow 12th scale racers...

    too bad more people don't run 6 cell mod... talk about training your reflexes!

    I'll post some vids very soon... it might convince some of you to give it a try... With 8th scale onroad, it's the ultimate RC adrenalin rush!

    Later
    Paul

    PS: Muffin... no veering to the right on my car... sorry... But the wires putting constraints on the rear pod is a classic indeed... good luck with your troubleshooting!
  • muffin: Change the T-bar. Put a fresh T-bar on the car and be very careful when you put the tweak screws in it. I spent alot of time driving 12L's before the advent of "t-bar free"" cars, and if I had an issue like that, it was almost always the T-bar. I'd put 16 guage motor leads on, and fresh T-bar, and then try it.
  • Thanks for the help guys. I am going to work on the car tonight. I will let you know what I come up with when the problem disappears. Art
  • I'm going to order my stuff for my car tonight. I'm still having trouble trying to find the Kimbrough small Airtronics servo saver. Would the Kimbrough mid sized servo saver fit the servo gear? Or is it still to big? I think it might fit the CK because the servo mounts put the servo up in the air a little bit. How many splines does the 94145 have? Would any servo saver that has the same amount of splines as the servo fit it? Thanks!
  • New Associated 12th car??
    I have read some reports on the net that a new Associated 1/12th car is on the horizon. I also hear this car will include many IRS parts up to and including the Rug Rat 4-cell chassis and dual side dampeners they offer as a conversion for the 12L3.

    Has anyone else heard this or anything similar? I would like to get my hands on a new car from Associated for the fall instead of updating my current car with the IRS conversion.

    Thanks in advance

    Bob Zahn
  • Last I heard was IRS releasing their own car, with all the IRS parts, including side dampers, big diff, rug rat chassis, and adjustable roll centre front pivots.

    That was a while ago, though.
  • Re: Retro
    Quote:
    Originally posted by THEBIGBULL
    DX6

    Retro,old school, and old style , I'm sure are all the old style associated front suspension. Like the origial 12LW and 1/10 associated pancars. If you look closely at the different pictures on CRC or Speed Merchant web site you can see the difference. I swithched from an L3 last winter to a carpet knife. I wanted to try something different (SICK OF TAPING BATTERIES), and I bought The Boody Knife(THe RED EYE CANDY I HAD TO HAVE). Get the XTRA shock and tweek springs right away. What I really liked was being able to see and feel the difference in handling when you make changes in the spring selection. Now that I have the"BK" I wanted to try the REV3. I can fax you the set up sheet for the Rev3. and also a picture of the old school front end (from an old associated manual. I don't have the technology to E mail it. But if you Give me the area code and a fax # Ican send it to you. I am going to Shoogoo the servo in, for a start. Get the small Kimbrough servo saver. The one that was posted on the forum looks like the rite one. I have been racing 1/12 for years and have never stripped any servo gears (But have broken many servo savers.) The single REV3 sheet I have tells you how to align the servo properly.

    Terry
    what differences occur as you change the side springs and the VCS shock springs? thanks...
  • My opinion
    Changing the center spring stiffer seems to add high speed steering by a lot. Low speed steering goes away too.

    Too stiff of a center spring will make the car fly (literally) over bumps like its a spring board.. So when the going gets rough, I need a softer center spring.

    Softer center spring also helps rear traction.


    Side springs seem to chang how the car reacts to turning in. Stiffer springs make turn in quicker and the car more twitchy.

    I use the white side springs most of the time and don't mess with them too much. I change the center spring acording to track conditons AND my driving for that day. I use Red, Copper and sometimes CRC stiff. These are .045", .047" and .050" diamater wire. Mostly Copper. I do not know what Black Associated spring is in Diamater. Maybe some one could measure it for me.

    This is on a CRC carpet knife with NO T-Bar.

    David Root
  • i remember seeing some people on the board running mtroniks m3 esc in there 12th cars. can you tell me what punch setting you use for your 4cell mod. i will be using the esc first time on saturday and would like a starting point cos i wont have much time to get it set up.
    thanks alot.
  • servo saver
    dx6-
    Hobby Etc has the small servo saver. I'm sure many other suppliers do also if you look hard enough.

    By the way, with the old style front end you should mount the servo flat, and with the new style mount it at an angle for the correct geometry.
    O'D
  • Re: My opinion
    Quote:
    Originally posted by David Root
    Changing the center spring stiffer seems to add high speed steering by a lot. Low speed steering goes away too.

    Too stiff of a center spring will make the car fly (literally) over bumps like its a spring board.. So when the going gets rough, I need a softer center spring.

    Softer center spring also helps rear traction.


    Side springs seem to chang how the car reacts to turning in. Stiffer springs make turn in quicker and the car more twitchy.

    I use the white side springs most of the time and don't mess with them too much. I change the center spring acording to track conditons AND my driving for that day. I use Red, Copper and sometimes CRC stiff. These are .045", .047" and .050" diamater wire. Mostly Copper. I do not know what Black Associated spring is in Diamater. Maybe some one could measure it for me.

    This is on a CRC carpet knife with NO T-Bar.

    David Root
    thanks a lot.. will experiment as soon as i get batts for my carpet knife...

    the white side springs are the ones that came with the red edition?

    also, does it matter if you use a standard or micro servo? as far as handling is concerned?
  • Re: Re: My opinion
    Quote:
    Originally posted by highwayman
    also, does it matter if you use a standard or micro servo? as far as handling is concerned?
    It will change the weight distribution; on a light 1/12 car, that will make a difference. A heavier servo will move weight forward, this will do a couple of things, Im not sure exactly. I suspect it will make the car tend to push, but Im not 100% sure.

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