well just based on battery layout the 4 cell ck will transition through the infield better because the cells are positioned closer to the chassis centerline, but it would depend on your overall setup as well.

i would go for the bloody knife out of those two, however i would suggest the rev. 3 over the knife (although they are similar there are some important differences)

front end: the old style front end included with the rev. 3 is just plain faster on carpet, and weighs less.

chassis: the knife has cut out in the back of the chassis that allow it flex where you dont want it, and espically on a tight track you dont want any chassis flex since it will kill your transitioning.

Rear end: the rev. 3 uses adjustable turnbuckle side links which are alot smoother and more consistant than the knife's, which are taken from the bellcrank of an AE offroad car. Also the knife's links are so high off the chassis that it really throws off handling (way to high roll center).

In stock these things arent as big (yet there is still a difference), but in mod its much more noticable.

The six pack doesnt have the these problems (while it does still have the new style front end, some people prefer it for mod), just make sure you dont run the side springs and the t-bar. however a t-bar car is a real pain, and in mod when you hit something you are basically going to break the t-bar, which is a mute issue on the rev. 3 since there is no t-bar.

spaz456/stormperson - thanks for you replies...the reason i listed the CRC kits is because that's the only 12th scale available locally....i was thinking along the same lines that the CK should have better transition due to battery layout and tweak springs

stormperson - what do you mean when you said "just make sure you dont run the side springs and the t-bar"??

ian-no prob although stormperson made some very good points. i am just a newbee when it comes to 12th scale lol. he helps me a ton.

stormperson-on my carpet knife i should able to lower the rear roll center by shimming the ball studs on either end on the side damper tubes right?

Ian- sorry i didnt make this clear (i got lazy towards the end, lol), on the 6 pack, you can run side springs like on a knife or rev. 3, however do not, just run the t-bar.

spaz- if you want to lower your roll center then get rid of the stock side links and get some speedmerchant ones. the problem with the CRC ones is that 1, they arent adjustable in the links (just at the rear pivot, so if you hit something there is a much better chance of it getting readjusted, and also the pivots on the crc just dont pivot well). also the ballstud is much higher up off of the chassis. there is no other way you can mount the stock CRC side links than with the stock, high up in the air, ball studs. the merchant ones are captured links (so they can use a ball mounted very close to the chassis) and also the roll center is adjustable, however i personally run in the stock location, although to be honest i have yet to try the low roll center option.

ok cool ill check them out on their site, or do they stock anything like that at big boys toys?

big boys should have it, and when you come down on sunday i will help you out and get it all worked out.

ok cool i just need the addy of the mall so i can get the online directions my friend doesnt remember lol.

Roll center change.
 

The Low Roll center position on the Speedmerchant is an option for Mod racing, and rarely used by mod drivers!!! I believe it adds rear traction. You want rear traction in a 12th scale-but its still not used very often by anybody.
I own the LRC cones to do it-but never have experimented with it.
Its too much work for the gains it might provide.

I have used the lower roll center option from Speedmerchant in modified and Scott Jakes used it in stock. We both ran faster with the stock roll center that the car comes with. There isn't any issue of lack of traction or anything like that. The higher roll center is just faster on the track as it lets the car rotate better.

You might consider the lower roll center option for paved tracks. I haven't tested that theory, but it may help there.

hi

i know practice makes you a better driver......i was just wondering if there's any tips or pointers in driving a pancar

thanks

have very smooth throttle inputs

I have to say I ran 12th scale for the 1st time this past weekend (NORRCA Carpet Nats) and it was some of the most fun i've had in this hobby. it was a blast chasing the setup as traction came up and i really look forward to doing it again real soon. i originally wanted to do it as a "filler" class at larger events, but i think it will be much more than that in the future. I ran a CRC Bloody knife 3.1 that a good friend borrowed me and it was hooked up and fast (6th overall in A main). I am looking at getting a Rev3 in the near future and look forward to bumming you guys for some tips. I don't know why more people dont run 12th scale. :D

Hey Barber if you wanna give me a couple hundred bucks i'll run 12th scale w/ you at trackside :D

Normally in 12th stock you only let off the throttle for very short periods of time and then get back right on it, but in mod, just like in mod sedan you have to be smooth.

however IMO, 12th scale is much easier to drive than sedan since the car goes exactly where you want it, and you dont have to fight with the car.

on aspault though you have to be much smoother, both with steering and throttle.